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  1. #1
    Needs more cowbell
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    Found a fix for avid hydros that dont have enough pad clearance

    after seeing this problem a few times while building bikes iv found that the reservoir is over filled, i believe that the pads were not completely reset when the reservoir was filled/bled. this does not allow the pads to be completely reset because there is no room in the reservoir. thus, you can never get the clearance needed to make the pads stop rubbing.

    you can correct this problem relatively easy.

    remove the wheel

    rotate the lever level

    remove the torx bleed screw atop the lever

    reset pads

    install bleed screw, wheel.

    you will get a small mount of dot to leak out of the lever, be sure to clean it up as dot can degrade some plastic/paint. it maybe wise to put a rag on the lever before doing all of this. in some cases it's necessary to remove the pads to gain more clearance.

    Hope this helps.

  2. #2
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    Hopefully people will read this instead of me having to repeat it over and over and over again. This applies not only to Avid brakes but to all other hydraulics as well.

  3. #3
    Needs more cowbell
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    indeed.

  4. #4
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    you will get a small mount of dot to leak out of the lever, be sure to clean it up as dot can degrade some plastic/paint
    I will get a small amount of Department of Transportation to leak out of the lever?!?!
    And I should be sure to clean it up as Department of Transportation can degrade some plastic/paint?!?! What the...?!?!


    Sorry!! I just couldn't pass it up!! Yes, I'm a smartarse!!

    Good post by the way - nugget of info everybody should file into the mental databanks.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    Make it sticky with removing 'Avid' from the title.
    voycaminandoenlacallemirandoalasmuchachas mirandoalasmuchachas hayunasrubiasgraciosasmorenashermosasypreciosas

  6. #6
    nnn
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    Or make a sticky called something like "Common disc brake issues and fixes"

  7. #7
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    thanks, I was just about to make a thread regarding this issue. haha
    I just got new pads and was so excited to get them in, but couldn't get the pistons to seat all the way without the other one coming out.

  8. #8
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    well I popped the bleed plug on my hayes 9 brake levers, and seated the pistons, installed new pads, and now the lever has a lot of throw. it also make a squishy/squeaky noise when I pull the trigger.

    is it possible air got into the system? what should I do?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by GetDirty
    well I popped the bleed plug on my hayes 9 brake levers, and seated the pistons, installed new pads, and now the lever has a lot of throw. it also make a squishy/squeaky noise when I pull the trigger.

    is it possible air got into the system? what should I do?
    Air went in, rebleed:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=138

    In the last step, just before you close the bleed nipple reset the pistons at the caliper.
    voycaminandoenlacallemirandoalasmuchachas mirandoalasmuchachas hayunasrubiasgraciosasmorenashermosasypreciosas

  10. #10
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    Do you recommend a specific bleed kit? I hear a syringe works much better than a bottle...???


    Thanks alot

  11. #11
    Meh.
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    Syringe and a clear length of plastic tubing. Having the MC fitting is nice and cuts down on the mess, but you can hack something together.

  12. #12
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    I think the advantage with the bottle is that the bottle can take air above the fluid, with a syringe maybe would be harder. I don't have experience with these brakes sorry.

    Your main task is actually to take the bubbles of air out, but you need extra fluid just to push it in while forcing the bubbles of air out above the fluid inside the bottle/syringe.

    Then remember, you reset the pistons and just immediately close the nipple.
    voycaminandoenlacallemirandoalasmuchachas mirandoalasmuchachas hayunasrubiasgraciosasmorenashermosasypreciosas

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