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  1. #1
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    How to center the rotor

    I have hayes 9 disc breaks and I noticed that the rotor is not going through the exact center of the break so it rubs against one of the pads making a noise. How do I center it? I checked the disc break FAQ already and that did not provide enough explanation. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

  2. #2
    FD1
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    Shims ....

    You should have received shims, - (lil washers of various thickness) with your brakes that you place between the mount and calipers. However first make sure your wheels are properly seated in the dropouts and your calipers are properly snugged onto the mounts

  3. #3
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    Nope, no shims with Hayes

    That's not the way Hayes brakes mount. Hayes have a different setup.

    Here's what to do:

    Make a centering tool out of an old soda can, roughly about the size and shape of two postage stamps stuck together.
    It should look like this
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    Step #2

    Remove these bolts. Please note that when you replace them, blue loctite is a VERY GOOD IDEA. Also, torque them to 110 in/lbs.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    Step #3

    Put your custom, oh-so-high-tech tool on the roter like this:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Last step

    Put the caliper back on. Remember the blue loctite, but don't tighten it down just yet. With the caliper in place but the bolts still a little loose, squeeze the brake lever a few times. Now, holding the lever squeezed, tighten the bolts. Don't forget it is 110 in/lbs of torque.
    Let go of the lever, and gently spin the wheel backwards to slide your spiffy centering tool out of the caliper.
    If all went well, you are now ready to ride.

    I hope this helps.

    miles

  7. #7
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    Thanks

    I will try this as soon as possible... one question.. which bolt do I remove.. I'm not 100% positive to which bolt you are pointing to.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImWithBusey
    I will try this as soon as possible... one question.. which bolt do I remove.. I'm not 100% positive to which bolt you are pointing to.
    He's pointing to the bolt about an inch directly in front of his finger. Ok, maybe it's a little to the left. There should be another one like it on the same bracket further back towards the rear of the bike. You only need too loosen them enough to be able to move the caliper around. No need to remove the bolt completely.

  9. #9
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    Good explanation but absolutely no need for shim.

    Quote Originally Posted by miles
    Put your custom, oh-so-high-tech tool on the roter like this:
    Here is the procedure to use.

    Install adapter boss but leave bolts loose (by loose I mean you should be able to push the brake adapter around under the bolts...but it shouldn't be too sloppy.)

    Install caliper assembly on adapter. Leave those bolts loose as well.

    Clamp down on brake lever hard.

    With brake lever held firmly tighten all 4 bolts.

    When you release the lever the caliper will be centered.

    One other note. Your caliper rotor could be warped. Check it for flatness before doing this procedure.

    Danny

  10. #10
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    Didn't work

    I tried it, followed it step by step and it still rubs, albeit less than it did before. What could I be doing wrong / what else can I try. It only seems to rub at a certain point of the rotor; it's not a continuous rub. The rotor is trued, but I can tell that itís too close to one side of the caliper and that is why it rubs. I tried to fix this, but whenever I tighten the bolts it always goes back to being too close to one side. Is there any way to move the pads farther apart or any other adjustments? How tight do the bolts have to be in laymanís terms? Is there a way to move the rotor itself? Iíll take any tips I can, this rub is really annoying. Thanks.

  11. #11
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    One thing missing is

    You first need to remove the pads and take a 10mm box wrench and use the box end to press the pistons back into the calipers. Now reinstall the pads and wheels. I have found a business card on each side of the rotor works very nicely. Slip one in between the rotor and pad and with the caliper bolts loose, squeeze the lever a couple of times ( it will be very mushy the first squeeze, this is normal) to pump up the brakes and, with the lever held in, tighten the bolts. Now remove the cards and you should be in business.
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  12. #12
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    Good point...if this is a fix or reinstall....

    Quote Originally Posted by Darkwing Duck
    You first need to remove the pads and take a 10mm box wrench and use the box end to press the pistons back into the calipers. Now reinstall the pads and wheels. I have found a business card on each side of the rotor works very nicely. Slip one in between the rotor and pad and with the caliper bolts loose, squeeze the lever a couple of times ( it will be very mushy the first squeeze, this is normal) to pump up the brakes and, with the lever held in, tighten the bolts. Now remove the cards and you should be in business.
    Good point...if this is a fix or reinstall, you need to push the pistons back or else they will still rub.

    One other note. If your rotor is warped, just rubs once per rotation, you need to fix it. There isn't a lot of a space to spare.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImWithBusey
    I tried it, followed it step by step and it still rubs
    Try it with a Mountain Dew can instead.

  14. #14
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    I laughed, anyway.

    Good call on the Mountain Dew instead of Coke, but I'm pretty sure that's only for 8" rotors.

    Anyhow, if it still rubs, but only in one spot, your rotor needs to be trued. Do it by hand, by simply grabbing the rotor with your fingers and trying to bend it away from the side it rubs on. Do that a few times until the noise stops. It may be a bit difficult seeing the spot that needs bending, but you can figure it out.

    miles

  15. #15
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    Will it work with Hayes HMX-1 Mechs???

    That is the best explanation of the process I have seen yet...will it work for the mechs or just the hyros??

  16. #16
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    I haven't tried it with mechanicals...

    But I don't see why it wouldn't work exactly the same.

    If you try it, tell us the results.

    miles

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