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  1. #1
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Grimeca system 8 disc HELP! adjustment or new pads?

    so my front Grimeca system 8 is kinda hard to dial in. when i pull the brake lever, it goes almost all the way to the handlebar. does that mean the pads are just toast, or could i set the pads a bit closer to the rotor until it runs out all the way (like setting vbrakes closer to the rim). i know i havent worn these pads out yet. and ive bled them correctly multiple times already. is there any way to push the pads toward the rotor by playing with bleeding techniques?

    or, if i get new brake pads, will that fix the problem?

    and if i decide to get new pads, which ones should i get? i have been looking at:
    - oem grimeca 8 pads
    - EBC red pads
    - Kool Stop disc pads

    i'd like to try something with a bit more power than oem but still have the modulation. i read that the EBC reds are really strong but dont modulate too well. how do the Kool stops compare to the EBC reds? ive heard good things about kool stop pads.

    just a bit of background: i am 140 lbs, i ride a santa cruz superlight set up for slalom with fox vanilla front and rear, 519 on king hubs, mrp w/ 34t. i like to ride a lot of dh/freeride at the lifts, and go on a lot of xc rides as well. i live in southern california where there is a lot of dry sand and loose dirt.
    Last edited by Jaji; 07-01-2004 at 02:46 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaji
    so my front Grimeca system 8 is kinda hard to dial in. when i pull the brake lever, it goes almost all the way to the handlebar. does that mean the pads are just toast, or could i set the pads a bit closer to the rotor until it runs out all the way (like setting vbrakes closer to the rim). i know i havent worn these pads out yet. and ive bled them correctly multiple times already. is there any way to push the pads toward the rotor by playing with bleeding techniques?

    or, if i get new brake pads, will that fix the problem?

    and if i decide to get new pads, which ones should i get? i have been looking at:
    - oem grimeca 8 pads
    - EBC red pads
    - Kool Stop disc pads

    i'd like to try something with a bit more power than oem but still have the modulation. i read that the EBC reds are really strong but dont modulate too well. how do the Kool stops compare to the EBC reds? ive heard good things about kool stop pads.

    just a bit of background: i am 140 lbs, i ride a santa cruz superlight set up for slalom with fox vanilla front and rear, 519 on king hubs, mrp w/ 34t. i like to ride a lot of dh/freeride at the lifts, and go on a lot of xc rides as well. i live in southern california where there is a lot of dry sand and loose dirt.
    I ran the Grimeca last year and switched to Hayes this season. I don't notice much difference between them, but I think the Grimeca had more of a progressive feel than the Hayes. I never had a problem with stopping power and I'm 40 lbs heavier than you.

    As far as the levers coming to the bar, have you adjusted the lever position with the set screw? By adjusting it farther out, you may solve the problem. I had to do that when I was breaking in the Grimecas. You did not indicate how many miles you have on the brakes... That may have something to do with the problem and solution...

    Good Luck
    GEVELTERSCHMIDT RACING

  3. #3
    Old Bald Dude
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    Remove the wheel . . . .

    and gently pull the lever until the pads are slightly closer together than the width of the rotor. When you put the wheel back on it will push the pistons back just a little. Then pull the lever a few times to make sure the pads are centered. You will have a full lever again. You will have to do this a few times during the life of the pads. The screw on the lever handle just sets the distance from the lever to the bar depending on the size of your hands.

    Grimeca's self adjusting process never worked all too well. When the pistons push out, the o-ring will slightly twist vs. slide on the piston. This coupled with the springs between the pads is what keeps the pads from rubbing the rotor when not braking. What should happen is once the pads wear enough, the o-ring will slide on the piston so it doesn't assist in retracting the piston. I never had much luck with that, so I ended up assisting the process by removing the wheel as mentioned above.

    As for the pads, I used the EBC green pads.

    Here is what EBC says about the different compounds:

    [size=2]Green Pads[/size]

    [size=1]High quality Organic formula producing an excellent all round replacement pad for pleasure riding, cross country and trekking. If you're not sure what to choose, specify Green compound. This is our most popular all round pad. Good lifetime and stopping power.[/size]

    [size=2]Red Pads[/size]

    [size=1]Higher friction red compound improves brake effect and breathes life into a dull system. These pads offer more grip than standard and can be used as an upgrade pad for any system where stopping power needs a boost. Also due to the low heat generation, red pads are ideal for downhill racing.[/size]

    [size=2]Gold Pads[/size]

    [size=1]These super high friction sintered bronze "Gold" pads set new standards in disc brake stopping power combined with maximum lifetime in all conditions. Nothing lasts longer. These pads also work great in mud, water, sand etc. If you have a premature wear problem with standard pads, switch to Gold - problem solved. Not suitable for downhill race use.[/size]

    [size=1]Longer Life Formula[/size]
    [size=1]General Replacement[/size][size=2][size=1]Improved Brake or Race Use[/size][/size]


    BTW, I ran them on my Superlight until I switched them over to my Super-8. I now have Hope Mini brakes on the Superlight.

    Happy braking!!

    Chris


    Quote Originally Posted by Jaji
    so my front Grimeca system 8 is kinda hard to dial in. when i pull the brake lever, it goes almost all the way to the handlebar. does that mean the pads are just toast, or could i set the pads a bit closer to the rotor until it runs out all the way (like setting vbrakes closer to the rim). i know i havent worn these pads out yet. and ive bled them correctly multiple times already. is there any way to push the pads toward the rotor by playing with bleeding techniques?

    or, if i get new brake pads, will that fix the problem?

    and if i decide to get new pads, which ones should i get? i have been looking at:
    - oem grimeca 8 pads
    - EBC red pads
    - Kool Stop disc pads

    i'd like to try something with a bit more power than oem but still have the modulation. i read that the EBC reds are really strong but dont modulate too well. how do the Kool stops compare to the EBC reds? ive heard good things about kool stop pads.

    just a bit of background: i am 140 lbs, i ride a santa cruz superlight set up for slalom with fox vanilla front and rear, 519 on king hubs, mrp w/ 34t. i like to ride a lot of dh/freeride at the lifts, and go on a lot of xc rides as well. i live in southern california where there is a lot of dry sand and loose dirt.

  4. #4
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    Chris!

    thanks so much for the tips! i will try that technique today. thats good that you had the same setup for a proper comparo.

    so how did you like the EBC Greens compared to the OEM Grimeca 8 pads?

    also, how do you like the new Mini's compared to the Grimeca 8 on your superlight? im surprised you used the grimeca's on your super8 and not like a hope m4.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaji
    so my front Grimeca system 8 is kinda hard to dial in. when i pull the brake lever, it goes almost all the way to the handlebar. does that mean the pads are just toast, or could i set the pads a bit closer to the rotor until it runs out all the way (like setting vbrakes closer to the rim). i know i havent worn these pads out yet. and ive bled them correctly multiple times already. is there any way to push the pads toward the rotor by playing with bleeding techniques?

    or, if i get new brake pads, will that fix the problem?

    and if i decide to get new pads, which ones should i get? i have been looking at:
    - oem grimeca 8 pads
    - EBC red pads
    - Kool Stop disc pads

    i'd like to try something with a bit more power than oem but still have the modulation. i read that the EBC reds are really strong but dont modulate too well. how do the Kool stops compare to the EBC reds? ive heard good things about kool stop pads.

    just a bit of background: i am 140 lbs, i ride a santa cruz superlight set up for slalom with fox vanilla front and rear, 519 on king hubs, mrp w/ 34t. i like to ride a lot of dh/freeride at the lifts, and go on a lot of xc rides as well. i live in southern california where there is a lot of dry sand and loose dirt.
    As the first response suggested, you might want to make first sure that the reach adjuster on the lever (between the lever pivot and the bars) is screwed in first. Some people recommend screwing this all the way in before starting a bleed and the adjusting it to your preference afterwards.

    Moving this adjuster on on my 4-piston XTs, which are basically the same brakes, enormous difference. I find that they tend to adjust themselves (one moves in, the other out). Also make sure that your resevoir is full. If you find that pumping the lever a few times improves things then a further bleed is probably needed.

  6. #6
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    ...

    I bleed/pump my grimeca with the caliper removed and no rotor in between the pads. After that, when the pads are touching and there is no air in the system, I carefully set them apart a bit with the reservoir open. Liquid goes up a bit. Works like a charm. I usually go through the rotor and pads with a sandpaper, just a bit. Increases grab power. I switched from Hayes to Grimeca and COULD NOT BE HAPPIER!


    igor
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