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  1. #1
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    Gary Fisher Wahoo disc conversion

    I may purchase a 09 GF wahoo with V-brakes at my LBS for 449+tax.

    I really want to convert it to disc. I can manage to go ahead and get a set of wheels that will accept rotors, a tektro aquila disc brake set and the mounting adapters for about 200.

    yeah or nay?


    Or my other option would be to just go ahead and buy the motobecane 700HT from bikesdirect and keep an eyes out for a wahoo frame and then swap everyting over from the motobecane...

  2. #2
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    Go with BB7s from PricePoint.

    Otherwise do what you want.

  3. #3
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    Cool thanks. I didnt know about PP.


    Do you guys know if I can just get hubs and swap them into my exsisting wheels?

    Or do I have to just get whole new wheels?

  4. #4
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    If you have the extra 200.00 right now, why don't you look around alittle and find something with discs already. Most likely you'll end up with a bike that has better components also, keep looking, I bet you can find everything you want in one shot and then just go riding. Good luck

  5. #5
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    Anything that had Avids at the shop was priced 800 and up. I am thinking I can do a low budget BB5 brake setup which is way better than the V-Brakes.

  6. #6
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    I've had bb5s and they are o.k. if you're not a big guy, any other LBS in town or close by you can check out?

  7. #7
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    Too late now. I already bought the GF Wahoo.

    Looks like I can get the BB7's some new wheels with deore Hubs and the cables with housing I need for right at 200 bucks.

  8. #8
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    The BB7s would be the way to go then, what rims are they?

  9. #9
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    They are these here.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Wheelset.aspx

    A member here PM'd me about wheels he has for sale but they are silver color when I really want some black ones. I guess Im being picky.

  10. #10
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    BB7s are the best mech disc you can buy and getting the wheelset and all for around 200.00, not a bad deal at all. Congrats on the new ride, can't go wrong with a GF and have fun wrenching on your bike, I know I enjoy tinkering with mine.

  11. #11
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    Thanks man. I need to buy me a cassette tool as well. i think I can get that on jenson as well.

  12. #12
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    I bet the LBS you bought that from would remove and install it on your new hub for very little $, if not you'll have to buy the chain wrench and the socket to remove your cassette.

  13. #13
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    Thats a good idea. It really doesnt take that long to do it.

  14. #14
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    Sooner or later you will want hydraulics. Just buy them now and be done with it.
    My Bike: '15 Trek FX 7.2
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  15. #15
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    You need a chain whip and cassette tool.

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/145...et-Remover.htm

    I dont have the Price Point whip but I have a few of there other tools and they all seem to work well.

    Its real easy and you will be replacing chains and cassettes as they wear out so you may as well pick up the tools to do it yourself.
    http://www.ehow.com/how_14171_replac...-cassette.html
    Quote Originally Posted by atxjax
    Thanks man. I need to buy me a cassette tool as well. i think I can get that on jenson as well.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona0197
    Sooner or later you will want hydraulics. Just buy them now and be done with it.
    Maybe maybe not.
    Depends a lot on what kind of riding you are going to be doing and to a lesser extent on your weight. If you are going to be riding flat dry terrain Vs are pretty darned good.

    I'm still not sold on Hydraulics after using them for 9 months.
    BB7s are real easy to maintain.
    Hayes Stroker Carbons aren't turning out to be exactly maintenace free.
    Noisy as well. When they are right they do tend to allow less hand fatigue in nasty terrain.

  17. #17
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    I was able to get everything I need to do the conversion, new wheels, cassette tool, chain wrap tool, new presta tubes, Avid BB7's and a Jagwire brake cable kit for 250.00 shipped.

    I figure if I sell my old stuff I can make a few bucks to offset the money I spent.

    I plan on installingit this week when I get it. I'lllet you guys know how it went.

  18. #18
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    Cable cutter? What wheels did you get?
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  19. #19
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    I have a cable cutter at home.

    I went with the Ryno wheels in all black from pricepoint.

  20. #20
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    Post some pics when you got her together, good luck

  21. #21
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    I will. Thanks to everyoen for their support and info. here is a picture of the bike stock.



  22. #22
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    black and white looks very badazz, like it alot.

  23. #23
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    Update:

    I get my brake parts Thursday. I should have the conversion done by Saturday morning since I get off of work late Thursday and I have to work Friday.

    I was able to make a chain whip tool with a old chain I had at home and a piece of aluminum bar. No need to go out and spend 30 bucks on one.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by atxjax
    Update:

    I get my brake parts Thursday. I should have the conversion done by Saturday morning since I get off of work late Thursday and I have to work Friday.

    I was able to make a chain whip tool with a old chain I had at home and a piece of aluminum bar. No need to go out and spend 30 bucks on one.
    If someone spends 30 dollars on a chain whip there dumb any ways. Sette Torx 8 bucks, Park Tool 17 Bucks. Guessing you are exaggerating any ways.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  25. #25
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    I thought they were about that much. My point anyway is that I made one for free.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by atxjax
    I thought they were about that much. My point anyway is that I made one for free.
    Free is always good. Seen one made out of half a electric crimper/wire cutter/
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  27. #27
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    The parts should just be bolt on. All I have to do is remove the rear cassette and put it on the new wheels along with the rotors. The calipers bolt on and the hardest thing to do would be to route the cables all correctly.

  28. #28
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    Make sure you cut the cable housing flat, not at an angle and after you cut use a nail or pick to make sure the opening is round and smooth.


    Quote Originally Posted by atxjax
    The parts should just be bolt on. All I have to do is remove the rear cassette and put it on the new wheels along with the rotors. The calipers bolt on and the hardest thing to do would be to route the cables all correctly.

  29. #29
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    Good advice. Thanks.

  30. #30
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    I started with my conversion this morning. I picked up some new slime presta tubes and some tire liners to try to avoid any more flats on the trails.

    All is going well. I haven't got the parts yet but they should be here today. I've watched a few videos and read over the instructions on how to install the BB7's.

    I ran into a small aesthetical snag. Looks like the mounting studs on the front fork where the V-Brakes used to be do not come off. Is this correct?


  31. #31
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    They unscrew if you dont want to keep them on. The same should go for the ones on the bike frame.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  32. #32
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    They should screw right out.
    You can cover the remaining holes with a set of Boss Plugs.
    Example:
    http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cg...id=22525837098

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maui323
    They should screw right out.
    You can cover the remaining holes with a set of Boss Plugs.
    Example:
    http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cg...id=22525837098


    They are not coming out for me. Are they reverse thread? I've tried left loosey and they are not coming out.

    I will try to apply a bit of heat to them and see if that loosens them.

  34. #34
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    Should be lefty loosey.
    They'll be tight & probably loc-tited in.

  35. #35
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    Yep. I used my small propane torch and heated up the studs until they were getting almost red. They had alot of loctite on them.

    Thanks for the heads up.

  36. #36
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    The plugs should work if you can find them.
    I just used somc cap screws as they were easy to find and cheap.
    It doesn't matter but I didn't want the brake boss holes getting filled with crude and corroded.

  37. #37
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    None of my LBS carry those plastic threaded cap screws. It's ot worth buying them online since it will cost more to ship than the screws are worth. Im just going to the nut and bolt place and find me some stainless cap screws and cut them down to size.

    I should have the conversion done by the morning of 04/02/2010.

    if I run into any other snags I'll chime in here for some help.

  38. #38
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    Take the stud you removed and go into a hardware store and look for a button head bolt that has the same thread diameter and length.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  39. #39
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    Yeah. Thats what I plan to do. if I dont find a button head one then I can go with a hex cap one.

  40. #40
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    Most likely M10 on the fork and M8 on the rear.

  41. #41
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    if I recall correctly from this morning the front and rear are both the same. Im sure I can find some nice stainless ones in town and cut them down to size. That way the holes wont look all ghetto.

  42. #42
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    Fill the wholes with Bondo, add some paint
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

  43. #43
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    Thats exactly the ghetto Im refering to.....: )

  44. #44
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    Good news and bad news guys. The good news is that I am almost done. I have the new wheels, tubes, BB7's mounted and the front system is working 100%.

    Bad news is that I pulled such a newbie move cutting the cable I just wanted to punch myself. While measuring for the rear cable routing I totally forgot that I had the actual cable inside the housing and cut the housing correctly but now I am about 5 inches short on my rear brake cable ( <----dumbass )....

    So later today before I go to work I am off to my LBS to pick up a new cable. Once I get out of work I will install it and adjust the brake in the rear and I should be good to go after that. Pics to come once I am all finished.

  45. #45
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    Here is the completed conversion. I would say that on a scale of 1-10 of how hard it is to do this to me was a 3 or 4.

    Everything is bolt on. Running the cables is easy. The only thing that is kind of a pain is getting the brake calipers dialed in correctly.

    My rear rim isn't 100% true. So the brake pads rub in a certain spot on the rotor. I have never trued a wheel before so I have to either take it to a shop or figure out how to do it myself.

    I wound up finding some plastic clips that fit right in the hole where the hold V-brake bosses went. I got them at Lowes. They are like 82 cents each.

    Going on a ride tomorrow. I will need to ride around the neighborhood first to set the brake pads in. Tweak them a bit more before I go ride and see how they do.








  46. #46
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    My rear rim isn't 100% true. So the brake pads rub in a certain spot on the rotor. I have never trued a wheel before so I have to either take it to a shop or figure out how to do it myself.
    Having a rim out of true will not cause brake pads to rub on a disc setup. Having a rotor that is out of true will.
    My Bike: '15 Trek FX 7.2
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  47. #47
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    Hmmmm. I was trying to figure that out. Let me go take it off and put it on a flat surface and check it.

  48. #48
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    You can use a couple of adjustable wrenches to true you rotors . Nice work on the install , those plastic plugs are a great find .

  49. #49
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    Just spin the wheels slowly as you look down into the caliper... if its tweaked you should see it move back and forth.

    Mine where ever so slightly bent (I think a tiny amount is fairly normal) the trick is being able to get those pads parallel and as close as possible to the rotor without touching... keeping in mind only one (outer) pad moves when you apply the brakes with BB7's so the inner pad is the most crucial to set up.

    They take a little tinkering but dont give up, my BB7's wear very close performance wise to my new $200+ hydro brakes (took a hair more finger strength and had slightly less modulation) but very good. My buddy was complaining about his but it turned out that the pads/caliper where not exactly parallel to the rotor and the inner pad was a bit to far away so it was flexing to make contact under braking (felt spongy)

    Dont forget you need to brake in the pads after you get them feeling good and if you have the Speed Dial Levers those can make a big difference for the final feel (not used to set up the brakes)

    Quote Originally Posted by mojotrick
    Hmmmm. I was trying to figure that out. Let me go take it off and put it on a flat surface and check it.

  50. #50
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    I took the rotor off an dplace dit on my table. I ran a feeler gauge around the edges of it and couldn't get it to go in at any certain spot so the rotor to me is true. What maybe be untrue is the mounting surface on the hub. One spot had a small burr which I flattened out with a file. It's a bit better but still only rubbing in certain spots.

    I can get it dialed in without any rub. Maybe I can find the spot where it rubs then file the hub down opposite of where it rubs at. or just leave it as is...........

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