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  1. #1
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    Hope Tech X2 Clearance Issue

    Sorry if this has been discussed before, or has been posted elsewhere, but I haven't found a solution for brake pads rubbing.

    I've had the Hope X2's on my bike for 2 years, and have yet to be able to get them to run completely free.

    I've watched the Hope video on Centering the Caliper and Piston.

    But it seems like I might just need more clearance.

    Any input?

  2. #2
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    We need some more information. What rotors are you using?

    There are two rotor widths available for Hope floating rotors. If the one you have is the thicker of the two, that can cause issues. But typically the pistons should retract far enough. Otherwise, you might have to bleed the system to remove some of the excess fluid, allowing the pistons to retract more.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shalom View Post
    We need some more information. What rotors are you using?

    There are two rotor widths available for Hope floating rotors. If the one you have is the thicker of the two, that can cause issues. But typically the pistons should retract far enough. Otherwise, you might have to bleed the system to remove some of the excess fluid, allowing the pistons to retract more.
    What he said. Remove the pads, and push in both pistons all the way. If you find they won't both go in all the way, open the bleed nipple, be prepared for fluid leak, push the pads in to remove excess fluid.

  4. #4
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    Have you bled the brakes? I'd try that before trying to purge excess fluid. The key step is to make sure the pads are all the way in when you replace the MC cap. The risk of purging fluid through the bleed nipple is that you remove too much which will result in crap lever, poor performance and you'll have to bleed anyway.

    I will say though that there is a MINUSCULE amount of space when the pads are retracted. Not even enough for a business card.
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  5. #5
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    Does the rotor rub an entire revolution?
    If not, try to tru the rotor on the bike. I have my caliper moved all the way out, and it was the same on 3 different bikes, and I barely have enough room. I would like to know what bike would allow the caliper to be moved in, just a little bit. I would like to see Hope do something about this, but I'm sure that will never happen.

    Good luck

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Have you bled the brakes? I'd try that before trying to purge excess fluid. The key step is to make sure the pads are all the way in when you replace the MC cap. The risk of purging fluid through the bleed nipple is that you remove too much which will result in crap lever, poor performance and you'll have to bleed anyway.

    I will say though that there is a MINUSCULE amount of space when the pads are retracted. Not even enough for a business card.
    sounds about right.

    If you have a good bleed the brakes should work well. If there is any misalignment in the caliper the brakes will rub. Some combinations of forks and wheels will also have the brakes rubbing. Have been trying to do a quick write up here on the brakes with pics, but will be on travel starting tomorrow. Will try to get something together early next week.

  7. #7
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    One other idea.
    I had a problem with my front caliper rubbing. I determined it was the face of the mount on the fork. You may want to check the mountong surface and check for any clearcoat on there. You can try and sand it doen or have it faced. I had my fork faced, and it solved my rubbing issue.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mucky View Post
    Does the rotor rub an entire revolution?
    If not, try to tru the rotor on the bike. I have my caliper moved all the way out, and it was the same on 3 different bikes, and I barely have enough room. I would like to know what bike would allow the caliper to be moved in, just a little bit. I would like to see Hope do something about this, but I'm sure that will never happen.

    Good luck
    Does not rub the full rotation, and sometimes just a mere brush of the pad. Other times though, enough to stop a slowly moving wheel. It appears as though there is lateral movement from the rotor. How do you suggest truing the rotor?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Have you bled the brakes? I'd try that before trying to purge excess fluid. The key step is to make sure the pads are all the way in when you replace the MC cap. The risk of purging fluid through the bleed nipple is that you remove too much which will result in crap lever, poor performance and you'll have to bleed anyway.

    I will say though that there is a MINUSCULE amount of space when the pads are retracted. Not even enough for a business card.
    There definitely is minuscule space between pad and disc. I guess that means the set up must be dead on to run free. The front brake is fine. The rear has always had some sort of issue.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by northwest View Post
    Does not rub the full rotation, and sometimes just a mere brush of the pad. Other times though, enough to stop a slowly moving wheel. It appears as though there is lateral movement from the rotor. How do you suggest truing the rotor?
    There are tools to do it. You can just use your hands to SLIGHTLY bend the rotor. I would check the mounting surface first. When I had the problem with my front, everything was fine when I lined up the caliper and the bolts weren't all the way tight. When I completely tighten the bolts, the caliper moved ( kinda rotated on the mount). I had the mount faced, and it fixed the problem. I should have done it myself, as it was just some clearcoat o the mounting surface.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by northwest View Post
    There definitely is minuscule space between pad and disc. I guess that means the set up must be dead on to run free. The front brake is fine. The rear has always had some sort of issue.
    Doh! see your up in Spokane by the profile. If you were close to Albuquerque I'd have you bring it over facing the tabs with Hopes Spot Tool.

    Rear line might have a tinny bubble. Only way to get it out is to do what I call a purge bleed. Get a 60 or 90cc syringe filling it with fluid. Pinch off the hose at the end of the syringe drawing a vacuum on the fluid. (pull the plunger back but not to where it comes out) Small bubbles should form floating to the top of the tube. remove the pinch and push till the air is gone. Connect the hose to the bleed valve and force the new fluid up slowly. Your going to want a bucket below the open master cylinder as it will pour all over the place. While pushing fluid you tap the caliper & line with the handle of a screw driver breaking loose any air bubbles. Tighten the bleed valve and cycle the brake lever till the pistons come out of the caliper body a little bit. Careful as they can fall out if moved to far. Clean around the cylinders with a Qtip getting and dirt off the surface and reset the pistons with the bleed valve open. the entire time the syringe must remain connected. Did any air come out? If not draw a vacuum on the line while watching the master cylinder fluid level drop to low. This should force any air bubble out. Finish the bleed like normal.

    If the rotor is not true then use a clean pair of channel wrenches moving the rotor from side to side slowly till it is straight.

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