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  1. #1
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    Juicy 3 loss braking power

    I have a 4 month old 09 specialized fsr xc with avid juicy 3, my front and rear brakes doesn't brake as strong as when it was new. Its even getting harder to lock up the rear brakes when decending, I almost crashed because my brakes could not slow me down on time. I bled my brakes twice and it made no difference. Can anyone give me any suggestions, will this be covered under warranty. thanks guys.

  2. #2
    TNC
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    Still sounds like air in the system. What method and tools are you using to bleed them?

  3. #3
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    Or it's not the bleed and you contaminated your pads?
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  4. #4
    TNC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Or it's not the bleed and you contaminated your pads?
    Bikin, are you still running around town with that can of WD40 and dousing all the disc brake equipped bikes parked in sidewalk racks?

    Now that you mention it, since both front and rear brakes have lost power, it's not common for both brakes to need a bleed simultaneously...if it was somewhat simultaneous.

  5. #5
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    I used the avid bleed kit and bled the brakes until all air bubbles are gone. My pads or disc are definately not contaminated they never been ridden on mud or any wet environment. I pretty much done everything: sanded/filed the pads, sanded down the rotors=they are not glazed by the way. Brakes are properly bled and I have a firm brake lever, all the brake components are adjusted to specs.

  6. #6
    TNC
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    Oddly it's not really mud or water that contaminate disc brakes as a general rule. Oils, some chemicals, and some other substances...usually man-made...are what foul pads most of the time.

    In your case it's hard to tell. When brakes start losing power, and the pads and rotors are in good condition, it's "usually" air in the system. Of course there's always the possibility of a master cylinder problem, but you don't usually have both brakes lose performance in the same general time frame. I think that's why Bikin suggested the pad contamination. Hydro brakes are two separate units, and they don't "usually" have issues at the same time. You notice how I keep using the word, "usually"? Also your bike isn't old enough to have old fluid issues, hard seals, and other age related problems. Since yours is still under warranty, at least the shop should be able to shake out the problem.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the reply guys, I will have my lbs look at the brakes.

  8. #8
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    TNC now why would I sabotage other folks' disc brakes? I do have several disc-equipped bikes (including even one hydraulic set now remember). Since he didn't say anything about pads/rotor inspection/results I thought I'd throw the pad thing out there, seems more likely pad contamination would happen together than both brakes needing a bleed or developing other problems simultaneously.

    OP-- You did allow a new bed in period I assume? Has the lever feel or bite point etc changed with the loss of braking "power"? I did contaminate my discs once in mud, but figured it had some ORV oil in it...but many many other times no problem and heck, what's the point of disc brakes if you don't use 'em in the wet or mud? My v's (still have bikes with those, too) work great in the dry...

    You don't have a spare set of pads to throw in and see if that's it?
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  9. #9
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    Yes, I allowed a bed in period. The lever feel doesn't change when loosing brake power, it stays firm all they time and not spongy. When I removed the pads for inspection there were no signs of oil or grease it was dry with normal wear.

  10. #10
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    How about a pad switch?
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  11. #11
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    I've got these same brakes on a '09 Cdale F3 and they (also) have been acting funky. In my case, I only use the bike for quick 60/90 minutes training sessions on paved roads on Mt. Tam and the front brake would begin rubbing when heated up on long downhill descents which is not unusual (from what I've been told).

    I also experience front-end shutter when applying only the rear brake. This shudder was not apparent when I would engage the front brake first and then the rear but that is counter-intuitive (and potentially dangerous).

    I took the bike in to Sunshine in Fairfax who re-adjusted the front rotor which reduced the rubbing but the shudder is still problematic.

    Wondering if anyone has an idea what to do next? The rear feels a bit squishy so perhaps a bleed is in order? I've got ~750 miles (dry pavement) on the bike and there has been no contaniments around the pads...

    Thanks in advance for any feedback!
    David

    P.S. I hope that I am not hijacking the thread...
    Last edited by dyusem; 06-04-2009 at 01:15 PM.

  12. #12
    TNC
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    That shudder is probably the well known turkey gobble/vibration often mentioned here on some Avid hydros...often fixed by changing the OEM pads with another pad with different pad compounds and backing material. That's what fixed a set of Juicy 5's and Elixirs for me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNC
    That shudder is probably the well known turkey gobble/vibration often mentioned here on some Avid hydros...often fixed by changing the OEM pads with another pad with different pad compounds and backing material. That's what fixed a set of Juicy 5's and Elixirs for me.
    Thanks for the quick feedback, TNC. I read a bit of the turkey gobble megapost and it seems like most of that noise is from the rear brakes; the shudder on my bike is coming from the front-end. Nevertheless, I am going to point Sunshine to this thread (and the megapost) and let them figure it out because I've got two right thumbs and I will only make matters worse

    Cheers!

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