Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    74

    Juicy 5 mushy lever

    I've had an ongoing issue with the rear brake lever coming too close to the bars before biting. I've tried numerous bleeds using the proper kit with little improvement. I re.bled on wed but it made no difference. So i tried leaving the lever strapped to the bar and after trying it tonight the lever is perfect. However i know that within a ride it will go mushy again. Does this mean the system is drawing in air from somewhere ? Its only the back brake thats affected and i have tried new pads as well. I'm really stumped !

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    403
    I have the exact same problem. Bled 5 times, after each it seems ok until I actually ride it, when it goes to the bar again. Weird feeling of slight resistance in the lever pull also. It still works fine, just feels like crap. I followed the bleed kit instructions and also tried a diff. method from a SRAM YouTube video- same results. It's like I have a leak where air can get in but fluid can't get out. Annoying!

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    47
    Make sure the lever is fully retracting when released. The plunger has a fluid intake orifice that re-pressurizes the hydraulic line each time the lever is squeezed. If the lever reach is set too tight the fluid in the resevoir will not refill the line and get progressively soft.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    74
    Thanks folks. Xd - if it is the lever not retracting can I fix it ?

  5. #5
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Check around the pistons and fittings and along the line for leaks. Check that the caliper half bolts are torqued correctly.

    Tap and rotate the caliper and hose when bleeding to free up any stubborn bubbles.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    47
    The brake levers have an allen head adjuster screw which moves the lever closer to the handle bar to accommodate smaller reach fingers. Back this set screw out by half a turn to see if the problem continues.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cnewsome69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    25
    Robinta/Norton,

    Just curious but how old are your Juicy's? I've had an ongoing problem as well with my Juicy7s (only the front) and have tried everything suggested in this thread already.

    Mine are less than 2 yrs old but I was thinking it could be something worn in the lever or caliper (seals?) which are causing air to get in the line.

    In my case, its fine right after bleed but after some lever pulls the lever eventually just gets mushy and goes right to bar....

    Does anyone know what's involved to rebuild the lever and/or caliper?

    Thanks!
    cn
    '10 Santa Cruz BLTc
    2009 LOOK 585 Optimum

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    74
    Cn. My juicies are nearly 3 years old i think. (My 07). If i tie the lever to the bars overnight the firmness comes back but will have gone by the end of the next ride !

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cort's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    892
    In most cases these brakes have been improperly bleed from the factory. I have found that 30-50% of these brakes need to be re-bleed right off the showroom floor. This has been going on for about 2 years now, and IMHO SRAM needs to seriously address this issue once and for all.
    For those who have had the brakes longer than a year - make sure they are bleed once a year. DOT fluid is hydrophilic which causes poor braking issues down the road.

    RE: M/C rebuild. Very straight forward on most models. The little c-clip holding the push rod can sometimes be a ***** to remove from the M/C. There are two seals on the push rod assembly. The first (innermost) seal is usually the culprit for those who continually have spongy brakes even after the brake has been properly bleed. Of course do this step after all other steps have been exhausted
    Last edited by cort; 04-30-2009 at 06:07 PM.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    318
    yeah I just installed a pre-bleed juicy 5 setup on my bike and they are mushy as hell. Went a head and ordered a bleed kit.

  11. #11
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Quote Originally Posted by cnewsome69
    Robinta/Norton,

    Just curious but how old are your Juicy's? I've had an ongoing problem as well with my Juicy7s (only the front) and have tried everything suggested in this thread already.

    Mine are less than 2 yrs old but I was thinking it could be something worn in the lever or caliper (seals?) which are causing air to get in the line.

    In my case, its fine right after bleed but after some lever pulls the lever eventually just gets mushy and goes right to bar....

    Does anyone know what's involved to rebuild the lever and/or caliper?

    Thanks!
    cn
    Both are very easy. You'll need a small pick/awl. Some allen keys. A air compressor. And something to remove a c-clip. And of course DOT fluid.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    169
    To adjust the point where the pads contact the disc remove the caliper and pump the lever a few times. This will push the pistons in so that they are closer to the disc, reducing the amount of free travel in the lever.

  13. #13
    Go SOLAR...
    Reputation: larlev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,077
    Quote Originally Posted by xtreme-designs
    The brake levers have an allen head adjuster screw which moves the lever closer to the handle bar to accommodate smaller reach fingers. Back this set screw out by half a turn to see if the problem continues.
    This fixed my problem on my new stumpy....very good advice. The OP needs to try this. I have one lever with 3-4 threads showing, while the other has 1. I know it's uneven, but both levers are exactly the same.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    74
    Well after 6 months of hassle i've hopefully solved the problem. I've bought an elixir r rear. Rightly or wrongly i just could't justify more time messing about with this brake. It could turn out to be a wrong move. I'll update later ! Thanks to everyone who offered advice.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •