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  1. #1
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    list your favorite fix for common disk brake problems

    this will become the bible for disk brake problems for 2008

  2. #2
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    my problem: my magura martas were ok when i initially bled, but then would lose power over the first 2-3 rides

    solution: warranty master cylinders!!!! yay!!!!

    no but really, the most important thing i've ever done to get power out of my brakes besides replace faulty pieces was to face my disc tabs.

  3. #3
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    Reputation: scottzg's Avatar
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    problem = brake fluid on pads
    solution = 20 minutes in the oven @ 450

    problem = too much free throw
    solution = squeeze levers once w/o rotor in there

    problem = hfx9 little plastic bleed cap fell out (happened with both levers)
    solution = replace with cable caps
    Hell is eternally climbing manzanita trail on your singlespeed.

  4. #4
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    this is going to get real good.....

  5. #5
    bump and grind
    Reputation: cobym2's Avatar
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    Avid BB7 Emergency parking brake/lock (When you absolutely must have to leave your bike alone for a minute or two but you forgot to bring a bike lock) - turn the pad adjuster knobs all the way in till the brake pads lock up the wheels. Chances are, the thief will not know how to undo it, and if he does, it will take some time before he can take off with your bike.

  6. #6
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    Consult the disc brake FAQ.

    Reset your pistons before installing new pads.

    If the pistons will not completely push back into the bores the system may be overfilled. Level out the lever, open the bleed port on the lever and then reset the pistons.

    If your lever is squishy or inconsistent inspect for leaks, wet spots, etc and then bleed.

    If the lever pulls too far you can overfill the system or pump out the pistons.

    Avid and Formula need a bleed kit to bleed the brakes.

    If your rotor rubs after removing and reinstalling the wheel it's because the wheel isn't sitting in the dropouts exactly as it had before. Center the caliper.

    If the rotor rubs intermittently, the rotor needs to be trued.

    If the rotor rubs constantly, the caliper needs to be centered.

    If you pulled the lever without something between the pads, reset the pistons.

    If the brake is new, performance will improve after the bedding process.

    There are many different pad compounds.

    If the brake howls, make sure there is no contamination (clean rotor, replace pads if necessary), check all mounting hardware for torque, check spokes for looseness, check hubs and pivots for play.

  7. #7
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
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    Use feeler gauges between pads & rotor for centering caliper & adjusting lever free play.
    Formotion Products
    http://www.formot

  8. #8
    nnn
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    Issue : Avid BB7 have too much/too little power/modulation

    [Fix] : Moving inboard (spoke side) adjuster knob to bring the inner pad closer to rotor increases 'snappyness' and power but may make the brakes a bit too twitchy.

    *Use outboard board to adjust contact and inboard to adjust feel.

    (!!!) Always make sure you onlt take off cable slack, do not use lever barell adjustment to compensate for pad wear.

  9. #9
    ...idios...
    Reputation: SteveUK's Avatar
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    "Use feeler gauges between pads & rotor for centering caliper & adjusting lever free play."

    Feeler gauges are an excellent way to perfectly center a rotor, but you should be doing this with the pads removed.
    .
    .


    What luck for rulers, that men do not think - Adolf Hitler

  10. #10
    wyrd bi ful rd
    Reputation: chinaman's Avatar
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    Dilemma: Brake fade towards the end of long descent (5X)
    Solution: Replace brakes

    Dilemma: Leak between hose fittings and caliper
    Solution: Get correct fittings

    Dilemma: Rivet on rotor rubs on caliper
    Solution: File the area on the caliper down (helps that the caliper are silver in colour)

    Dilemma: Spongy feel to levers
    Solution: Bleed brakes

    Dilemma: Slight warp of rotor
    Solution: Use fingers to bend rotor the other way

    Dilemma: Rubbing of rotors
    Solution: Realign calipers

    Dilemma: Rubbing of rotors
    Solution: Realign calipers

    Realignment of calipers occurs a bit more often ...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman

    Dilemma: Slight warp of rotor
    Solution: Use fingers to bend rotor the other way
    I think using anything but fingers would be a better way to go. Don't want to get your greasy hands all over your rotors. Don't use a hot dog to bend the rotors either.

  12. #12
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    Problem: Brakes won't lock up (after proper bleed, alignment of caliper, etc.)
    Solution: Wipe your rotors with a degreaser (e.g. acetone)

  13. #13
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    Draggy brakes in the cold, spread out pads with a knife blade.

  14. #14
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    If you transport your bike without the wheels fitted,fit a pad spacer.
    Don't touch your rotor braking surface
    If you half use a bottle of brake fluid,squeaze the bottle and remove all the air, then put the cap on.

    [SIZE="4"]Keep your fingers away from the rotors[/SIZE]

    Stay off the brakes

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriffer
    Don't use a hot dog to bend the rotors either.


    unless you've just finished a 45 minutes downhill and want to char them up a bit...

  16. #16
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    Ouch.

  17. #17
    I can't weld
    Reputation: Indiefab's Avatar
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    Tired of the housing rubbing into your aluminum fork crown or magnesium slider bridge?

    Find some Token Power Hooks on the web. Got mine on Ebay, don't see any there now.


  18. #18
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    how did you losse the tip of your finger....thats what I want to know

  19. #19
    Team Awesome
    Reputation: playpunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29ERCAT
    how did you losse the tip of your finger....thats what I want to know
    not from a disc brake rotor, that's for sure.

  20. #20
    OSCMTB
    Reputation: Berkley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by playpunk
    not from a disc brake rotor, that's for sure.
    Excessive nail-biting, perhaps?

  21. #21
    Team Awesome
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkley
    Excessive nail-biting, perhaps?
    lawnmower. that's how my granddad did it -- didn't want to waste time re-starting the mower, ya know.

  22. #22
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    Thats not my finger it is Tims from On-One
    To quote Tim
    "Just a quick piece of advice for you fellow bikers. Be careful when youre messing with disc brakes, even if you have done it 100's of times like me. I now have 9.8 digits!!
    I had the unpleasant experience of losing the end of my left index finger on Monday night while setting the brakes up on one of my bikes. I spun the wheel to check the disc wasn't rubbing on the pads but didn't get my finger out of the way soon enough and 'CHOP', off came the end of my finger inc bone too. The picture shows how much i have lost, but it does look lots tidier after the plastic surgeons have cleaned it up and 'nibbled' the bone back into the flesh of the finger (under local anesthetic!!) so it with grow back around the end of my finger.
    So it's no bikes for me for quite sometime. I'm hoping to be riding for Mayhem but we'll have to see how it heals first."

    I have have nearly done the same despite trying to be careful (I just lost a nail)

    Take care
    Stay off the brakes

  23. #23
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    Problem: Incessant gobbling and squealing from Juicy 7's.

    Solution: Replace with Formula K24's.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indiefab
    Tired of the housing rubbing into your aluminum fork crown or magnesium slider bridge?

    Find some Token Power Hooks on the web. Got mine on Ebay, don't see any there now.

    My Marz 66 and 888 bottom out all the way at the crown and would crush that thing. Not a good idea to put it on the stachion.

    I'm sorry, what were we talking about? Brakes? I actually have an interesting issue. On my Sunday, I run Juicy 7's. On the front brake, the disc is really ridiculously close (and sometimes rubs) on the caliper. I've pushed back the pads and loosened the caliper bolts to "reset" the setting, but the pads/cylinders do not come back centered again, they go back to being really close to the caliper. Anyone else heard of this? Got a solution?
    Biker? I don't even know her.

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