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  1. #1
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    How can I tell which brakes stop better?

    I currently have Hayes Stroker Ryde brakes on my MTB with 160mm rotors. These do not lock up the front wheel at all. I thought they'd get better after a couple hundred miles but I can't even do a front wheel hop because the brakes are so darn weak.

    I pretty much know that 24mm pistons are, all things remaining equal, better than 22mm. Trouble is manufacturers always seem to highlight other parts and leave important information out of their specs.

    Anyway my gripe aside, is there a list/chart/graph of specs and braking power which the average consumer can navigate and use to make a decision? (of course that would be too simple)

  2. #2
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    If your brakes can't lock up the wheel something is wrong with them. Even the cheapest/worst brakes will lock the wheel. Do the levers go all the way to the bars? You may need to bleed them, if they're bled and properly adjusted they may have something internally wrong. How old are they, can you return them?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlmuncie View Post
    If your brakes can't lock up the wheel something is wrong with them. Even the cheapest/worst brakes will lock the wheel...
    ^^^ This....most likely set up problems or contaminated pads.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlmuncie View Post
    If your brakes can't lock up the wheel something is wrong with them. Even the cheapest/worst brakes will lock the wheel. Do the levers go all the way to the bars? You may need to bleed them, if they're bled and properly adjusted they may have something internally wrong. How old are they, can you return them?
    Came new with the bike.

    They're the entry level Hayes hydraulic brakes. Everyone claims their brakes have better stopping power. Are they full of it?

  5. #5
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    What kind of pad material are you using

  6. #6
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    I have no idea. Whatever came with the bike.

    I just spoke to one of my bike shop guys. He says I need to get the discs really hot so some of the pad material can get embedded in the disc.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlmuncie View Post
    If your brakes can't lock up the wheel something is wrong with them. Even the cheapest/worst brakes will lock the wheel. Do the levers go all the way to the bars? You may need to bleed them, if they're bled and properly adjusted they may have something internally wrong. How old are they, can you return them?
    That's what my LBS guy told me. He said the lever feel was fine. They just need to be broken in more.

  8. #8
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    Just do a few sprints in the parking lot and slam on the breaks(carefully, as not to send you flying over the bars). After a few cranks on the brakes, they should be pretty close to being bedded in.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheTwanksta View Post
    (carefully, as not to send you flying over the bars).
    Yeah well good luck with these brakes!

  10. #10
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    If you are already have a few hundred miles it should have been bedded in. I'd say it's pad/rotor contamination just clean it out with brake cleaner and or bake the pads.

  11. #11
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    How was the bed in done when you got the bike? It's a silly thing to ask, but if you went out and just rode the thing, there's a big likelihood that the pads didn't get bedded in, and because of that they started to glaze over. You glaze over pads, you get a crap brake. You don't go run your car hot and bothered on the freeway after you get new pads on it do you? No, you rip it around the neighborhood a bunch first. So, solution is to remove the pads and that a CLEAN file and lightly break up the glazed surface with it. Note- clean file means one that has never come in contact with oils or anything else liquid. Don't use sand paper because the adhesive in it could act funky once the brakes get hot and cause the power to drop off. No good. Then yeah, do 20 sprints and hard stops on each brake to bed the suckers in proper. That should nip it, but if not I'd be betting the pads have been contaminated.
    You are not what you own.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by juancancook View Post
    How was the bed in done when you got the bike? It's a silly thing to ask, but if you went out and just rode the thing, there's a big likelihood that the pads didn't get bedded in, and because of that they started to glaze over. You glaze over pads, you get a crap brake. You don't go run your car hot and bothered on the freeway after you get new pads on it do you? No, you rip it around the neighborhood a bunch first. So, solution is to remove the pads and that a CLEAN file and lightly break up the glazed surface with it. Note- clean file means one that has never come in contact with oils or anything else liquid. Don't use sand paper because the adhesive in it could act funky once the brakes get hot and cause the power to drop off. No good. Then yeah, do 20 sprints and hard stops on each brake to bed the suckers in proper. That should nip it, but if not I'd be betting the pads have been contaminated.
    That's an excellent post

  13. #13
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    Thanks! It coulda been better. Remove the pads and then use a clean file to...
    You are not what you own.

  14. #14
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    if you are heavy that may do it. I had(well have, sitting in a box currently) the rydes too, the lack of stopping power was my main reason for getting rid of them. At 225 geared they aren't the best. and before anyone says bad pads glazed rotor or needs a bleed, i bled them swapped pads and sanded the rotor then re-bedded and did not improve power much. That is just my experiance

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