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  1. #1
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    Formula RX with new 2011 Magura Storm SL

    Just bought the rotors. Any reason why they shouldn't work together?

    I'm a noob at setting up brakes. Been running the brakes for a couple of months with Shimano anchor rotors. these appear to be really good. Is there anything I should know about potential adjustments?

    Thank you.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
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  2. #2
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    Thickness: iR1 rotors, are 1.7mm, the new Storm SL measures 1.9mm thickness. It's only 0.2mm difference, but it makes a whole difference in lever feel / travel.

  3. #3
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    so I imagine the lever travel is a little. Is the the pad clearance even tighter than they currently are?

  4. #4
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    When rotors are thicker, clearance will be less ...

  5. #5
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    Question Then is how wide will the brake pads separate. Didn't think to loosen the calipers, squeeze the brake, then tighten the calipers again. I'm looking forward to trying that.
    Me to my riding buddy, "Want to ride this afternoon?"
    Him, "I can't. I have to chop this guys foot off at 2".

  6. #6
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    I am also thinking of trying Storm SL rotors with my Formula RX brakes. Any updates on how well they work together?

  7. #7
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    I'm running Avid G2 cleansweeps with my RX brakes and they are working great, no noise either.
    Hardrock 29er, Niner EMD9, Cannondale F29, Camber Expert, 650b Nickel all gone.
    2014 Giant Anthem 27.5 here.

  8. #8
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    It works fine with the R1 so it shouldn't be a problem with RX brakes. The combination needs to be set up properly due to the tiny clearance but that's about it.

  9. #9
    Magura N. America Svc Mgr
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    Hello all

    Rotor thickness will have NO effect on pad clearance or distance between the pads when they are retracted.
    The caliper pads will retract their designed amount depending on the quad-seals flexibility in the caliper bores. The pads will retract their (approx) .25 mm each side no matter what rotor thickness.
    However, There will be MUCH better performance from a thicker rotor in both modulation, heat dissipation and long term durability.

    Enjoy your Storm SL rotors!
    Jude

  10. #10
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    Any more experiences with Formula brakes and Storm (SL) rotor?
    Before I order rotor I would like to be 100% sure that it works ok. Rotor thickness bothers me, Storm rotors are 0.2-0.3mm thicker, so when pads are new brakes could be impossible to set properly and would rub.

  11. #11
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    You'd only have to make sure your calipers are mounted correctly, nothing more. Nothing special Grab the lever, tighten the bolts, problem solved.

  12. #12
    DLd
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    You'd only have to make sure your calipers are mounted correctly, nothing more. Nothing special Grab the lever, tighten the bolts, problem solved.
    So, no need to re-bleed to get pad retraction to reset for the thicker rotors? Just a pull of the lever and realigning the calipers will do? Just asking to make sure. Thanks.
    "Great things are not accomplished by those who yield to trends and fads and popular opinion."-Jack Kerouac

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DLd View Post
    So, no need to re-bleed to get pad retraction to reset for the thicker rotors? Just a pull of the lever and realigning the calipers will do? Just asking to make sure. Thanks.
    No, no need for a bleed.

    When you retract your pads/pistons, all the excess fluid goes to the reservoir. When you fully retract the pistons, even with new pads, a RX formula has a lot of clearance. You'll need to pump the lever a few times so the pistons get closer to the rotor, and because of that, fluid will go from the reservoir into the line to fill the space caused by the pistons moving out.

    I've gone trough a few set of pads, and when I put in new pads, I retract the pistons fully in, center the caliper, pump the lever so the pistons go out, and since my brakes aren't new, one piston is sometimes a little slower , so you need to center the caliper by hand to get rid of the rubbing.

    If you brake is overfilled with fluid (ie, you've done a bleed with the pistons not fully retracted) then you won't be able to fully retract the pistons (if you push it, you could damage your membrane). Then you will need to do a bleed (remove excessive fluid from the brake).

    And if not too late - i run my RX with a 2mm thick rotor. No problems
    Last edited by Vuco; 12-15-2011 at 03:47 PM. Reason: edited some stuff

  14. #14
    DLd
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vuco View Post
    No, no need for a bleed.

    When you retract your pads/pistons, all the excess fluid goes to the reservoir. When you fully retract the pistons, even with new pads, a RX formula has a lot of clearance. You'll need to pump the lever a few times so the pistons get closer to the rotor, and because of that, fluid will go from the reservoir into the line to fill the space caused by the pistons moving out.

    I've gone trough a few set of pads, and when I put in new pads, I retract the pistons fully in, center the caliper, pump the lever so the pistons go out, and since my brakes aren't new, one piston is sometimes a little slower , so you need to center the caliper by hand to get rid of the rubbing.

    If you brake is overfilled with fluid (ie, you've done a bleed with the pistons not fully retracted) then you won't be able to fully retract the pistons easily. Then you will need to do a bleed (remove excessive fluid from the brake).

    And if not too late - i run my RX with a 2mm thick rotor. No problems
    Thanks!
    "Great things are not accomplished by those who yield to trends and fads and popular opinion."-Jack Kerouac

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