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  1. #1
    wannabee
    Reputation: giantbikeboy's Avatar
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    Hayes Comp disk bleed information

    Hi all. I have an old set of Hayes Comp disks I need to put back in service. They worked fine when I hung them up for storage, levers up. Needed bled but still stopped the steed just fine. I have been unable to find the procedure to flush fill and bleed them. There are no leaks but the levers are almost to the grips, They still slow the steed down but are not safe. The pads are fairly new. I know these were early hydros and flushing and bleeding them was a pain as I remember. I searched and found little. Even on the Hayes site. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do all my own maintenance and have tools and can improvise as needed. Just need pointed in the right connection. Thanks in advance and enjoy the ride. GBB NOASL??????

  2. #2
    workin' it Administrator
    Reputation: rockcrusher's Avatar
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    I had old hayes and as I remember the trick was similar to a car.

    You tilt the lever on the bar up (so that the hose entering the lever was perpendicular to the ground).

    Rotate your bike so that the rear brake was pointed so that the caliper was vertically below where the hose entered (hose perpendicular to the ground).

    Remove the brake pads and place somewhere safe.

    Fill your bottle with dot3-4 brake fluid and place it on the nipple on the caliper.

    Use the cone shaped adapter attached to a hose and place it into the hole in the lever with the screw in it (remove screw first) (I rigged a soda bottle and spoke to hang from the handlebar to collect the bled fluid).

    now using a box end wrench or something similar push the pistons in the caliper all the way in, this will force the pistons to reset and make sure that you don't overfill the system.

    Loosen the nipple on the caliper and purge the system until it runs clear at the lever into your catcher can (soda bottle for me).

    Another person can be handy now as you need them to pump the lever a few times as you apply pressure with the bottle still (this will clear the lever of air bubbles and anything left in the reservoir).

    Finally, close the nipple while still applying pressure to the bottle and replace the screw in the lever and it should be good to go.

    Make sure to replace your pads, wipe down any spills on your bike and replace your rear wheel. Then squeeze the caliper to reset it to the disc. If it needs to be pumped then you may need to bleed again, if not you should be good to go.

    A few tips:

    you might want to pump and release the bottle at the beginning to see if you can pull any bubbles in the caliper first and then let them flow into the bottle while you hold it above the caliper before purging the system.

    You might want to tap the caliper with a wrench as you purge to loosen any bubbles in it and let them flow towards the lever and out to the catch can.

    Ultimately the best results occur when the brake line is most vertical.

    The front is the same as the rear.
    Try this: HTFU

  3. #3
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
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    Here is the link to the Hayes Stroker bleed video which is the same as a fluid flush, the feeler gauges they use are .015"

    Stroker bleeding video
    Formotion Products
    http://www.formot

  4. #4
    wannabee
    Reputation: giantbikeboy's Avatar
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    Thanks! GBB

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