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  1. #1
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    Juicy Ultimate caliper won't stay centered

    I've about had it with my Juicy Ultimate front caliper. I can't go much more than one good ride now without having to re-center my caliper. This is my second season on theses brakes and as far as I can remember it has always been an issue. The bolts are TIGHT, the rotor is true, and I can start with the caliper perfectly centered over the rotor, with no rubbing whatsoever, but after a normal amount of breaking my caliper has moved to the point that my rotors are rubbing. I've tried everything I know to do, re-orienting the pads, changing the pads, truing the rotor. The mounts are new, and I can't see any cracks in them. The back caliper has been great.

    Any ideas? Are the titanium bolts the culprit? Should I switch to standard alloy? Loctite them?

    TIA

  2. #2
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    How is your quick release? Tight enough?

    I was using some weight weenie skewers and I found that over the course of my ride the wheel would slightly shift and the pads would rub. I would re-do my front qr and the rub was gone. Changed to some beefier skewers and problem solved.

    Ti bolts should be ok, but I would loctite them. By alloy, do you mean steel or aluminum?

  3. #3
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    It could be the skewer. If the bolts are too tight, it can cause the CPS washers to pit and distort. This could cause misalignment issues.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by civil
    How is your quick release? Tight enough?

    I was using some weight weenie skewers and I found that over the course of my ride the wheel would slightly shift and the pads would rub. I would re-do my front qr and the rub was gone. Changed to some beefier skewers and problem solved.

    Ti bolts should be ok, but I would loctite them. By alloy, do you mean steel or aluminum?
    Civil - I was running Salsa skewers for awhile but they weren't keeping things tight up front so I switched to DT Swiss ratcheting skewers which keep everything nice and tight, so I'm confident its not the wheel moving around in the dropouts. Guess I'll add a few drops of loctite. I was thinking alloy aluminum bolts but I"ll try the loctite first.

    XSL_WiLL - Not sure what you mean by CPS washers? Are you referring to the washers on either side of the caliper mounts? I've got the Ti bolts that hold the caliper to the post pretty tight, but I haven't put a torque wrench on them to get actual numbers.

    Thanks for the ideas.

  5. #5
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    The CPS are the conical spacers that avid uses on either side of the mounts.

    I would advise against using aluminum bolts in disc brake applications, especially for teh rotor bolts, use steel or Titanium.

  6. #6
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    CPS won't resolve all alignment issues, you sometimes need to shim the rotor or caliper or even modify the caliper. At least in my experience using a variety of frames, hubs and adapters with my Avid brakes. Mostly I can find the issues when setting them up, but sometimes only after riding for a while when they settle with braking forces.
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  7. #7
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    i am need of new pads... i typically just pay the LBS to handle these issues, but have found a new mission to learn how to do these things on my own. any recommendations on which pads to pick up?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tm29er
    i am need of new pads... i typically just pay the LBS to handle these issues, but have found a new mission to learn how to do these things on my own. any recommendations on which pads to pick up?
    Changing pads is easy enough, may as well do it yourself. I like the Avid metallic pads myself, tried a few other brands over the years but keep coming back to the Avid pads, work well, priced okay, available all over the place. The one other brand I did like was Galfer, but they're kind of a pain for me to source...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  9. #9
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    excuse my ignorance, but as i am searching online for a replacement, i notice that there are a few different options... i am assuming that juicy replacements are good for the whole juicy line (3,5, 7, ulimate)? also, is there any difference between the ultimate and elixir pads?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tm29er
    excuse my ignorance, but as i am searching online for a replacement, i notice that there are a few different options... i am assuming that juicy replacements are good for the whole juicy line (3,5, 7, ulimate)? also, is there any difference between the ultimate and elixir pads?
    Avid BB5, Elixir & Code brakes each use unique pads, BB7's and the Juicy lineup share the same pad.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  11. #11
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    thanks for the info!

  12. #12
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    Road a few short loops thru the woods behind my house today and centered my front caliper prior to the ride. After 10 minutes I have noticeable rotor drag. Re-centered caliper, tightened, road the same loop again. Caliper shifted again, enough that I have drag once more. Repeat process one more time and then put my bike away in disgust. I haven't added any loctite to the ti bolts yet, but they don't feel loose at all when I re-adjust. I'm annoyed. Wheel is tight, wondering if I need to bleed but can't imagine why that would make a difference... brakes have full power. Time for a new mount and hardwear.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by igere
    Road a few short loops thru the woods behind my house today and centered my front caliper prior to the ride. After 10 minutes I have noticeable rotor drag. Re-centered caliper, tightened, road the same loop again. Caliper shifted again, enough that I have drag once more. Repeat process one more time and then put my bike away in disgust. I haven't added any loctite to the ti bolts yet, but they don't feel loose at all when I re-adjust. I'm annoyed. Wheel is tight, wondering if I need to bleed but can't imagine why that would make a difference... brakes have full power. Time for a new mount and hardwear.
    Go back to the steel bolts, see if that makes a difference. What torque are you tightening the bolts to?
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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