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  1. #1
    Weekend Warrior
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    Hayes HMX-1 XC questions?

    Okay, just got my gf a new bike with hayes hmx-1xc brakes. No matter how many times the bike shop works on it or I try to adjust it, I can't get the rotor to stop rubbing. The bike shop claims that "It's no big deal" but I can't imagine it being this way. I have spent hours adjusting the caliper but I can only get it to the point where it rubs just a bit. And the worse part is that if I take the wheel off and put it back on, it starts to rub really bad again. The hubs are Formulas if that helps any. And yes, I have made sure that the wheel was seated properly and I tried tons of different tensions on the wheel skewer and no luck. On my other bikes I have and Hayes hydraulics, Shimano 525's and Shimano XT's, all of them being hydraulic and they have all been problem free, including no rubbing once they were setup properly. This is my first attempt at cable discs. Are the Hayes HMX just bad brakes? I went to Hayes web site and it mentions that there is an adjustment on the side that you can use to open or close the pads to stop rubbing but the model I have does not have this feature.
    My questions are 1) Are they supposed to rub? 2) Do I just get a new set of discs like Avids
    3) Do I need to get a new wheelset with different hubs - maybe the formula hubs are not machined evenly?

    Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I much rather be riding then sitting in my garage messing with the discs all the time.

  2. #2
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    I had the same problem with my Giant nrs-2 with shimano xt hubs. Mine rubbed on the plastic part of the caliper just be fore the pad. My lbs also told me that it was no bid deal so I just rode it. It did enoy me but hey, I was broke so It wasn't even an option to think about changing them. After some riding the rotor ate some of the plastic and my problem was gone. The plastic part that got ate was kinda useless I think. Its your choice. If you can trade them for avids I think that would be the best option. If not, what the hell....

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    I had this same problems with my Hayes. To resolve the problem follow the steps below.

    carefull not to touch roter or pads as this will contaminate and cause squeel.

    1) Get two business cards
    2) Slightly loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork.
    3) Slide cards on each side of the roter between pads and roter.
    4) Sqeeze the brake lever and hold, easiest with someone helping you for this part.
    5) With lever held down and cards in between roter and pads, tighten you bolts back up and remove the cards.
    6) Check for rubbing. If rubbing still persists try again. You can even use two cards on the rubbing side but be careful that you are not pushing the roter to one side when braking.

    This should remedy the problem. it may take a couple of trys to get it right. some advice, don't lossen the bolts too much, start with a little and see if you can move the caliper if not try a little more.

    Feel free to email me if you need more explination.

  4. #4
    Ont-Trail-Rider
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    ditto

    Hey there,

    I am having the EXACT same problem. Because my bike was setup by the bike shop I don't want want to take it back and I also know how to setup the Disc on my own and adjust it also. So I don't see what they can do to fix it.

    PERSONALLY I THINK ITS A PROBLEM... If you have normal vbreaks and one of the pads is touching the rim, you notice it right...! It is friction which IMO works against you. So by a pad always having contact with the rotor which is friction. So if I was told that by the lbs that would be my response. Maybe it does not make a huge difference for smaller rides, but I think when your on longer XC / trail rides it will wear on you after awhile. Personally I know I want my wheels to only have friction with the ground when im moving forward.

    Someone mentioned using a shim. Which gave me the idea of using a small washer. I have now obtained TWO small washers that will probably give me 1mm to 2mm clearance between the break pad and the disc. I will let you know how this works, and my buddy who works for a lbs said it sounded like a decent way to correct the problem.

    I tried the business card trick but it did not work. So tonight I am going to make my skewrs closed and adjust and use the washers to move the disc break out a few "mm" and I think that will work.

    Anyhow later tonight when I make the changes to my ride I will post some result back to you if it works.
    Cheers!

  5. #5
    Ont-Trail-Rider
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    worked

    Added washers (1 per screw - smaller) between the fork and break and the tire spins awsome now. So that appeared to correct my problem for me. Something you could give consideration to in able to fix your problem also.
    Cheers!

  6. #6
    mtbr member
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    make sure that the frame/fork tabs are faced square... any bike should be able to do this... should clear up the problem along with the business card trick

  7. #7
    -> SickLines.com <-
    Reputation: mtb_biker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crank
    Someone mentioned using a shim. Which gave me the idea of using a small washer. I have now obtained TWO small washers that will probably give me 1mm to 2mm clearance between the break pad and the disc.

    I was the one to tell you to use a shim/washer.
    Not sure why you had to think up what i told you to do already about getting a small washer ...

    found cause of the rub... now what

    but regardless this method should work for the other poster as well..

    Your mechanics at your bike shops must not be very good mechanics if they think a consistent rub on a disc brake is suitable. i wonder what else they dont' know what to do..

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