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  1. #1
    Woolfe
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    Hope mono mini... help

    I bought a set brand new off ebay and had them installed at LBS.

    The first problem was they are very weak. I know they have a break in period, but they are so weak I'm kinda scared to ride it. I read in the manual about the bedding process so I decided to try it. Now for the 2nd problem, 5 min into this process the rear break stoped working completly. I looked at it and fluid was all over the place. Looks like it came out of the valve on the caliper.

    Everything seems tight on the brake I'm not sure if I blew a seal in it or what. Is their anything I should try doing or checking before I fill it back up?
    Anyone try putting thread tape on the valve on the caliper?

    Last question I promise LOL, Is their a way to clean the brake fluid off the pads? Or do I need to buy new ones.

  2. #2
    (aka SS_MB-7)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolfe
    I bought a set brand new off ebay and had them installed at LBS.

    The first problem was they are very weak. I know they have a break in period, but they are so weak I'm kinda scared to ride it. I read in the manual about the bedding process so I decided to try it.
    I used to ride Minis (now Marta SLs). Yes, there is a pad/rotor breakin period. How long did you try and break them in? It isn't instantaneous...It does take some time, though. You should gradually feel the brakes coming alive and then, wam, there they are!


    Quote Originally Posted by Woolfe
    Now for the 2nd problem, 5 min into this process the rear break stoped working completly. I looked at it and fluid was all over the place. Looks like it came out of the valve on the caliper.
    Boy, sounds like your LBS did a great job installing them. Probably bitter that you bought the brakes on EBay and had them install it

    Seriously though, take the time to learn how to install and bleed the brakes yourself. Minis are dead-simple!


    Quote Originally Posted by Woolfe
    Everything seems tight on the brake I'm not sure if I blew a seal in it or what. Is their anything I should try doing or checking before I fill it back up?
    Anyone try putting thread tape on the valve on the caliper?
    Well, from the sounds of it, "Looks like it came out of the valve on the caliper". Make sure the valve is/was tight. If it was tight, then the leak could be coming from somewhere else. If it was loose, that's your problem. But, before re-bleeding, you need to find the source of the leak, otherwise, you'll be back to square 1 again.

    The unfortunate part is, you've got to re-bleed the rear. Which, you can either do yourself or you can take it back to your LBS and have them fix it. After all, you paid for the installation, right? If so, it had better be done right.

    Also, you've likely soaked your pads. You can either pitch 'em and get new ones or you can try and salvage them by baking them in the oven for ~20min at 400F. You'll also need to thoroughly clean your rotor with isopropyl alcohol to get all of the DOT fluid off. Also, make sure you wipe your frame/wheel down, too, because DOT has a nasty habit of eating paint.


    Quote Originally Posted by Woolfe
    Last question I promise LOL, Is their a way to clean the brake fluid off the pads? Or do I need to buy new ones.
    See above. But, yes, you can clean your soaked pads. I've done it with Hopes, Formulas, Shimanos and Maguras. I just put them in the oven for ~20 min, pad-side-up at 400F. Crank-up the fan, open the windows...it's going to get smokey.

    Let the pads cool and then give them a light scuff with some sand-paper to remove the crap on the surface. Then, clean your rotor with alcohol.

    Once everything is clean, just take your bike out for a couple quick demo/test rides on your street. Try a couple quick accelerations and then hard brakes to test your brakes. Some moderate downhills (safe ones...remember, you really don't have any brakes yet) with the brakes applied, will help, too.

    To me, it sounds like your pads weren't broken-in yet anyway, so it may be a combination of new pads and some residue working against you. It will take some time, but they should come back.

    Or, when all else fails, go to your LBS and get some new ones.

    Here are some Mini bleeding tips I wrote, which will help you do it yourself: Bleeding Hope Mini's???
    Last edited by 1speed_Mike; 05-14-2005 at 05:16 AM.
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

  3. #3
    Neg reppers r my biatches
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1speed_Mike
    I used to ride Minis (now Marta SLs). Yes, there is a pad/rotor breakin period. How long did you try and break them in? It isn't instantaneous...It does take some time, though. You should gradually feel the brakes coming alive and then, wam, there they are!




    Boy, sounds like your LBS did a great job installing them. Probably bitter that you bought the brakes on EBay and had them install it

    Seriously though, take the time to learn how to install and bleed the brakes yourself. Minis are dead-simple!




    Well, from the sounds of it, "Looks like it came out of the valve on the caliper". Make sure the valve is/was tight. If it was tight, then the leak could be coming from somewhere else. If it was loose, that's your problem. But, before re-bleeding, you need to find the source of the leak, otherwise, you'll be back to square 1 again.

    The unfortunate part is, you've got to re-bleed the rear. Which, you can either do yourself or you can take it back to your LBS and have them fix it. After all, you paid for the installation, right? If so, it had better be done right.

    Also, you've likely soaked your pads. You can either pitch 'em and get new ones or you can try and salvage them by baking them in the oven for ~20min at 400F. You'll also need to thoroughly clean your rotor with isopropyl alcohol to get all of the DOT fluid off. Also, make sure you wipe your frame/wheel down, too, because DOT has a nasty habit of eating paint.




    See above. But, yes, you can clean your soaked pads. I've done it with Hopes, Formulas, Shimanos and Maguras. I just put them in the oven for ~20 min, pad-side-up at 400F. Crank-up the fan, open the windows...it's going to get smokey.

    Let the pads cool and then give them a light scuff with some sand-paper to remove the crap on the surface. Then, clean your rotor with alcohol.

    Once everything is clean, just take your bike out for a couple quick demo/test rides on your street. Try a couple quick accelerations and then hard brakes to test your brakes. Some moderate downhills (safe ones...remember, you really don't have any brakes yet) with the brakes applied, will help, too.

    To me, it sounds like your pads weren't broken-in yet anyway, so it may be a combination of new pads and some residue working against you. It will take some time, but they should come back.

    Or, when all else fails, go to your LBS and get some new ones.

    Here are some Mini bleeding tips I wrote, which will help you do it yourself: Bleeding Hope Mini's???
    wow, what an incredible response. you more than do this board justice with data like that!!!

  4. #4
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    I concur....

    ...with what Mike said and will add the following:

    1. Your LBS f'ed up on the install - make them fix it. This includes brand new pads and a full shake down of front and rear brakes. If they haven't already, I'd ask that they throw in free disc tab facing for the hassle. Hopes are finicky to set up and I face the tabs on all my frames and forks - chime/squeel/rub free.
    2. You can try to clean the pad but I wouldn't do it in the house. Maybe set them on some tinfoil and put in a hot grill outside. Or, do what I did and just take a propane torch to 'em.
    3. Once you get them repaired the best way to accelerate the bedding in process is to throw some mud on the caliper. No joke. This was recommended to me by Chris at Speedgoat - arguably one of the better experts on Hope brakes. The mud trick also helps if for some reason you get a greasy paw or chain lube on the rotor.
    4. The brakes are really easy to work on but the DOT fluid is nasty stuff. I've been reusing the same fluid for three years with great results.
    5. They should be "set it and forget it" brakes other than pad replacement. If you're really anal and want perfect length brake lines then I recommended you learn how to work on them yourself - it will save you $.
    6. Don't use thread tape or Locktite.
    Hope this helps,

    Sean
    Professional Amateur. Disagree? Submit your grievances here.

  5. #5
    Woolfe
    Guest
    Thanks for all the good info!

    I found the problem. I have a leak coming from the yellowish gold colored cap. It's not a slow leak either, the fluid pretty much squirts out with little pressure applied to the handle. I called the dealer I got them from on ebay and he is going to arrange for it to get fixed. Just sucks I have to wait another week to ride it .... I wish I would of went with a different brand now. I've been building this bike for over a month now and just got finished with it, atleast I thought it was done. LOL Here's a pic of the leak circled.


  6. #6
    (aka SS_MB-7)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolfe
    Thanks for all the good info!

    I found the problem. I have a leak coming from the yellowish gold colored cap. It's not a slow leak either, the fluid pretty much squirts out with little pressure applied to the handle. I called the dealer I got them from on ebay and he is going to arrange for it to get fixed. Just sucks I have to wait another week to ride it .... I wish I would of went with a different brand now. I've been building this bike for over a month now and just got finished with it, atleast I thought it was done. LOL Here's a pic of the leak circled.
    Ouch, that sucks! I've never heard of that before, but I can see it happening (albeit, rarely)! But, at least it wasn't your LBS' fault. And, you are very lucky that the eBay dealer is going to help you...you could have been SOL!
    Ride Hard,
    Mike B. (MCM# 7.77)
    http://www.one-speed.com

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