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  1. #26
    Single Speed Junkie
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    Alright there has been some debate here on how to set these up regarding the bit point. Question I have is how to get some power out of these brakes? I've beaded them in on a few hot runs. (Prior set of M4 were seated in less than one run) Brakes will gently slow one down fully compressing the lever. Have about 3/4" before it hits the bar. Brakes have been thru a few bleeds from pushing fluid up from the caliper. Letting fluid pour our the bleed nipple and so on.

    Watched the video as well following all steps a few times. Don't think there is any air in the system as no bubbles have appeared. Any advice?

  2. #27
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    sounds like you need to bleed them again. properly.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoot2boot
    sounds like you need to bleed them again. properly.
    LOL. Will bleeding a brake with no air in the system help?

  4. #29
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    It might be that you need to check the padds' and discs' contamination. It often happens that you spill some fluid on it and power flies away... check that out. Greetz.

  5. #30
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    it doesn't sound like there's no air in the system if you can pull the lever almost to the bar and only gently slow down. but yeah, it could be oil on the pads too if you drenched em.

  6. #31
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    Did a re-bleed / complete flush with no sign of air bubbles. Even placed an extra long puke tube on the bleeder nip double checking. Pads were safely stored in another room mitigating any chance of contamination. Then went for a ride and sure enough the brakes remain weak.

    Typical means of setting the pads is going from the LaLuz trail head back down to Tramway. Looking at the Google topo map LaLuz is starting at 8400' and ends down at 6100'. Could the pads be glazed? Next though was taking some light sandpaper to the pads.

  7. #32
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    So I am back to searching for solutions. My Tech's have never been right in the two years I have owned them. I have recently stripped them down and done a full seal replacement on them. After following the same bleed steps, filling the system, rotating the calliper to get all bubbles out etc, even after all of this, the lever still pulls to the bar and is soft. This applies to both ends. I have bled this so many times, no air. I have tried the table-tied lever trick to try to pressurise the system and force air up to the mc.

    I am now left with a choice
    a) send them to Hope to get them serviced @45 an end.
    b) spend circa 100 an end getting new brakes (or breaks as I now like to refer to them)
    c) giving up on brakes altogether and using a stick in the spokes or my feet to slow my down in the alpes.

    Advice welcome.

  8. #33
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    This isn't an air issue. With the calliper off the bike and washers in between the pistons, the lever feels firm-ish. The ish bit comes from caliper flex, which I can see and feel when I apply the brake with force.

    However, mount it on the bike and pump the pads out, and the lever still pulls to the bar. I am not sure how the internals of the lever works but it makes me wonder if the mechanism for 'pumping out' the pads isn't working correctly.

  9. #34
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    Was this a new set of brakes? If the leaver pulls to the bar after the pads make contact and the system is bleed right my next guess would be it has the wrong lines and the are expanding when you pull the leaver.
    2011 Kona unit with some carbon.

  10. #35
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    They were new when I bought them, but are now 2 years old. However, this issue has never really been resolved, they have always been very very soft at the lever end. Other peoples V2's seem much firmer.

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