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  1. #1
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    install - brake housing question

    I am changing over my brake and shift cables. My bike has a section were the cable go bare (no housing) on the top tube. Should I go bare there of run housing the whole way?

    It seems that anything that will limit friction is good but I hate having more of the cable exposed than I need to. Ive seen it both ways, with and without housing, but just wanted to see the opinions out there. Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbatl11 View Post
    I am changing over my brake and shift cables. My bike has a section were the cable go bare (no housing) on the top tube. Should I go bare there of run housing the whole way?
    The cable guides built into your frame don't allow you to run housing the whole length of the top tube. They are designed to accept the ferrules on each of the housing ends. The only way you can run full length housing is to zip tie it to your frame. My suggestion would be just to keep it stock and break the housing where designed on the top tube.
    2012 Intense M9
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbnozpikr View Post
    The cable guides built into your frame don't allow you to run housing the whole length of the top tube. They are designed to accept the ferrules on each of the housing ends. The only way you can run full length housing is to zip tie it to your frame. My suggestion would be just to keep it stock and break the housing where designed on the top tube.
    Original way of doing this was to run full housing. In fact, you have more friction by using cable stops and ferrules then running full housing, since the cable will have more contact points. Plus your cable stops on the frame might not be perfectly lined up.

    Good compression-less housing and good stainless or Teflon coated cables will allow a full housing setup to work flawlessly for years, if not a decade.

    I don't know which frame you have, but if you can do so, take a dremel and a cut-off disc and cut the stop sections of the cable guides to allow full housing use. Also file the edges and use fine sandpaper to smooth up everything not to damage the housing over time.

    You will also want to prep your housing by first using a razor blade to cut the plastic housing till you reach the metal, then using a dremel cut off the metal section. After this use the dremel to buff the housing end flat to ensure you get no compression by having the whole housing end in contact with the ferrules or housing stops. Then make sure the PVC liner in the housing is ok and not crush. Use a cable cutter if possible to cut your cables, but a nice strong wire cutter plier should do the job.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I don't know which frame you have, but if you can do so, take a dremel and a cut-off disc and cut the stop sections of the cable guides to allow full housing use. Also file the edges and use fine sandpaper to smooth up everything not to damage the housing over time.
    You've got a great point and it's the OP's call but I just couldn't do that to any of my bikes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbnozpikr View Post
    You've got a great point and it's the OP's call but I just couldn't do that to any of my bikes.
    Yeah, it's easier to cut out other people's bikes, I know but so far I did 2 of my bikes that way. I learned the hard way about the advantages of the dremel over a metal saw when cutting cable stops

    Lucky for me, my FR bike have cable guide where you just zip-tie the housing on, so I didn't had to mess with it

    And with good cable and housing prep, my mechanical disc brakes now feels like hydro, not friction and no mushy feeling, even on the rear brake. Just not resistance at all, then a dead stop of the lever when full pad contact is achieved.

    Plus full housing is a good thing if you live and ride where it's dusty or wet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails install - brake housing question-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326949513.946574.jpg  

    install - brake housing question-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326949759.448959.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Yeah, it's easier to cut out other people's bikes, I know but so far I did 2 of my bikes that way. I learned the hard way about the advantages of the dremel over a metal saw when cutting cable stops
    Oh, I gotcha... I was under the impression that you were going to use the dremel to cut the entire thing off, not just "drilling" it out to make it possible to run full-length cable housing through the guides.
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    just get Gore be done with this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by a2gtinut View Post
    just get Gore be done with this.
    Gore are nice but don't they go for somewhere around $70 a set?
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    I actually got the flak jacket set which has a protective shield that runs the length of the stops. What is the point of having the protective tube? Why not just keep the housing? I guess so you can use the stops and still protect the exposed cable....? I would think just running the full housing and even just zip tying would be better. Not so sure I want to cut up my bike.

    Also, the flak jacket set came with 2 sets of jagwire ferrules and white tubes that are maybe 3 inches long, anyone know what they are for. Nothing in instructions about them. Hopefully it works I tried to add a photo of the set below. You can see the black ferrules and white tubes in the middle.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by mtbatl11; 01-19-2012 at 07:04 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbatl11 View Post
    I actually got the flak jacket set which has a protective shield that runs the length of the stops. What is the point of having the protective tube? Why not just keep the housing? I guess so you can use the stops and still protect the exposed cable....? I would think just running the full housing and even just zip tying would be better. Not so sure I want to cut up my bike.

    Also, the flak jacket set came with 2 sets of jagwire ferrules and white tubes that are maybe 3 inches long, anyone know what they are for. Nothing in instructions about them.
    The ferrules are for the housing ends. The white tubes might be for protecting the frame where you interrupt the housing, so the cable itself don't damaged the frame paint if rubbed or crush on it.

    You are right about the protective tubes. But I still prefer to run full housing if possible. Just zip-tie your housing to the frame and if you can't get it to work your way after a few rides, you can always just cut the zippies and redo the setup with interrupted housing. But trust me, if you have a good setup with good housing prep and good cables, you won't even notice any friction caused by the housing.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Appreciate the help guys. Yeah, the installs pretty straight forward, but those white tubes are the only thing throwing me off. Maybe there for V-brakes. Oh well, no worries. thanks for all the advice.

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    Be sure to measure twice and cut once

    Not like the guy at the factory who cutter the bulk housing for my bike... I now have a stock full housing setup with a rear brake housing so limit it's about to slide out of the barrel adjuster if I turn the bars to far right. In fact it's sliding out actually. But I have like 8" too much of rear derailleur housing, same for the front der and brake... It's universal housing, braided and very rigid. But it's kind of frustrating and I don't want to cut off the rd housing excess because I might change my frame and I really don't want to run short again.

    You could also use some industrial Velcro (only the fuzzy side) to stick on the frame where the housing might rub to prevent paint damage. And if you're gonna use zip-ties to secure the housing, I'll suggest to use some shrink wrap or similar over the housing areas to be in contact to prevent any damage to the housing if it moves over the rides and use of the bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  13. #13
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    I run the Jagwire Ripcord cables for my shifters and they work really good at keeping the cables lubed up and clean.

    The white tubes are probably for running v-brakes to run inside the metal curved part near the brakes themselves.

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