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  1. #1
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    Installing Avid XX Hydro Brakes

    I'm planning to buy Avid XX Hydro brakes and they will be delivered ''ready to go - filled and bled''. My problem is that I have an internal cable frame, so I guess I'll have to disconnect the cables from the calipers for the installation. My question is, Do I have to do the bleeding procedure after the installation?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Constantinos View Post
    I'm planning to buy Avid XX Hydro brakes and they will be delivered ''ready to go - filled and bled''. My problem is that I have an internal cable frame, so I guess I'll have to disconnect the cables from the calipers for the installation. My question is, Do I have to do the bleeding procedure after the installation?
    yes, unless you want very sub par/ non existant performance on $800 brakes...?

    you will likely have to cut at least the front brake line as well, but probably both lines. which requires a special hose cutting tool.

  3. #3
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    Yes.

    Why don't you buy the better, lighter new Hope 2Evos that are 275g approx. once set up they hardly need attention vs XX or XOs.

  4. #4
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    Thank, I get the picture now. The groupset would be SRAM XX1 + AVID XX. I know, Hope 2Evos are lighter but the total weight of the bike would be around 20lbs (good for me) so I prefer to have only SRAM/AVID Parts in my new bike. About the tools.. Ha, I have no idea what I should buy. It's my first attempt to build a bike and I'm completely lost with the tools. I guess I'll need a specific chain tool and different cable and housing cutters for the gears and the brakes..

  5. #5
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    Hi mate

    I have Avid/XO brakes, fine but they get spongey. BoostN7 mentioned XX brakes he had failed on him down a sharp turn. Thus he switched. So on a reliability perspective it maybe prudent to research fail rates. They also need bleeding more often.

    Safe trails. Merry Christmas

  6. #6
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    I guess I'll have to reconsider what I should buy
    Thanks and Merry Christams

  7. #7
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    What about the Magura MT6 vs Hope Tech M4

  8. #8
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    I would avoid Avid brakes (especially high end $). I have had issues with them and so have some of my friends.

    I have Magura MT8 on my Scslpel and really like them. Good power and modulation.

    I also have used Formula R1 with success. They make clamps that can clean up the cockpit (mixmaster?)

    As mentioned above, the hopes get great feedback for reliability. I have not personally used them, but they look really nice and get good reviews. Can be found for a reasonable price, as well.

    Good luck!

  9. #9
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    I'll have to also chime in and say spend your $$ someplace besides Avid when you want brakes, especialy if you don't knwo what you're doing - talked to a SRAM/Avid rep and he told me the XX brakes should be bled every couple months Are you kidding me I say spend your $$ on Shimano, either XT or XTR and have a good, easy to use and setup brake. Me personally am no weight weenie and for about 1/2 the price of the XTR and prob a weight gain of 60g can get the XTs. I just got the XT M785s, thought I had half decent brakes before, but holy cow was I wrong, these things are amazing, heck I even shortened the lines without a bleed and they're that powerful (honestly don't know if a bleed would make them even better, although lever feels strong, no mush). You can find the XTRs on Jenson and other places, for around $200 a wheel to, minus rotors of course, so 1/2 the price of those XXs. FYI, quite a few guys down here with the XXs and they've all switched to XTR and since the switch, no issues.
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  10. #10
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    I kinda expected others to chime in, exactly representative. Most on XT/Rs are reliably happy.

    Those on Hope Evo2s are also considerably happy.

    Bikeradar graphs I linked you to are very unbiased & will be the reason you should consider brakes. Based on Wet & Dry conditions. Safety is everything. It should be on rough terrain.

    The best thing you can do is in finding a LBS who can also tool you up. Someone friendly & kind enough to let you know what you need. Maybe there are nice Peeps near you from the forum. Take your time.

  11. #11
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    Yes, I would probably need an expert to help me with the installation.
    I think Magura MT6 will work for me - fingers crossed
    Thank you all for your help, your opinion was very important and helpful for me

    Merry Christmas!

  12. #12
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    I have '12 XX WC setup on my race bike. I bled them once after install, changed worn pads after some races. They had zero issues, no need for any additional bleeding.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Constantinos View Post
    I guess I'll have to reconsider what I should buy
    good move xx brakes really are a scam, kind of like sram chains and cassettes, horribly overpriced and screw you a month in to ownership. I found out the hard way.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    good move xx brakes really are a scam, kind of like sram chains and cassettes, horribly overpriced and screw you a month in to ownership. I found out the hard way.
    I have got 4-5 chains on one 1070 11-36t cassette(at the very least 900mi), and its still going strong. Are you sure your not doing something wrong... Or maybe there are some other factors working against you?

    I am also pretty bad about cleaning my chain too....

  16. #16
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    Dude, you do realise that normally a chain should last over 500 miles right, not 3 over 900 miles? If I changed my chains that regular my cassettes would probably live forever - change mine probably about every 700-900 miles and my 9spd Shimano cassettes last me years.
    Quote Originally Posted by kcvpr View Post
    I have got 4-5 chains on one 1070 11-36t cassette(at the very least 900mi), and its still going strong. Are you sure your not doing something wrong... Or maybe there are some other factors working against you?

    I am also pretty bad about cleaning my chain too....
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Dude, you do realise that normally a chain should last over 500 miles right, not 3 over 900 miles? If I changed my chains that regular my cassettes would probably live forever - change mine probably about every 700-900 miles and my 9spd Shimano cassettes last me years.
    Sorry, I'm probably off in my calculations......... All I know is I have been through 4-5 chain on one cassette, changing only when worn out.

  18. #18
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    Also depends if you need to shorten the lines to fit your frame. If buying new, the hardware kit will come with the two pieces that go into the hydro cable.
    #willofthesun and author of the most viewed MTBR thread: Platform Pedal Shootout

  19. #19
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    P.S. Just installed an XX and XX World Cup '12/'13 brakeset and shortened the lines using the Shimano bleed-free method.
    #willofthesun and author of the most viewed MTBR thread: Platform Pedal Shootout

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcvpr View Post
    Sorry, I'm probably off in my calculations......... All I know is I have been through 4-5 chain on one cassette, changing only when worn out.
    i switched to kmc sl ti after a series of bad sram chains. Mainly premature stretch that i didnj't catch on time and took out my rings and cassette by the time i realized the problem. Over 1/4 inch stretch in a few hundred miles on the next 2 and that made me realize the scam. Combine that with the pair of 300$ cassettes that bent a tooth on one after a few months and the second that literaly chipped a tooth the first ride and time to swear off known bad components for good, or go broke

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    i switched to kmc sl ti after a series of bad sram chains. Mainly premature stretch that i didnj't catch on time and took out my rings and cassette by the time i realized the problem. Over 1/4 inch stretch in a few hundred miles on the next 2 and that made me realize the scam. Combine that with the pair of 300$ cassettes that bent a tooth on one after a few months and the second that literaly chipped a tooth the first ride and time to swear off known bad components for good, or go broke
    That's pretty bad! On XO the SRAM on my hi-mod destroyed the front crank teeth - a few quite gnarly bashed chipping! I changed to Shimano.

    Basically LBS said if you use SRAM change it ASAP, it's not worth the hassle & damage. I learn $180 approx after.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    i switched to kmc sl ti after a series of bad sram chains. Mainly premature stretch that i didnj't catch on time and took out my rings and cassette by the time i realized the problem. Over 1/4 inch stretch in a few hundred miles on the next 2 and that made me realize the scam. Combine that with the pair of 300$ cassettes that bent a tooth on one after a few months and the second that literaly chipped a tooth the first ride and time to swear off known bad components for good, or go broke
    the sencond one would have probably fallen under warranty..

    I would have also at least tried to pursue warranty on the two chain issues you had. Sram has been very good to me warranty wise and to everyone else I know that rides sram.

    Either way, I am sorry you have had trouble with sram. I hope all is well now, be it shimano or sram.

  23. #23
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    Don't know WTF you guys are doing, honestly don't, but I've run Shimano and SRAM chains, from HG53 to CN7701 in Shimano and 951 to 991 in SRAM and I've never experienced what you guys are talking about. Over the last year I've run 2 PC971 chains on 2 of my bikes, must have logged a good few thousand miles between them and over 24" I don't even have an 1/8th stretch yet. Maybe it's my good shifting technique, not cross chaining, keeping my chain properly cleaned and lubed, don't know, but know you guys have to be doing something wrong

    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    i switched to kmc sl ti after a series of bad sram chains. Mainly premature stretch that i didnj't catch on time and took out my rings and cassette by the time i realized the problem. Over 1/4 inch stretch in a few hundred miles on the next 2 and that made me realize the scam. Combine that with the pair of 300$ cassettes that bent a tooth on one after a few months and the second that literaly chipped a tooth the first ride and time to swear off known bad components for good, or go broke
    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    That's pretty bad! On XO the SRAM on my hi-mod destroyed the front crank teeth - a few quite gnarly bashed chipping! I changed to Shimano.

    Basically LBS said if you use SRAM change it ASAP, it's not worth the hassle & damage. I learn $180 approx after.
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  24. #24
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    User error and maintenance. Drive trains are not plug and play. I learned to adjust or tuned my drivetrains because they move and become out of line after few rides. You guys had it too late resulting in damages and now blaming the company. My advice get some proper tools and play with it. SRAM and shimano for example has tutorials all over. I save my money buying tools than going to LBS to get repair. Make friends with the bike mech, buy him a six pack for some tips and tricks. I like to bleed my brakes that why I stayed with SRAM.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyomarga View Post
    once set up they hardly need attention vs XX or XOs.
    I havent had to touch my limit screws or barrel adjusters on my full Xo groupo the whole season.... ?

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