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  1. #1
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    Hayes Hydraulic Rub...

    ]I've been running exclusively Avid mechs for price/performance for 3 years on my wife's and my bikes. We've just bought her a gorgeous used Tracer, with Hayes. The front needs a shim, so not a fair test yet. The back, however, does what I've seen many of my friends' Hayes brakes do. After carefully resetting the pistons, and ensuring there was adequate clearance on either side of the rotor, the back wheel was spinning fine. A few minutes into the ride...severe rub. I reset the pistons again on the trail, and the rest of the ride went fine. Anyone know why this happens, and how to fix/prevent this problem? I'm tempted instead to stick 'em on a used bike to bring up the resale value, and go with Avid mechs again, but my wife likes the modulation of the Hayes a touch better.

  2. #2
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    i could find no solution to that problem. i sold my hayes brakes and put avid mech's on my bike with xtr levers and i am happy as a pig in poop. i also much prefer the lever feel of the xtr/avid combo.more adjustability as well. sorry i can't be of more help, but i honestly don't know how hayes gets their brakes on so many bikes. both pairs i have owned have done the exact same thing.

    mw
    mark weaver
    kuna, id

  3. #3
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    I'm thinkin you pushed the pistons in better the second time. It takes patience to get them pistons in just right, usually the first time you don't get it. Like you push one in less than the other.

  4. #4
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    Does that really matter?

    When manually retracting ("pushing") the pistons, I would have thought that pushing them clear of the rotor is all that counts. Then they reset themselves with brake application. Not so?

  5. #5
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    Can someone explain how to reset the pistons. Or am I correct in the way of doing this is to remove the brake pads, and then press down on the pistons with a blunt object so they sit flush in the caliper?

    I believe I should try this for my front brake, as just about every time I put my front wheel back on, I get rubbage. It could be from the "skraxle", but, maybe not.

  6. #6
    "El Whatever"
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    Not to discourage anyone and I clarify I haven't used Hays brakes... but IŽd read somewhere (MBA?? Maybe??) that you gotta live with the rubbing of Hayes brakes and that this was particularly annoying with 8" rotors.....
    Check my Site

  7. #7
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    I have an 8 inch rotor up front. I do get it aligned enough so the wheel spins freely, but there is often a slight chime noise from the rotor slightly rubbing the pads. Oh well, it isn't that annoying.

  8. #8
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    To each their own...

    ...but I find any unwanted noise takes some of the "Zen" out of the ride. Especially leg sapping noise

  9. #9
    don't tread on me
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    taming the hayes

    Sounds like you've sticky pistons. Try this. With the wheel out of the frame, press a 10mm box wrench against one of the pistons. Hit the lever- the free piston will move further than it usually does - that's good. The pistons are self lubed by the dot brake fluid in the caliper. Push it back all the way. Repeat the process with the other piston.
    This is for naught if you have too much brake fluid in the line. This will proevent the pistons from retracting all the way. If you know how to bleed your line, start the bleed proceedure. However, after you've removed the bleed screw from the master cylinder, shove the pistons back with authoritay using a 10 mm box wrench. This should push excess fluid out thru the master cylinder, proceed with the bleed and all should be well. Unless your rotor isn't true and/or the caliper isn't centered over the rotor.

  10. #10
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    I've played around with my Hayes brakes a bunch, including bleeding them. If I can't get my pistons to stay far enough back in their bores, will letting out a tad more fluid from the master cylander keep them farther in? Good idea or bad idea?

  11. #11
    don't tread on me
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    yeah, probably too much fluid. Just be sure to shove the pistons back as much as possible with the bleed screw out.

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