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  1. #1
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    Hope Floating Rotors

    Would like to start a thread for Hope Floating Rotors where everyone can post there setups. What worked and what didn't work for you.

    When I was looking, there is hardly any information on whether these things would work or not with my setup. Very frustrating.

    I'll go first.

    Hope 2 piece Saw Rotors 06+ X2/M4/Mini 203mm/183mm

    Bike: 2010 Specialized Enduro Comp
    Fork: 2010 RS Lyrik R
    Brakes: Avid Elixir R
    Hubs: Hadley DH Hubs v11.0
    Brake Mounts: Stock mounts 203mm/185mm

    Swapped my G3 Rotors with the Hope and had NO RUBBING issues.

    With my stock setup, I had a minimum of 2-2.5mm space between any part of the fork, frame, mounting bracket or caliper and the stock rotor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hope Floating Rotors-photo-1.jpg  

    Hope Floating Rotors-photo.jpg  

    Hope Floating Rotors-photo-2.jpg  

    Last edited by mcgong; 02-10-2011 at 03:38 PM.

  2. #2
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    I've had no problems with the hope tech 4's and my marzocchi 55's

    I've heard the fox 36's rub though.
    Good topic


  3. #3
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    160mm did not work for me with new XTR M985 brake, reba fork and DT hub - rivet hit the caliper. Used an Avid XX rotor instead.

    In the past - with I9, fox fork, hope caliper, and 180mm rotor, rivets hit adapter and fork, with some dremel work made it work.
    Last edited by RWGreen; 02-11-2011 at 04:50 AM.

  4. #4
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    Damm!
    I was hoping to use this rotor with the new xtr trail brakes. I have a fox f120 and a 2011 pivot mach 4 that I was hoping to put them on.

    Sounds like it's not going to work

  5. #5
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    Ohh mcgong, you just HAD to show off here too =P

  6. #6
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    Floating rotor 180, RS Revelation PM fork, Hope Pro 2 hubs works fine. It never occurred to me why it would not work. Why are some people having problems with the rotors?

  7. #7
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    Short version is you will almost always have to try on your personal set up.

    When the Lyriks first came out, I had 5 through warranty. None of them worked. I had to file down the brake adapter for it to work and spin freely. The kicker, the consistency of close the rotor was to rubbing was not there. One fork it'd be really close, another not even. The next in between, and so on.

    Now 4 years later I have 2 more Lyriks, and they both work with no filing down of the adapter or anything. Go figure.
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  8. #8
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    I'm glad they worked for you mcgong. Lookin good.

    Forks: 2007/2008/2011 Fox 36's
    Brakes: Hope Mono M4/ V2
    Rotors: Saw floating/Moto floating 203/183
    Hubs: Hope Pro 2/2010 Crossmax SX/DT Swiss 240s

    Work fine on the Hope Hubs. Rub on mounting hardware and fork lowers with Crossmax hubs. Requires shaving of mounting and fork lowers for them to work. 2007 Fox 36's with DT hubs worked fine. no rubbing

    Forks: 2010 RS Boxxer Team
    Brake: Avid Elixir CR
    Rotor: 203mm Saw
    Hubs: DVision (aka HT Industries)

    Work fine. No rubbing

  9. #9
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    Fork 2009 Fox F100 15TA
    Brakes 2010 Hope Race X2
    Rotors Avid CSG2 (the Floating Hopes were to wavy - couldn't get 'em true)
    Hubs American Classic 130 Disc

    Fork 2009 SID World Cup 9mmQR
    Brakes 2010 Hope Race X2
    Rotors Hope Floating (the Floating Hopes were to wavy - rubs the pads)
    Hubs Ritchey WCS OCR Ltd.

  10. #10
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    Tech 2 180mm here on my 2010 Fox Talas 36 160. The rotor did rub the inside of the lower, but a little work with a file taking off some the coating in that area and it works perfectly now!

  11. #11
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    I have the 203's on a 2010 888 with Saint M810's. On both the front & rear I had to lightly file the caliper on the inside of the piece that has the mounting holes. I noticed a very slight amount of wear on the lower mounting boss on the fork, but Ive never had to file it or anything.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by UEDan
    Ohh mcgong, you just HAD to show off here too =P
    Hehe, I hope this thread helps out all the people that come to this fork in the trail after me.

    Great posts everyone! Thanks

  13. #13
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    Hope 2 piece Saw Rotors 06+ X2/M4/Mini
    183mm front/183mm rear

    Bike: 2009 Trance X
    Brakes: Tech m4 f/r
    Fork: 2009 Fox f120
    Mounts: what came with the calipers

    I had slight rubbing from the spider on the lower post mount of my fork. Took a little wet sanding on my part took care of that. Rotor is mounted to a Giant brand front hub.

  14. #14
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    Hope Disc Mono Mini/M4 Saw Disc Floating 160 mm

    Bike: 2010 Santa Cruz Superlight
    Brakes: Shimano XTR m975
    Fork: 2009 Fox F100 RLC
    Hubs: Hope Pro 2

    Rear was fine. Front had rubbing between the rotor rivets and the brake caliper at the lower bolt mount point which required filing about 2 mm of material to stop the rubbing.

  15. #15
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    Fork: 2011 Fox F120 RLC
    Brakes: Hope X2
    Rotors: Hope floating rotors, 183 mm
    Wheels: Mavic Crossmax ST

    No rubbing at all.

  16. #16
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    Bike: Niner Rip9 2010
    Fork: 2010 F29 FiT 120 RL
    Brakes: Hope Tech M4
    Rotors: Hope floating rotors 183mm
    Wheels: Hope Pro 2 with Sun EQ27 rims

    No rubbing
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  17. #17
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    Fork: 2011 36 Talas FIT RLC
    Brakes: Hope Tech M4
    Rotors: Hope Floating rotors 183mm
    Wheels: Tune King 20mm with ZTR Flow rims

    get absolutely stuck

  18. #18
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    Fork: Revelation 150
    Brakes: Shimano XT sintered pads
    Bike: Ibis Mojo SL 180mm F - 160mm R
    Wheels: CB Iodine

    Had rub in the front caliber lower tab, cured by filing a bit.

    Does anyone get howling when these get hot, I mean HOWLING? They even sound as if they are loose or something, first time it happened I stopped to check the rear rotor bolts.
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  19. #19
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    Specialized Pitch Pro
    Fork: Pike 351
    Brakes: Hope Tech M4
    Rotors: 203fr/183rr
    Wheels: Hope pro 2 with Mavic EN521

    Lucky for me, just bolted them on, and off I went. Nice and easy.

    I put Hope Tech V2 pink on my wife's Myka FSR and had to play with the rear to get rid of the rubbing.

  20. #20
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    Brakes: Hope X2
    Rotors: 183/160 floating. Front caliper adapter (160 => 183mm) by Hope.
    Hubs: Hope Pro II (6 bolt)
    Fork: 2010 Fox Vanilla RLC FIT 140 (comes with post mount interface, set up for 160mm rotors)

    No rubbing or clearnace issues at all. This is the best set of brakes I've ever tried. Blows the doors off Avids and Hayes I've tried in the past for lever feel, quietness and durability of the rotor.

    Simply put, these brakes and their floating rotors flat-out work. They don't fade and they look like craftsmanship from tip to tail. There's just something about machined aluminum. I wouldn't hesitate to spec them again.

  21. #21
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    Hope Tech M4 brakeset
    Hope floating rotors front and rear 203mm
    Fox TALAS 36 RLC 2011
    Chris King ISO HUBs

    So far so good.Just plug and play as they say....brakes work very well!

  22. #22
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    In my opinion, floating rotors are far superior to 1-piece designs. I have been running them with hayes primes for 2 months now, and it truly is noticeable. Definitely go 2-piece. Plus, they look fantastic!
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrabikerepair
    In my opinion, floating rotors are far superior to 1-piece designs. I have been running them with hayes primes for 2 months now, and it truly is noticeable. Definitely go 2-piece. Plus, they look fantastic!
    What is noticeable?
    There is no functional difference between both, the only advantage is that a floating rotor won't bend as easily (from impacts or otherwise) as the carrier is stiffer. In a blind test you wouldn't be able to tell the difference in braking performance.

    Most people use them for the looks. Some might also be lighter, not sure about that.
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  24. #24
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    Started to use 160/140 version on iron horse azue with Fox F100 RL fork and hayes stroker trail brakes and Mavic Crossmax SLR wheelset.
    Rivets started to scratch calipers. But the most interesting is that this problem occured only mounting the rear brake. It went very strangely. Adapter wasn't tight because of frame contruction and there wasn't enouph of calipers holes widht to adjust them. So I put one spacer between frame and adapter and worked. I was able to adjust calipers and needed to bend pads lugs with plier.
    Also the same problem occured mounting rear hope with my K18s on Lapierre X-Control. But I adjusted them more easily than before. front is good.
    Now I'm selling them with wheelset and planing to run on hope hubs with 3-bolt standard.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil
    What is noticeable?
    There is no functional difference between both, the only advantage is that a floating rotor won't bend as easily (from impacts or otherwise) as the carrier is stiffer. In a blind test you wouldn't be able to tell the difference in braking performance.

    Most people use them for the looks. Some might also be lighter, not sure about that.
    yes yes. you can dream on as far as you want. I thought the same when was buying mine. Floating rotors bends the same as one piece conventional rotors.
    and floating rotors are also much lighter with no braking degradation (I have very sceptical opinion about these alligator, ashima and other ones of that kind). but not every. shimano, hayes and avid floating rotors differ very little from conventional rotors. hope floating 180 mm rotor weight 148 g :O but 160 and 140 versions are very light. formulas also are very light.
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  26. #26
    g3h6o3
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    Quote Originally Posted by painless
    yes yes. you can dream on as far as you want. I thought the same when was buying mine. Floating rotors bends the same as one piece conventional rotors.
    and floating rotors are also much lighter with no braking degradation (I have very sceptical opinion about these alligator, ashima and other ones of that kind). but not every. shimano, hayes and avid floating rotors differ very little from conventional rotors. hope floating 180 mm rotor weight 148 g :O but 160 and 140 versions are very light. formulas also are very light.
    From formula:
    Disc 160mm (solid) 87g
    Disc 180mm (solid) 121g
    Disc 160mm (Al.carrier) 87g
    Disc 180mm (Al.carrier) 110g

    Much lighter... right

    The Shimano XT 6 bolt floating rotor (RT76) is actually very different from the non-floating version (RT75). The floating carrier is much thicker and much more resistant to impacts, it simply doesn't bend

    Care to explain how two braking tracks with the exact same pattern can yield different results? The carrier has no effect on braking performace. Can we say placebo?
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil
    From formula:
    Disc 160mm (solid) 87g
    Disc 180mm (solid) 121g
    Disc 160mm (Al.carrier) 87g
    Disc 180mm (Al.carrier) 110g

    Much lighter... right

    The Shimano XT 6 bolt floating rotor (RT76) is actually very different from the non-floating version (RT75). The floating carrier is much thicker and much more resistant to impacts, it simply doesn't bend

    Care to explain how two braking tracks with the exact same pattern can yield different results? The carrier has no effect on braking performace. Can we say placebo?
    yes, I agrre with you about shimano floating rotors. they are heavy and very stiff.
    I didn't say anything about different braking performance between floating and non-floating systems with the same steel outer disc.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by painless
    floating rotors are also much lighter with no braking degradation
    I guess I misunderstood that statement...
    With that said, It's true that Hope or Formula floaters don't seem considerably thicker than the "standard" rotors. They are thicker but not go to the extent of Shimano's, I can't comment on bending.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil
    I guess I misunderstood that statement...
    With that said, It's true that Hope or Formula floaters don't seem considerably thicker than the "standard" rotors. They are thicker but not go to the extent of Shimano's, I can't comment on bending.
    they are 1.8 mm thickness. you can find some realy lighter floting hope rotor (maybe it is called pro version), which one is 1.6 mm thickness.
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  30. #30
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    Hope tech M4
    183mm F & R
    Vanilla 36 Fork
    Hope Pro II hubs

    Hope tech M4
    183 F, 160 R
    Talas 150 RLC
    Hope Pro II hubs

    no problem on both setups. but a few months back i ran a chris king hub on a talas 150 rlc with 160 and 180 rotors, both rub on the eyelet. needed a little bit of shaving on the brake mounts of the fork.

  31. #31
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    Hope Tech X2
    160 mm floating F&R
    Fox F100 QR15 fork
    Tune (F) & DT240s (R) hubs

    No rubbing issues so far, but I'm planning switching to a 183 mm rotor in the course of the season. Hopefully somebody can tell me it will or won't work before I spend the cash

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by painless
    they are 1.8 mm thickness. you can find some realy lighter floting hope rotor (maybe it is called pro version), which one is 1.6 mm thickness.
    I'm nto talking about the braking track, I'm talking about the spider.
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  33. #33
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    Oh, sorry. I have formula standard one piece rotor from K18 and hope floeter. Aluminium carier is the same thicknes as formulas steel arms.
    Bending. From my experience with hope rotors, they bend same as one piece rotors as I wrote before.
    Do you use or used shimano floating rotors?
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  34. #34
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    Yes I use the RT76, or I should say I've got them installed this winter and I'm waiting for a test ride.

    For Formula, it looks the same thickness, apart from this one :http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/5684125/
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  35. #35
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    Yeh, I read about them. Weight is very simila to shimano as I remember. But they should be very stiff
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  36. #36
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    If you ask me, that's the point of a floating rotor, to be able to have a stiff carrier that doesn't weight too much because it's alu.

    Of course for some folks it's about anodizing and color matching or weight savings.
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  37. #37
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    Yes, I understand that. Just forgot about shimano and formula floting rotors posting about their side stiffness at first
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  38. #38
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    Saw x Formula The One

    I bought 203mm Hope Saw floating rotors. They don't fit 2011 Formula The One because the circles touch the caliper.
    Front Fox 40
    Frame Carbon GT Fury
    Last edited by egsavio; 04-08-2011 at 06:54 PM.

  39. #39
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    Has anyone tried the following:

    Shimano 15mm M758 front hub
    2011 Fox Float
    Tech M4's w/floating rotors?

    I'm in the market for new brakes, and Hopes are at the top of my list . . . the question is floating vs. fixed rotors. Just looking at things, I don't think the floaters will work . . . but who knows.

    Anyone have the max. width on the floaters?

  40. #40
    Eder
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    Nice hint. I filed dow 1 mm the caliper base and now the 203 mm Hope Saw rotor fits perfectly the Formula The One in Fox 40.

  41. #41
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    Bike: SC Blur LT2
    Fork: RS Revelation
    Brakes: Hope X2
    Hubs: Chubb Hub (F), DT 240s (R)
    Brake Mounts: 185/160

    The Hope floating rotors look awesome! No rubbing, or other weird noise, and plenty of braking power when I was in Santa Cruz a week ago.

  42. #42
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    Marzocchi 66 ti and 203mm hope floating rotors clear just fine.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcgong
    Would like to start a thread for Hope Floating Rotors where everyone can post there setups. What worked and what didn't work for you.

    When I was looking, there is hardly any information on whether these things would work or not with my setup. Very frustrating.

    I'll go first.

    Hope 2 piece Saw Rotors 06+ X2/M4/Mini 203mm/183mm

    Bike: 2010 Specialized Enduro Comp
    Fork: 2010 RS Lyrik R
    Brakes: Avid Elixir R
    Hubs: Hadley DH Hubs v11.0
    Brake Mounts: Stock mounts 203mm/185mm

    Swapped my G3 Rotors with the Hope and had NO RUBBING issues.

    With my stock setup, I had a minimum of 2-2.5mm space between any part of the fork, frame, mounting bracket or caliper and the stock rotor.
    what are those levers on the third pic?
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  44. #44
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    Niner MCR 9
    Hope Tech X2 Special Edition 183mm
    RS Reba RLT Ti Maxle 29'er post mount
    Hope Pro II hubs, 20mm TA


    No problems with rubbing whatsoever, although my rotor centering can probably use some work. But they work, the floating rotor doesn't rub on the fork or the caliper mounts, and no drag from the rotor either. I'll probably spend some more time when I can fine tuning the setup.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ductape98
    what are those levers on the third pic?
    Straightline I think

    http://www.straitlinecomponents.com/...de_Levers.aspx

  46. #46
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    Hope 180mm vented rotors (with various Shimano, Avid and generic adapters) and the sawtooth ones (which were really bad)

    Hubs: Deemax, Hope, formula cheapos ... all 20mm front, and the Deemax / Hope rears are bolt ... Formulas QR
    Brakes: HFX-9, Juicy 7s, Elixirs, Codes, Formula The Ones and Saints
    Forks: 2011 Fox 36s (post mount), ~2007 Fox 36s (IS I think), ~2009 Totem, and even a RS Judy TT (IS, was more of a "hilarious" setup)

    Tried most of those in a bunch of combinations (both Fox's and the Totem on my DH bike, and all brakes/wheel combos on that bike ... the RS on my Trek HT, with just the HFX's and J7s with only the Formula and Hopes ... converted to QR for XC duty). Zero clearance issues on any of those combinations ... I don't remember it ever being even close (of course, maybe it was clearing by 1/4mm and I just never saw).

    As an aside, the rotors sucked, by the way, in DH application (which is where I assumed they'd shine, was given them from a friend who was sponsored) ... not sure if that's being debated though.

    Edit: added axle options for forks and rotor type
    Last edited by ettore; 04-26-2011 at 08:07 PM.

  47. #47
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    But, Hope Saw rotor decreases VERY MUCH the brake power of Formula The One.
    Back to original rotors.

  48. #48
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    I was just wondering this myself... it's really bad huh?


    Quote Originally Posted by egsavio
    But, Hope Saw rotor decreases VERY MUCH the brake power of Formula The One.
    Back to original rotors.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    I was just wondering this myself... it's really bad huh?
    Yes. Formula The One pads are more large than the Hope Saw friction area. In Dh they work like a cheap Shimano brake.

    With Dirty Dog rotors the bike brakes like a horse kick.

  50. #50
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    I have two bike with very similar setups.

    Brakes: Hope Race X2 Evo
    Rotors: Hope Floating 183's
    Forks: Rock Shox Reba 2013 Solo Air
    Reynolds Carbon 29er with Reynolds Brand hub has no problem. Reynolds Carbon 29er with I9 hub - spider rubs on fork post mount.

    Changing to one piece rotors.

  51. #51
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    I don't mean to bash the Hope floating rotors, but I had to swap out my rear hope floating rotor due to excessive play in the rivets after 2 years of riding. I went with a fixed hope rotor and works great. I didnt notice a difference in performance between the 2. Plus the hope fixed rotors are cheaper!

  52. #52
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    I run 183 rotors with XTR dual control levers on my fatbike and I really happy with the performance.


    Levers


    The 183 in the rear works so well to the point I'm going to downsize to 160mm


    For the rest of my bikes (with disc brakes) I run Hope brakes so I'm not going to show them.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumpynerd View Post
    I don't mean to bash the Hope floating rotors, but I had to swap out my rear hope floating rotor due to excessive play in the rivets after 2 years of riding. I went with a fixed hope rotor and works great. I didnt notice a difference in performance between the 2. Plus the hope fixed rotors are cheaper!
    +1 Only it took me 2 months to develop play in the rivets. The rotors were warrantied, but I wouldn't recommend them. Avid and Shimano two piece rotors are not meant to "float" and the rivets don't usually develop play. I have noticed less fade with these "fixed" two piece rotors vs. a one piece rotor.

  54. #54
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    Reviving an old thread here but I had a floating rotor develop play in the rivets. I bought them in late December and started using them in early January. Bought from wiggle uk but live in the US.

    Wondering what channels people went through to get them warrantied and if I can't, is it worth it to buy a new one or go with a different rotor. They look the business and performance was good up until this point. Wanted to see if this is a common issue.

  55. #55
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    According to hope up to 2mm of play is acceptable. Anything beyond that replace the rotor.

  56. #56
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    Thanks for the response, the play actually isn't too bad but they make a high pitched buzzing sound when going over bumpy terrain. I can recreate the sound when I flick them.

  57. #57
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    Yeah I would replace them then. How long did you run for? I usually get 2 seasons out of mine.

  58. #58
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    Is it the rear rotor with play? If so you might need to go up on rotor size. I had 160mm out back and I was hitting the brakes all the time cus not enough power.

  59. #59
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    Not long at all. I started using them in the beginning of January and they were used sparingly. The winter limited their use and I am not particularly hard on brakes. Pretty disappointing.

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    I would contact hope they will take care of you.

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    183 up front 160 in the back. I've never felt limited on power with this setup. The 160 is a lot less substantial than the 183. A lot thinner material on the alloy carrier and the rivets.

    I'd prefer to keep the same rotor size because for the most part I'm pretty easy on brakes. I live in the foothills so not many sustained descents aside from when I go to the mountains about twice a month.

    Would think they could stand up to the limited abuse I dish out.

  62. #62
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    Wow. I have more than 2K miles on my Hope floaters and don't have any play whatsoever. And the majority of those miles were pretty hard on the rotors (ie, 5+ miles descents dropping a couple thousand feet).
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

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