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  1. #1
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    Help changing hoses on Elixir 5

    I need some direction on how to replace the hoses on my Elixir 5. I have shortened hoses before and I know how to do that. Plus, there are lots of directions online. What I cannot find is instructions for fitting the hose to the caliper.

    Can anyone explain or point me in The right direction? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    1) cut the hose to the appropriate length. Make sure the cut is square.

    2) First, slide the boot for the end of the lever onto the line. Slide the threaded compression fitting over the cut line, thread side towards the cut end. Place the olive over the line, then insert the barb, coated with DOT grease or dipped in DOT fluid, into the line (these pieces should be included with Avid's bleed kit). It can be pressed in with a press, or screwed in with a T10 Torx wrench. The proper sized wrench is included in the Avid bleed kit (if for some reason you don't have one, stop by your LBS, they should have an over-abundance of them).

    3) Slide the olive up over the barb, so the end is sitting flush on the line. Slide the connector up over both of those pieces. Thread the assembly into the lever, and use an 8mm crow's foot wrench (again, included with the bleed kit) to tighten to the proper torque. For an alloy (aluminum) compression nut, tighten to 5 NM, or 7.8 NM for steel.

    4) Slide the boot back over the compression nut, and bleed the brake. Take careful note of the compression fitting, and ensure that it is not leaking.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the response. I understand how to fit the new hose to the lever body. I was looking for info about attaching to the caliper. However, I found some pics of the replacement hoses and it looks like they come pre crimped and ready to screw into the caliper.

    $44 for a replacement hose on Elixir 5, that's pretty ballsy of SRAM given the quality of these elixirs.

  4. #4
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    For the same price you can get braided steel lines from goodridge. Way better fittings, no leaks. You need one kit per brake.
    Goodridge Hose Kit 111 Elixir CR | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    $44 for a replacement hose on Elixir 5, that's pretty ballsy of SRAM given the quality of these elixirs.
    I have to agree with that.

    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    1) cut the hose to the appropriate length. Make sure the cut is square.

    2) First, slide the boot for the end of the lever onto the line. Slide the threaded compression fitting over the cut line, thread side towards the cut end. Place the olive over the line, then insert the barb, coated with DOT grease or dipped in DOT fluid, into the line (these pieces should be included with Avid's bleed kit). It can be pressed in with a press, or screwed in with a T10 Torx wrench. The proper sized wrench is included in the Avid bleed kit (if for some reason you don't have one, stop by your LBS, they should have an over-abundance of them).

    3) Slide the olive up over the barb, so the end is sitting flush on the line. Slide the connector up over both of those pieces. Thread the assembly into the lever, and use an 8mm crow's foot wrench (again, included with the bleed kit) to tighten to the proper torque. For an alloy (aluminum) compression nut, tighten to 5 NM, or 7.8 NM for steel.

    4) Slide the boot back over the compression nut, and bleed the brake. Take careful note of the compression fitting, and ensure that it is not leaking.
    Hope the OP doesn't mind but I'm trying to shorten the hose on my Elixir 1, can I re-use the olive and barb? Reason I ask is because the barb is not a T10, in fact it looks like it's just round.
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  6. #6
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    Don't mind at all, UpSC. What do you mean that the barb is "round"? Was it stripped?

    The T10 fits into the end of the barb, like a hex nut, so it can be screwed in. If that was stripped then I'd guess it would be really hard to remove it and reuse it as you will need to screw that back into the end of the hose once it has been cut. If the olive isn't crimped too bad you might get away with re-using it but they are designed to crimp onto the hose to create a tight seal. Only way to tell about all of this is to re-use them but check for leaks before pushing the rubber boot back on. Best to do it with the spacer block still in the caliper as you'll get the firmest lever throw this way.

    Before having to do the job twice though, try calling the local shops and see if they have a spare olive/barb. The bleed kits come with them and I'd also guess that enoough shops work on Avids that they probably get bulk packs of those fittings. If they have them it should only cost a few bucks.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnigro View Post
    Don't mind at all, UpSC. What do you mean that the barb is "round"? Was it stripped?

    The T10 fits into the end of the barb, like a hex nut, so it can be screwed in. If that was stripped then I'd guess it would be really hard to remove it and reuse it as you will need to screw that back into the end of the hose once it has been cut. If the olive isn't crimped too bad you might get away with re-using it but they are designed to crimp onto the hose to create a tight seal. Only way to tell about all of this is to re-use them but check for leaks before pushing the rubber boot back on. Best to do it with the spacer block still in the caliper as you'll get the firmest lever throw this way.

    Before having to do the job twice though, try calling the local shops and see if they have a spare olive/barb. The bleed kits come with them and I'd also guess that enoough shops work on Avids that they probably get bulk packs of those fittings. If they have them it should only cost a few bucks.
    Nope, not stripped. It's on a current year Trek X-Caliber so maybe Avid found a way to make them even cheaper. If that's possible.
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  8. #8
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    In my experience the factory installed barbs don't have the T10 fitting, only the replacement ones do. I can't imagine this saves Avid anything, but probably generates revenue selling replacements since without that T10 fitting it is pretty much impossible to reuse the factory barbs.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    In my experience the factory installed barbs don't have the T10 fitting, only the replacement ones do. I can't imagine this saves Avid anything, but probably generates revenue selling replacements since without that T10 fitting it is pretty much impossible to reuse the factory barbs.
    Cool, thanks.
    I was under the impression from the manual and watching the sram how-to video that they came that way stock.
    I'm going with a diy brake bleed setup so I guess I'll start looking for some of those.
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