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  1. #1
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    home made avid bleed kits

    hi all
    has anyone made an home made bleed kit for they avid? or is it possible to make one.
    thwang

  2. #2
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    probably not because you need the special bleed fittings that screw into the bleed ports on the lever and caliper, then you would need the hose clamps that screw into the syringes,

    IMO it will be easier to buy the kit,it may be expensive, but it is worth it
    i was in the same position awhile back, wondering weather it would be worth dropping $60 AUD on the bleed kit

    After numerous bleeds on both mine and my mates brakes, the kit has already paid for itself, and im really glad i bought it

  3. #3
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    Since it is dot fluid and you don't want to get it all over I would advise against botching together a kit. Those nice brass bits to interface to the system is where most of the cost of the kit is. The rest of it is pennies (or whatever your currency is ) Check ebay. There is a seller who was pretty regular about putting up the kit for around $25, that's where I got mine.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  4. #4
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    You bet I made my own kit. In fact for the $15 Canadian I bought in parts, I've cranked out 3 kits now. My friends are very happy.

    I replicated the brass fittings with some M5 hex head bolts, hardness grade of 8.8. They were soft enough for me to cut them to a reasonable length, drill a 1/16" pilot hole through them, expand the hole to 5/64" and make a shallow countersink in the head of 5/32". A short length of 5/32" brass tubing was soldered into the countersink.

    Some small rubber o-rings, 1/8" ID plastic tubing, 30ml syringes, and the fattest needles the medical supply store had were used to round out the kits. I didn't bother with trying to replicate the hose clamps. They really are not needed at all. Brake fluid has more than enough surface tension to not run all over the place.

    I've used them to bleed Elixir CRs and Juicy 3's. Using Avid's bleed instructions, they work great. I might be able to put up some pictures later if anyone wants to see them.

    Chris.

  5. #5
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    MacGyver would be proud to wield such a bleed kit. Kudos for getting in there and doing it. At $15 per kit it is worth the extra $10 to buy the prefab kit. But if you can crank out a few for that price and not spend much time, then it is indeed a good savings. I am sure pictures would be appreciated by all. Your description is pretty good, but you lost me at the brazing and needles. Picture is worth a thousand words
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er
    Since it is dot fluid and you don't want to get it all over I would advise against botching together a kit. Those nice brass bits to interface to the system is where most of the cost of the kit is. The rest of it is pennies (or whatever your currency is ) Check ebay. There is a seller who was pretty regular about putting up the kit for around $25, that's where I got mine.
    Yeah I got mine from ebay, probably same guy, for $22.
    The 2009 kit is around $50, the 2008 is cheaper, around $35.

  7. #7
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    That would be $15 for THREE kits, or $5 per kit. Medical supply is surpisingly cheap ($3.10 for two syringes and needles). Bolts and o-rings are 20 cents each (though my local Canadian Tire gave me the o-rings for free when I asked for some!). Brass tubing was a few dollars for 12 inches and plastic hose was already lying around here.

    Concerning the needles themselves, I just cut off the metal tips near flush with the plastic fitting on the syringe end. You can see the metal just poking out in the pics.

    Here they are (sorry if some find the pics too big, but the detail may help):





    Chris.

  8. #8
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    Chris, (chrissa)

    I commend you on making your own bleed kit. Job well done!

    I find it all too often where people will rather spend a little extra and buy something that they could easily make. Some may not consider it "easy" but this is only because they have become conditioned and no longer have the "i can make that" attitude. I'm like you where I'd rather make something I know I can easily make....regardless of its retail cost factor.

    Unfortunately, this doesn't always yield the best (better) solution or a cheaper one for that matter. As an example, my wheel truing stand I made actually ended up costing me as much or more than what I could have bought I also must admit it isn't as nice as a store bought unit....but that how it works sometimes

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaveOn
    Unfortunately, this doesn't always yield the best (better) solution or a cheaper one for that matter. As an example, my wheel truing stand I made actually ended up costing me as much or more than what I could have bought I also must admit it isn't as nice as a store bought unit....but that how it works sometimes
    Yep, I try to anticipate those times. Not owning a soldering iron or a brazing torch, this is one of those times

    Chrissa, thanks for posting those up. I think you can skip the needle step depending on where the syringes come from. Most that I have bought come with a plastic cap that can be drilled out and then the tubing installed over that.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  10. #10
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    I am all for building stuff yourself: I saved many thousands (nearly 1/2 the cost) by building my own house, and several hundred building my own bike light.

    Investing even an hour to save $5 or$10 on a $30 bleed kit seems silly, especially when you only need one kit to share among a circle of friends and could split the cost.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaveOn
    Unfortunately, this doesn't always yield the best (better) solution or a cheaper one for that matter. As an example, my wheel truing stand I made actually ended up costing me as much or more than what I could have bought I also must admit it isn't as nice as a store bought unit....but that how it works sometimes
    Hahaha, I know what you mean. There are a few projects around here that have gone way off the rails like that. My only hope is that I learned something in the process that I might be able to reuse again. Though in the case of a wheel truing stand, I did the opposite of you. I did buy Park's high end stand, but now I rarely pull it out. I once had to replace a rim on the rear wheel of a Honda CR125. I used a cheap dial indicator and magnetic base to measure and true the run out. Now all my wheels pretty much are left on the bikes and get trued using that indicator. It's way easier to true when you can actually quantify the run out. The $250 truing stand is gathering more and more dust, and my $30 dial indicator/stand is still running strong.

    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er
    I think you can skip the needle step depending on where the syringes come from. Most that I have bought come with a plastic cap that can be drilled out and then the tubing installed over that.
    Yeah, I think you're right. You can get what's called an irrigation syringe which has a long pointy tip on it. I've seen both examples where the tip is molded right into the syringe or an irrigation tip that fits into where the needle would normally go. Unfortunately, the medical supply store I went to had no separate tips and the largest one piece irrigation syringe they had was 15ml.

    Chris.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM
    I saved many thousands (nearly 1/2 the cost) by building my own house
    Remodeling...okay...but I don't think my heart could take building an entire house (foundation & up).

    Quote Originally Posted by JDM
    Investing even an hour to save $5 or$10 on a $30 bleed kit seems silly, especially when you only need one kit to share among a circle of friends and could split the cost.
    I can't speak for Chris but for me it has nothing to do with money.

    • Spend 30 minutes at work making $30.
    • Asking your friends for $10 each for a retail bleed kit.
    • Spend 30 minutes making something for you and 2 other friends....priceless.


    BTW: The parts chrissa pointed out for $5/ea is actually more like $1 for me because I already have the syringes from an inkjet refill kit. I only need a bolt, o-ring and dot 5.1 at a local auto/cycle store.

    Quote Originally Posted by chrissa
    I used a cheap dial indicator and magnetic base to measure and true the run out.
    Thats how I now do it. I use a dial-indicator kit I had for setting up ring & pinions (rear ends). The magnetic base doesn't work on carbon so I use pivot clamps.

  13. #13
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    This morning I made my own avid type bleed screw. I wasn't in a hurry but it only took me 15 minutes and was < $1.

    (I think I'll need to trim some of threads down)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
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    My hat is off to the great self-made tools!! Great ideas indeed!! Very nice work, congratulations!!
    But not everyone has a metal lathe, gas soldering tools OR the abilities.
    I've made a few tools of my own but that "MacGyverism" isn't in all of us.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRONMAN1518
    My hat is off to the great self-made tools!! Great ideas indeed!! Very nice work, congratulations!!
    But not everyone has a metal lathe, gas soldering tools OR the abilities.
    I've made a few tools of my own but that "MacGyverism" isn't in all of us.
    Hand drill and a cheap high watt pen style soldering iron.

    EDIT: though on one fitting I did try my plumber's torch and I wasn't really happy with the results. It was way too aggressive for such a small amount of metal. I also have a really nice high end Weller soldering station. I cranked that up to 850 degrees F and it made super short work of the joint.

    A tip for soldering: I drilled a hole in a 2x4 that was snug enough for the screw threads to slip into. It held the screw steady enough to easily apply the solder and iron, and the wood does a great job at insulating against losing any heat unlike a pair of pliers or a metal vice.

    The initial 1/16" pilot hole should really be drilled with a cobalt drill bit. Use lots of cutting oil. Spin the drill bit very slowly and go slow.
    Last edited by chrissa; 06-12-2009 at 09:53 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaveOn
    This morning I made my own avid type bleed screw. I wasn't in a hurry but it only took me 15 minutes and was < $1.
    RaveOn, that looks great!

  17. #17
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    Anyone try to use JB Weld instead of brazing/soldering?
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by IRONMAN1518
    Anyone try to use JB Weld instead of brazing/soldering?
    Should work okay as long as you really rough up the metals.

    I have used PC7 & PC11 in the past on many marine applications. The stuff will join just about anything and you can find it in a good hardware store. The stuff works awsome and is an ideal product for any do it yourself type. For this application, certainly better than JB Weld.

    http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies/pastepc7.asp

    Home depot sells it

    BTW: I brazed my fittings together...the tube and bolt was S/S.

  19. #19
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    The clamps are not necessary, but they do help quite a bit in degassing the fluid. This makes for a more thorough bleed.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    The clamps are not necessary, but they do help quite a bit in degassing the fluid. This makes for a more thorough bleed.
    Your finger over the end of the fitting makes for de-gassing the fluid pretty easy too.

  21. #21
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    Cool DIYs, however the "real" kits cost $25 canadian and I live in Whistler; I imagine most people would get them for less than that (includes DOT4 I believe, maybe 5.1, not like it matters).

  22. #22
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    bleed kit

    *****en kit !

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    The clamps are not necessary, but they do help quite a bit in degassing the fluid. This makes for a more thorough bleed.
    While I do agree that degassing the fluid is a good idea, the first step in the bleed process is to them introduce bubbles from the caliper into the syringe Also, there is a double up on degassing since you are pulling vacuum on the caliper as well. So the additional degassing really does little if anything.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  24. #24
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    cool write-up guys. I thought I'd add a bit to try and make it easier.

    M5 female threads play well with 10/32 male threads so If you can find a 10/32 male thread to bard end fitting at the local hardware/plumbing supply store you can skip the soldering/brasing step altogether.

    just an FYI. the hose clamps can be found at any medical supply house too if you really want them.
    Last edited by avbcon12; 10-18-2009 at 06:29 PM.

  25. #25
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    Those are some great tips! I may have to go look for some of those barb fittings. That also lets you skip the drilling step which is the biggest pain!

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    yeah, the drilling is no fun without a drillpress and sturdy vice.

    since my wife is a vet, I have no problems acquiring the syringes, hoses and clamps.

    Also, I called Avid this morning to see if you can order the fittings by themselves and they said no. I then asked if they could tell me the thread pitch and they said no. Not much help at all.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by avbcon12
    cool write-up guys. I thought I'd add a bit to try and make it easier.

    M5 female threads play well with 10/32 male threads so If you can find a 10/32 male thread to bard end fitting at the local hardware/plumbing supply store you can skip the soldering/brasing step altogether.

    just an FYI. the hose clamps can be found at any medical supply house too if you really want them.
    Well they definitely exist...Found this one for 1.95 at a boat supply store.
    http://www.pacifictrailers.com/index...ource=googleps

    (Yeah, I know the thread's a few months old, but what the hell.)
    Well, since they gave us a KHS forum, I guess I have to come up with something else for a sig.

  28. #28
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    I made a home kit and it only cost me $10
    It helps to have a connection in the medical field to keep the cost down..

    what you will need.......
    (2) syringes..
    1 piece of hose...(2-3 inches each will be fine)
    (2) shut offs that pinch the hose to stop fluid from coming out...(anyone at a doctors office or medical supply will have em) &
    (2) 5mm barbed fitting w/seal (see below)

    if you have a connection for the above items(besides the fittings) your almost done..

    The only hard part was finding a fitting that will work.
    I found mine(you'll need two of them)
    at my local motorcycle shop.The mechanic told me they use them
    for their air shifters on their race bikes...
    He sold me them for $5 each...(all I had to buy)

    here is a link to what they look like...
    if you search just look for a "5mm barbed fitting"..
    These have an oring already in them.
    They do NOT have as many threads as the fitting in the Avid kit,
    but I've used mine numerous times with no problems(just snug.. do not over tighten)
    here is what the fitting looks like ,but do your own shopping for the best price..
    I will take a picture tonight of my kit...I'll also post the make and number of the fittings I bought(i saved the packaging )

    http://www.anver.com/document/vacuum...tings/bm5!.htm

    here is the picture of mine with two different kinds of shut-offs...both work fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails home made avid bleed kits-dsc03360.jpg  

    Last edited by _rich_; 03-12-2010 at 02:14 PM.

  29. #29
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    heres mine new set. cost me a whopping $3. and some freebee parts from work.....Im happy
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails home made avid bleed kits-030811143708.jpg  

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    Bravo! Grat jib mcgyvers!

    Now How's about selling those for 10 bucks shipped conus to us less knowlegable bike freaks.

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    What? You guys are crazy. Dont you know that every mtb problem can only be solved by spending more money? Heathens

  32. #32
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    ... and if we just ... Juicy home made bleed parts

    First off, Hello to everyone on the forum! This is my first post on here as im just getting back into MTB riding again
    Done a bit of digging around on various Compressed air line companies and found a good one in the North West, Uk.
    Fluid Air in Bolton, u can get an M5 thread - 4.5mm Hose fitting barb for 93p! (part number is A344-4.5M5) number is 01204 559955

    Go to Hose tail with 0 ring in parts PDF.
    Hope this is helpful to newbies like myself!

  33. #33
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    anyone know if Avids can be bled with a Hayes bleed kit? obviously, everything is the same save for the fitting that goes into the caliper and lever.

    so i guess my question is, will a Hayes adaptor thread into an Avid Elixer r port?
    Consequences dictate our course of action and it doesn't matter what's right. It's only wrong if you get caught.

  34. #34
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    to answer my own question, yes the avid bleed adaptors will fit avid just fine.
    Consequences dictate our course of action and it doesn't matter what's right. It's only wrong if you get caught.

  35. #35
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    I used a couple from this eBay seller. I had to grind the spanner/wrench flats down a bit so that the threaded bit was able to screw into the caliper and lever better, but it only took a few minutes with the Dremel and a cutting wheel.

    Some hosing from an old nebuliser kit that the rabbit attacked, 2 30ml syringes from work and a couple of hose clamps from the clinical research centre at the university and I had myself a perfectly functional kit, so a big thanks to all the contributors on this thread

    Now I have 18 barbed fittings that I have absolutely no use for. Anybody want some? I'm happy to send 2 each to whomever needs them for nothing but good karma. I'll see if I have any of that hosing left that doesn't have holes in it, so I might be able to throw some of that in too (no joy on the other bits though).

  36. #36
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    Barbs

    If you have 2 xtra let me know.

    Frank Elias
    20080 Berra Way
    Salinas Ca 93908

    Thx

  37. #37
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    hey frank, just put a couple in the post with a short length of tubing. You might need to figure out how to seal the tubing at either end as it's ribbed inside, but it should work.

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    Awesome. Thank You.

  39. #39
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    Regular Avid bleed kits are quite trashy. I managed to bleed two pairs of brakes and by the time I was finishing up the third brake air started to slip past the seal. I know I wasn't pulling too hard either. Building a kit or buying their Pro is a better idea than their regular kit. DIY ones are the best though. The guys above did some good jobs with recommendations.

  40. #40
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    Brake fluid eats the rubber in the syringes. I clean out my syringes after every bleed and my bleed kit has lasted me three years with about four to five bleeds a year.
    What are you all using for bleed blocks? My avids never felt right if I bleed with the rotor in the caliper instead of the bleed block.
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    Damn, I am going to have to look on ebay then, considering I do not have access to a lathe.

  42. #42
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    you could use a file on these, they're pretty soft. Might take you a while though. All the more reason to buy a rotary tool

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    you could use a file on these, they're pretty soft. Might take you a while though. All the more reason to buy a rotary tool
    Very true. I have a dremel at home but not up at school. If I am ambitious I'll borrow one.
    Last edited by mhoran89; 09-15-2011 at 02:08 PM.

  44. #44
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    finally got off my butt and took some pictures of the fittings and bleed kit I made


    ground down fitting (so it fits into my Elixir 5 caliper and lever)


    seems to seal pretty well, although if I find any tiny o-rings on my travels I'll put one on each barb just to make sure. Might have to pester the LBS, they're a good source of little hard to find parts.

    Still have 4 pairs of barbs left, if anyone wants a pair. Just PM me your address. I'll post up on here when they're all gone.

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    Thanks Matt! Got the things yesterday. Just today I got the o ring I needed to fix a leaking Elixir R caliper I got off ebay. Worked surprisingly well, but I had to get creative for it to work out.

    To start off, I had to grind down one of the fittings to fit in the lever of the Elixir R (the caliper one didn't require anything). How do it do that? No dremel or anything like that. So, I stuck the hose end of the barb into the chuck of a standard drill. Set it to high speed and held some pliers over the Hex part. Next thing I knew, I had some metal shavings and a ground down barb. Perfect! Gotta be careful to not damage the threads though.

    Next: The brake fluid was pretty much empty when I got around to bleeding it, so it was weird. How the crap do I bleed an empty system? 1 syringe of fluid is far from enough to do it. Learned a process:
    1) Start with the std procedure (search if you need to), fill syringe in caliper with fluid, and a tiny bit in the lever syringe. Get the fluid through the system. (Note: The std procedure specifies making a vacuum at the lever end. Use one hand to retract one syringe while pushing the other, since if there is much of a vacuum, air gets in since the fittings aren't completely airtight.)
    2) When they both reach the end of capacity, take the lever syringe, pop the plug off the top, empty brake fluid, pull the syringe off the hosing, push plug all the way back in, and reattach syringe to hosing.
    3) Take the caliper syringe off the hosing, pull plug out, attach bottom of syringe to hosing, fill with new brake fluid, and push plug back in.
    4) Repeat, making sure air is at the top of the syringes and not in the fluid or going into the caliper.

    Perfect bleed! A bit messy, but brake fluid's corrosiveness is overrated anyway.

    Syringes were found in my medicine cabinet. Tubing was $3 for like 10-20 feet at Home Depot. Oh and brake fluid was leftover from bleeding the car's brakes.

    Pictures of my setup:


    Flickr: pinkston32's Photostream

  46. #46
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    you used regular dot 3 brake fluid? pppft.
    Consequences dictate our course of action and it doesn't matter what's right. It's only wrong if you get caught.

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    Dot 3? My car deserves better. Dot 4. And as if I makes a difference for my 110 pounds weight. If anything my brakes need to heat up a bit to reach the best temp.

  48. #48
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    Also, if you need o-rings try going to the local piercing parlor or tattoo shop that also pierces. They will have some o-rings in stock in the size you need, guaranteed and they will most likely give them to you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tone's View Post
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    glad you got them ok pinkston and figured out how to make them work. I now have a feel-good glow to add to my morning coffee

    good tip Monzie, never thought of that. My local tattoo guy is super friendly too, I'll just have to remember to take him a beer when I go round.

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    Quote Originally Posted by avbcon12 View Post
    cool write-up guys. I thought I'd add a bit to try and make it easier.

    M5 female threads play well with 10/32 male threads so If you can find a 10/32 male thread to bard end fitting at the local hardware/plumbing supply store you can skip the soldering/brasing step altogether.

    just an FYI. the hose clamps can be found at any medical supply house too if you really want them.
    I'm looking at putting together my own bleed kit, and M5 is hard to find. Some people say mixing 10/32 and M5 is a bad idea...
    10-32 SAE vs. M5 (8) metric
    Sport-Touring.Net - M5 equals 10-32????

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