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  1. #1
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    Installing New Disc Brakes Help

    I just got the new Hope Mini Mono, I have never owned, ridden, disc brakes before, so I'm starting from scratch. Any advice on setting them up, how to shim them, how to ride them, how attach them to my bike, etc. Would be very helpful. If you have pictures that would be even better.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Disc seems to be warped

    Is this normal, bc I set up the brake, and it rubs on pats of the disc bc it is warped. What should I do? I just bought them?
    thanks

  3. #3
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    Pound the rotors with as much force as...

    j/k Read some here: http://www.mtbr.com/techtalks/brakes/brakesfaq.shtml

    You may need to work on the rotors if there's a bit of warp. No rotors stay 100% straight. Ever! A rag and crescent wrench will fix them fast and easily.

    Follow the Hope instructions, they are usually very good. Above all, if unsure, read and re-read instructions and ALWAYS PUT A RAG OVER THE CALIPERS/PADS when working on the brakes to avoid any contamination of the assembly with oil.

    Once you dial them in, you'll wonder whey you didn't do it sooner.

    Lastly, have a fair to good knowledge of how they work and should feel. Unlike a car, these need some awareness, don't just expect them to work, and recognition of problems that are starting that can cause a wreck or worse. That probably won't happen, but be aware that things can go wrong and that only you will recognize the symptoms?

    Good luck, Jim MCM #11

  4. #4
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    When I installed my mono minis I found there was a ton of space between the rotors and tha pads when the pads are fully retracted. Best plan is to center the caliper over the rotor with the pads fully retracted as that will give you the best chance of having things line up later on.

    Once centered squeeze the levers and get the pads moving. If you find one pad is closer to the rotor than the other push the rotor towards the piston that is too close and squeeze the levers, that will balance the fluid behind the pistons.

    Go ride... (they will need some bedding in)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonkiwi
    When I installed my mono minis I found there was a ton of space between the rotors and tha pads when the pads are fully retracted. Best plan is to center the caliper over the rotor with the pads fully retracted as that will give you the best chance of having things line up later on.

    Once centered squeeze the levers and get the pads moving. If you find one pad is closer to the rotor than the other push the rotor towards the piston that is too close and squeeze the levers, that will balance the fluid behind the pistons.

    Go ride... (they will need some bedding in)
    There isn't much room at all btwn the pads and rotor, in fact they rub even when fully retracted. I did squeeze the break levers a lot when I first got them, b4 the were installed. I realized that this was bad and pushed the pistons all the back. Now they still rub, there is barely any room at all.
    What should I do?

  6. #6
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    Don't worry, they're new

    Quote Originally Posted by piercebrew
    There isn't much room at all btwn the pads and rotor, in fact they rub even when fully retracted. I did squeeze the break levers a lot when I first got them, b4 the were installed. I realized that this was bad and pushed the pistons all the back. Now they still rub, there is barely any room at all.
    What should I do?
    Take them for a ride (assuming they are working OK), and after a few hours of hard use, they should be well bedded in. I think you will find the drag dissipates and all should be well. Drag is not supposed to be there, but is no uncommon at first.

    Jim

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by piercebrew
    There isn't much room at all btwn the pads and rotor, in fact they rub even when fully retracted. I did squeeze the break levers a lot when I first got them, b4 the were installed. I realized that this was bad and pushed the pistons all the back. Now they still rub, there is barely any room at all.
    What should I do?
    When fully retracted do both pads rub?? Do the pads contact the rotor evenly at both the top and the bottom of pads as well as at both ends?? there may be an alignment problem or perhaps you didn't fully retract the pads...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonkiwi
    When fully retracted do both pads rub?? Do the pads contact the rotor evenly at both the top and the bottom of pads as well as at both ends?? there may be an alignment problem or perhaps you didn't fully retract the pads...
    They don't completely rub but there is very little room on either side. The rotor is not perfectly true, which is dissapointing since I just bought them. How do you like yours?
    I just have the front right now, 180mm. I was thinking about getting the 140mm in the rear to save a little weight. What do you think?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by piercebrew
    They don't completely rub but there is very little room on either side. The rotor is not perfectly true, which is dissapointing since I just bought them. How do you like yours?
    I just have the front right now, 180mm. I was thinking about getting the 140mm in the rear to save a little weight. What do you think?
    I have the 160 up front and the 140 at the rear, I mostly did this so the front and rear calipers are interchangeable in the case of problems. The brakes perform well, I only have a few rides in but they feel very nice compared to previous B4pros and XT's.

    Bigger rotors are also harder to line up as any enevenness in the axel end will be amplified due to the larger rotor diameter.

    Now back to your problem. When my pads are fully retracted there is a LOT of space between the pads and the rotor, I'm guessing you could probaly retract them further than you are.

    As for the rotors not being true, that's pretty standard, even unbolting the rotors then reinstalling them can cause them to become untrue. Make sure to do the rotor bolts up evenly and in a criss cross pattern.

  10. #10
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    I took out the pads and pushed the pistons back as far as they will go. This gives me a lot of room, but as soon as I mount them again, and apply the brake, they go back to having about a .5mm of room, so even though the rotor is barely out of alignment, it rubs.
    What should I do?
    Thanks.

  11. #11
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    So long as the caliper is centered over the rotor with the pads retracted I'd say... go ride...

    The system will self adjust and the pistons will move more freely once everything gets heated up.

  12. #12
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    Be patient....they need some seasoning.

    These brakes can be a pain in the ass for about a month or two. They will undergo a break-in period in which you will find yourself re-centering and re-shimming the calipers over the rotors time and time again. And I don't think this is unique to Hope products....all new brakes do this to some degree or another. The good news is that all of this goes away with use. In fact, my Hope rotors too were a little warped, but that also cured itself with some wear. My only explanation is that I heat tempered the rotors during long descents and they straitened out themselves. At some point there should be NO rotor drag....if this persists for more than two or three months I'd start calling Hope or get your LBS to help you out.

    The most frustrating thing I experienced with my Mini's were sticking pistons due to caliper stiff seals. When I got my minis I worked the pistons in and out (with the pads and wheel removed) and lubed the pistons with brake fluid. This helped, but it took a couple of garage sessions to loosen up the seals enough so the pistons would fully retract. If you do this be careful not to push the pistons entirely out of the caliper body or else you'll be in for a big surprise. Also, the brake pad material can be rather thick and after a some long descents the rubbing should go away entirely. Every time I put new pads on there is always some rub for a couple of rides then it just goes away. Also, I found that if I rotate my pads from front to rear I get much longer, and more consistent wear on the pads. My rear brake pads seem to wear down more quickly than the front…I think this is because the rear of the bike is always muddier that the front….more dirt and debris gets splashed on the rear caliper for sure.

    In the end and once the calipers and rotors are well seasoned, these will be great brakes. They may not be the most powerful two piston brakes out there, but no other brake has the kind of linear modulation like Hope products. What good is power if you can't control it?...Hope's got this one figured out.

    Be patient....have fun....and keep us updated on the new Mono Mini's

    EndUser
    My advice and $3 will buy you nothing more than a tunafish sandwich.

  13. #13
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    Bostonqiwi and Enduser,
    Thank you very much for all the input. I only get to ride on the weekends bc I'm a student studying for the MCAT and taking classes. So my weekend rides are my reward and release form the week. I do work on my bike during the week though so everything will run smooth on the weekend.

    Would you suggest oiling the pistons?

    Thanks.

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE=
    Would you suggest oiling the pistons?
    QUOTE]

    I'd ride them first, get the brakes bedded in and see how things settle before worrying about much else. The brakes will be weak until bedded in so don't ride straight to the top of a hill.....

  15. #15
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    Only as a last resort....or if your patient fades first.

    I have a buddy who just rode his Minis only re-centering them as necessary. Eventually, his brakes broke-in with no issues. I, on the other hand, am ME engineer so I couldn't resist fiddling around with the brakes. Two different approaches resulting in the same outcome.

    With that being said, because I fooled around with them so much I know every little detail regarding my brakes and can fix them with my eyes closed.

    DO NOT OIL THE BRAKE PISTONS. NEVER USE HYDROCARBON BASED LUBRICANTS LIKE OIL OR GREASE. HC's could be incompatable with the piston seals and could ruin them. If you choose to work the seals, ONLY use DOT 5.1 brake fluid to lubricate...which is glycol based. I believe the Mini's come pre-bled with Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid (at least mine did)....it costs about $7 per liter and you can get it at your local auto or motorcycle parts store. If you do this be careful and don't push the pistons out too far....also be careful with the brake fluid. If you have cheap paint on your bike DOT 5.1 has the potential to dissolve it. I've spilled it on my bike and I've never had this problem, but people contend it will eat your paint if you leave it sitting there.

    Good luck,

    EndUser
    My advice and $3 will buy you nothing more than a tunafish sandwich.

  16. #16
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    I'll just go ride them and see how they are.
    Thanks

  17. #17
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    or you can ask

    Quote Originally Posted by piercebrew
    I'll just go ride them and see how they are.
    Thanks
    USA Sales
    Hope Technology Inc.
    40234 Dutton Street
    Cherry Valley, CA 92223
    Phone: (+1) 909-769-1654
    Toll Free: (+1) 800-303-6863
    Facsimile: (+1) 909-845-4467
    E-mail: info@hopetech.com

    How much does a 'phone call cost, $1? Call Hope if you are concerned/worried. Like 2 of us have now said, they are new. Use them for a while and bed them in.

    Jim MCM #11

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