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Thread: Juicy 7 problem

  1. #1
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    Juicy 7 problem

    I have been having this strange problem with my juicy 7's. the problem is there is all this play inside the lever every time i pull it in (feels like a spring or something that keeps tension on lever is buggred). this problem started off small then i decieded i would have a looksy this resulted in it becoming very bad took the lever out tried degreasing it cause it was prety clogged up. even with the pad contact in at full at this point the lever would enage very close to the bar. the way i resolved this was turning the grub screw? and moving the lever out. and now the main problem is i woke up this morning pulled the lever in, most of the play was gone but it returned very slowly but i could pull it straight into the bar and it didnt engage at all.

    Any help would be much apprciated because im stumped and didnt now were to turn so i hope this mtbr forum is a good place :P

  2. #2
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    Seems to me like maybe you need to bleed your brakes Did you bleed them after removing the lever? If you didn't you need to, sounds like you have air in the system.
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  3. #3
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    You buggered it up pretty bad their. Sounds like time for a master rebuild an lube along with a fluid flush. While your at it might just well do the caliper to.
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  4. #4
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    I'm having a problem with my 7's, too. I bent my rotor pretty bad, and was able to get it true enough to have one spot where it made a "whish" noise. The thing wouldn't get any straighter so I finally got annoyed and threw down the money on a replacement rotor.

    I put the replacement on over the weekend, and now the caliper won't center. The innermost pad is constantly dragging. I did some reading and tried a few of the tricks such as putting a business card under the side that's dragging and hitting the brake to center the caliper. This didn't work. Then I thought that maybe the caliper piston needed to be reset. From what I gathered, this should be as simple as pushing the pad with a screwdriver. No love there.

    These are my first set of hydros, so I don't yet have a full understanding of how they work and how to fix them. A lot of the articles I've found try to explain how to work on the brakes for multiple makes and models which really confused me. Anybody got anymore suggestions before I throw in the towel and take her to the shop?

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    sorry but which article are you recommending? I looked through and don't really see which applies.

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    Sounds a bit like the famous Avid sticky piston.
    You need to give the caliper a good clean - and then lube the seals.
    I've started using silicone lube rather than the drop of brake fluid I used to use.
    With the disc and pads safely out of the way, spray some onto the pistons - cycle the pistins carefully and then clean the excess off.
    Silicone lube keeps the rubber seals supple and stops them drying out and losing shape.
    This is usually the reason they start to drag on the piston body and give you uneven pad wear/disc rubbing.

    Hope it helps.

  8. #8
    Meh.
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    How do you reckon this has to do with a sticky piston? It sounds more like a bleed issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    How do you reckon this has to do with a sticky piston? It sounds more like a bleed issue.

    I think he's answering my question rather than the OP. I kind of high jacked this thread rather than starting another "my juicy 7's arent being juicy" thread.

    Credible: I'll have to give your suggestion a try.
    what do you mean by "cycle" the pistons?

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    Ah.......yes my mistake. Sorry about that...
    Ive answered the question of the hijacker rather than the original.......

    Vitale232: 'cycle the pistons' meant slowly squeeze the lever to get the piston extended - then push the pistons back into the caliper. Get the piston moving in and out a few times to get the lubricant to the seal.

    And Haro's problem sounds like it needs a bleed......

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr_ian_credible
    Sounds a bit like the famous Avid sticky piston.
    BINGO! This just happened to my brakes and it was a bad piston.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JackRabitt
    BINGO! This just happened to my brakes and it was a bad piston.

    Was it a similar procedure to what Ian_Credible described as far as fixing it?

  13. #13
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    Yupp, just about the same.

  14. #14
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    Haro

    Don't run with the pad adjustment at anything other than fully out. The adjustment doesn't move the pads 'in', what is does is increase the amount of lever travel before you get any 'bite'. I can't understand why anyone would want more lever travel. Then once you have it fully out adjust the grub screw to position the lever where you want it. I find this allows me to middle-finger brake and maintain the other three fingers on the grip. Pretty sure you need to bleed though after yourmessing. Good Avid vid on Youtube.

    Vitale

    I change rotors regularly and all I do is slacken both sets of bolts, (bracket to frame / caliper to bracket), squeeze the lever, tighten bracet to frame bolts then caliper to bracket bolts. Centralises everytime. Good advice given on the sticky piston

  15. #15
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    ok fella's did the bleed and it seemed like the banjo? was lose. so i think the seals have packed up

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    oh forget to add the lever still has some of the travel now its just not returning properly so any one have any ideas?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by haro x7 boi
    ok fella's did the bleed and it seemed like the banjo? was lose. so i think the seals have packed up
    O'tay fella sounds like you need to snug up the banjo.
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  18. #18
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    You would want to decrease/increase lever travel to set it so that you can get the levers to match. Also... ergonomics. You have more power and control when the levers squeeze closer to the bars.

  19. #19
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    and the bleed had all black **** in it from the seals so i just sent it away thanks for the help though

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