Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Grande's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    177

    New question here. Hope Mono Mini - Setup- Need help

    Anyone aware of any setup instructions outside what is put out from hope. I'm having a hard time setting my new front hope up. I just cant seem to center the rotor with the pads. I've played around with washers and whatever combo I try I cant seem to get anything to work. Then if it close I'll depress the lever and I think it may make matters work.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,664
    Quote Originally Posted by Grande
    Anyone aware of any setup instructions outside what is put out from hope. I'm having a hard time setting my new front hope up. I just cant seem to center the rotor with the pads. I've played around with washers and whatever combo I try I cant seem to get anything to work. Then if it close I'll depress the lever and I think it may make matters work.
    Can you give more info, make of frame, fork, hubs. I hear some peeps had trouble setting up Iso Kings because they are on the thick side of the tolerance. I am using Am classic hubs and the front hubs do not have a bearing preload, the axle sort of floats in there. If i change how tight i close my skewers it will change the position of the rotor in the calipers, I have to eye ball it before every ride.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Grande's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    177
    Thanks for the reply. They're not Kings.

    98 DeKerf ST Frame
    2000 X-Fly
    Hugi Hub
    --I'm working just with the front.


    Here's the problem. I've been able to setup it okay to a point: Initial centering of the pads seems okay. I fully retracted the pads by pully them out and pushing the pistons back. I played with the different washers so the rotor looks dead center. But when I give the lever a pull, the pads dont seem to retract enough-(one or both) and they end up scuffing the rotor.

    Hope's manual suggests when one pads moving and the other is not, pull the rotor against the moving pad and pump the lever. Maybe I doing it wrong. I cant get this to help me at all.

    Also, I did notice the thing leaked at the caliper end on 2 occasions. First, a little when Ihad the pads out and was pushing back the pistons (to retract them). Later when I tried adjusting the hose at the '90 degree connector' as they call it. It wasnt a lot but a little more than a few drops.

    I'm not sure why it did that either. Do I need to put more fluid in there?

  4. #4
    banned
    Reputation: gonzostrike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,258
    you might be seeking a level of "perfection" in setup and operation that truly is unobtainable.

    what's the problem? the caliper pistons move out and don't retract all the way?

    does that leave a lot of pad drag, or is it just a matter of not returning all the way to what you thought was "perfect"?

    the position of the pistons when you force them back is different from the position they will occupy after you've operated the system a few times. what you are trying to achieve is not full retraction to the point of where you can FORCE the piston, but rather, retraction to the point that you aren't getting significant brake rub. a tiny bit of drag is irrelevant to function.

    it sounds like you don't really know how they work. if that's the case, if you don't understand how they operate, you can't really expect to get them set up properly on your own.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Grande's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    177
    Perfection? No. Functional use? Yes

    I have an understanding how they work. I dont yet have an understanding how they behave. I do not understand why they do not retract to a point there is not significant drag on the rotor because right now there is what i consider quite a bit of drag. This is my first disc unit. But from using others, there is no way this is proper set up.

    Is this drag normal and expected at the start? Self adjusting?


    I think what I need to understand is some of the fundamentals of setup. The stuff I need to get right at the get go so everything after goes well.

    Also, what happens to the unit when a small amount of fluid is lost from leak. Does it need to be replaced?

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    129
    Is the brake dragging or just scuffing the rotor? with the bike in a stand spin the front wheel. If is spins for a while, but you can here the brakes scuffing that's 100% normal. If there is enought drag to stop the whell shortly after you spin it then you have a drag issue.

    On my M6 and my mini the spring between the pads was rubbing on a high spot of the rotor causing what I thought was pad rub. Once I moved the spring a little off center it went away.

    Have you been centering the rotor with the pad in? you can do it much more accurately with them out.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Grumpy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    744
    I think BJP has a good point about removing the pads, pad centering and caliper centering are two separate issues (interweaving them will lead only to frustration)

    Remove the pads (push the pistons and self adjustors back into the calipers with a plastic tool) and center the calipers over the discs.
    Now put the pads back in and pump the lever a couple times the self adjustors should move the pads up close to the rotor if one pad drags (enough to quickly slow the wheel) then you should be able to center the self adjustors by having keep the lever lightly pulled and then pull the rotor towards the side with the dragging pad. (steady even pressure they move slowly) then apply the brakes a couple time and check the clearance again.
    If you are in the us you can call hope us toll free, they are always willing to offer help in getting the brakes properly set up.

  8. #8
    banned
    Reputation: gonzostrike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,258
    great point grumpy. I didn't discuss that distinction between orienting the caliper's position re the rear hub, and the act of trying to bottom out the caliper's individual pistons to get full retraction. combine the two and you have illogical unneccessary confusion.

    your point on "frustration" is what I had in mind when I posted above, though!

    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy
    I think BJP has a good point about removing the pads, pad centering and caliper centering are two separate issues (interweaving them will lead only to frustration)

    Remove the pads (push the pistons and self adjustors back into the calipers with a plastic tool) and center the calipers over the discs.
    Now put the pads back in and pump the lever a couple times the self adjustors should move the pads up close to the rotor if one pad drags (enough to quickly slow the wheel) then you should be able to center the self adjustors by having keep the lever lightly pulled and then pull the rotor towards the side with the dragging pad. (steady even pressure they move slowly) then apply the brakes a couple time and check the clearance again.
    If you are in the us you can call hope us toll free, they are always willing to offer help in getting the brakes properly set up.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-23-2005, 11:54 PM
  2. hope: mini mono vs. m4
    By TrailNut in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-14-2004, 03:25 PM
  3. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-04-2004, 04:00 PM
  4. Can anyone help me find Goodridge for Hope MM's? Or Hope Mono Mini Rear 140's?
    By Nicholas Broskovich in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-23-2004, 04:46 PM
  5. hope mini vs mono mini
    By pfunk in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-13-2004, 12:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •