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  1. #1
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    Light'n cheap mech setup ?

    My brother would consider switching to disc this summer on his XC bike, mostly for the braking control improvement and not have to worry about mud holes and such.

    He don't have much money and don't want to add much weight either.

    My first thought would be to get a 160mm BB5 MTB front and a 140mm same for rear, sell the rotors and get those Aishima light ones. BB5 can be had for about $30 a kit, rotors for about $30 for both, and by selling back the stock rotors, it could be pretty cheap. I think BB5 over the BB7 because they are lighter and cheaper. Then add about $15 for a good set of brake housing and Teflon coated cables and this could be it. Then maybe some SD 7 levers later on.

    What would be your pick ? Would you go another way in caliper selection or rotor ? Let us know
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  2. #2
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    If he is using V Brakes he can use the same levers and just get the brakes themselves. And save the hassle and get the BB7s you can find them used pretty easily and cheap. I have made the mistake of getting a set of BB5s to save some cash with already having a BB7 setup but I immediately sold them for a used set of BB7s.

    Alligator Round Rotor at Price Point
    This is a good rotor I use them on my cross bike and they are pretty light.
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  3. #3
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    I also bought bb5s to save money. They work fine if adjusted properly but need adjusting at least once a week. And I've never got mine without rubbing so that's another issue. I would just get bb7 front and bb5 rear.

  4. #4
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    You know the answer: BB7 is pretty the best mech set up available on the market now, even if it's a few grams heavier I'd still go for it.

  5. #5
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    Trying to avoid the BB7 is just not worth it.
    When under pressure, your level of performance will sink to your level of preparation.


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885 View Post
    You know the answer: BB7 is pretty the best mech set up available on the market now, even if it's a few grams heavier I'd still go for it.
    I know. But it's not my money
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I know. But it's not my money


    Its not mine either, BB7.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS View Post
    Its not mine either, BB7.
    That's what I keep telling him.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #9
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    Just do hydros

    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    My brother would consider switching to disc this summer on his XC bike, mostly for the braking control improvement and not have to worry about mud holes and such.

    He don't have much money and don't want to add much weight either.

    My first thought would be to get a 160mm BB5 MTB front and a 140mm same for rear, sell the rotors and get those Aishima light ones. BB5 can be had for about $30 a kit, rotors for about $30 for both, and by selling back the stock rotors, it could be pretty cheap. I think BB5 over the BB7 because they are lighter and cheaper. Then add about $15 for a good set of brake housing and Teflon coated cables and this could be it. Then maybe some SD 7 levers later on.

    What would be your pick ? Would you go another way in caliper selection or rotor ? Let us know
    No such thing as a light mech disc brake.

    You're going to easily add 1.5 pounds to a v-brake bike by adding cable disc brakes.

    Hydros typically weigh less and have better modulation anyway.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    No such thing as a light mech disc brake.

    You're going to easily add 1.5 pounds to a v-brake bike by adding cable disc brakes.

    Hydros typically weigh less and have better modulation anyway.
    Thanks, but price is not low and maintenance can get long sometimes.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Thanks, but price is not low and maintenance can get long sometimes.
    $68 / wheel for the Deore brakes is not too bad at all....

    Shimano Deore Disc Brake M596 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkj__ View Post
    $68 / wheel for the Deore brakes is not too bad at all....

    Shimano Deore Disc Brake M596 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com
    Meh, I prefer to get good hydro rather the cheap ones personally.

    And no, this do not apply to the BB5 topic. Don't mix mech and hydro. Cheap mech are weak. Cheap hydro are annoying.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    No such thing as a light mech disc brake.
    Depends.

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    You're going to easily add 1.5 pounds to a v-brake bike by adding cable disc brakes.
    That's true for going from V-brake to hydraulic as well.

    Back to the depends...

    I've got Alligator Windcutter rotors 160mm r/140mm rear. These rotors cost me about $14 for the front and $20 for the rear. So my Avid Mechanical brakes are "tuned" by purchasing lighter rotors than what come stock with the Avid calipers in the box. So my cost increased $34 for purchasing the lighter rotors.

    My front Avid Mechanical brake weighs (160mm windcutter rotor, CPS and rotor bolts, mounting hardware, caliper, pads): 313g

    My rear Avid Mechanical brake weighs (140mm windcutter rotor, CPS and rotor bolts, mounting hardware, caliper, pads): 281g

    I use the Avid Ultimate Levers which weigh 152g for the pair.

    I use Jagwire Ripcord housing with Jagwire black teflon coated cables. Front and rear housing/cable runs combined is 98g (one FS bike is 109g due to sort of obtuse routing).

    front 313 + rear 281 + levers 152 + cables/housing 98 = 844g

    Find me a hydraulic for the same cost that weighs the same.

    An example.

    Let's take a very popular hydraulic disc brake - the Shimano XT.

    Shimano XT Disc M775 front: 287g + rotor (let's say it is the same Alligator windcutter as above - 160mm which is 92g, plus the bolts - 14g)

    That's 393g for the front.

    Shimano XT Disc M775 rear: 301g + rotor (let's say it is the same Alligator windcutter as above - 140mm which is 60.5g, plus the bolts - 14g)

    That's 375.5g for the rear.

    Combined would be 393 + 375.5 = 768.5

    Only 75g less than my BB7's with the same rotors. And there are lighter brake levers than what I use (Paul's Love Levers 125g a pair, Extralite 64g a pair, KCNC 46g a pair, etc...).

    No need to cherry pick, but Sicklines.com has a nice list of hydraulic brake caliper/hose/lever weights (you have to add the rotor and rotor bolts weight to get the whole picture).

    You could find examples - using the same Alligator Windcutter rotors and bolts if you like, of lighter, equal and even heavier hydraulics than the Avid BB7's.

    Anyway - just some food for thought.

  14. #14
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    Good examples. Plus you can shave some weight off the calipers by filling and milling. Up to 30g per caliper.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  15. #15
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    The BB7's are far superior, can be set up to be a great brake that will last him for many excellent rides and you specc'ed budget, so here's the bang-for-the-buck package (as opposed to the cheapass solution):

    --BB7, used, f/r go 140 rear if you find a mixed set on the 'bay
    --SS7 brake levers
    --Jagwire teflon coated cables, and new housings
    --Alligator serrated (windcutter) rotors, from Price Point on sale
    --new pads if you go used, to match with the new rotors

    Boom you're done and he's dialed in.

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