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  1. #1
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    Formula R1 master cilinder issue

    Has anybody else had some problems with their master cilinders (or has there been a recall)?

    Mine are leaking DOT at the breather holes. (and it is DOT, no water or whatever....)
    This became obvious after transporting the bike (bike not upright).
    At first I thought some spilled DOT after bleeding (after shortening hoses).
    But no, after drying of the DOT, using the bike for 2 weeks at Lago di Garda in Italy and driving back home the same thing happened.
    After examination the DOT keeps coming out, even while shaking the master cilinder...

    I have contacted Formula Italy and will post an update after receiving their answer.
    Note that my previous experience with Fomula customer service (directly from the factory) was great.

    So, I think it will be solved ok.

    BTW:
    The brakes perform great (apart from mentioned issue).
    A bit more power than my Oro K24 and much lighter.
    The brake pads do wear a bit quicker (organic) and on a very long and steep descent there was some minor overheating. The brake still worked, although the braking power was diminished a bit..
    Last edited by rapsac; 08-15-2009 at 07:02 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Update:

    My ebay reseller received a return number, so the brakes are sent to Formula. Will post the result when known.
    12 Anthem X29
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  3. #3
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    just a thought on the pad wear and overheating............

    Try one organic and one sintered pad on the caliper. I have had good success with this on my K18s. You get the some of the better heat handling of the sintered pads, but the feel of the organics.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  4. #4
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    I think the reason they run organics is to keep the heat in check. With sintered pads the brakes will run hotter and its so light it can't shed the heat. This leads to more brake fade due to fluid boiling or heat blown caliper seals.

  5. #5
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    Are these breather holes the ones that are facing the handle bar when the MC is mounted? What I mean is are they located in the concave area of the MC where the handlebar sits?

    I found some DOT fluid in this area when I recently removed the MC for a good cleaning. It looks like it had eaten away the finish of my carbon handlebar as well.

    I'll have to check it again this week.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckji
    Are these breather holes the ones that are facing the handle bar when the MC is mounted? What I mean is are they located in the concave area of the MC where the handlebar sits?
    Yes, those are the holes. After seeing this thread I went and checked my set (1 month old) and saw a small amount of fluid. Not what I wanted to see with such an expensive set of brakes....... I`d like to see what kind of a fix formula will be doing about that.

  7. #7
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    during bleeding mine its apparent that mine are leaking badly too....the finish on my carbon bar has been marked too.
    If I put the bleed syringe on one of the bleed ports and push/pull lightly I can feel a vacuum or pressure with my thumb if I put it over the bleed holes.

    How long do warrnaty turn arounds with formula take? Wondering if I should buy another pair to stick on my bike in the meantime and put the returned oens on wifes bike when they get back (assuming warranty covers this issue)

  8. #8
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    The hole is the breather for the rubber diaphragm that alows the fluid to expand and contract and allow for pad wear.My ones used to get damp and i never had any problems with them,but they did remove some finish from my monkeylight carbon bars.
    I think if you use the bleed kit to aggressively you can damage the diaphragm.

  9. #9
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    Checked for more leakage today and found some fluid on both front and rear MC's.
    I too am wondering how long it'll take for repair turn around and if the problem can be resolved permanently.
    I like the brakes, especially the weight, but if this is going to be a chronic issue I'll change them in a heartbeat - maybe new Sram XX...?? Plus with the DOT fluid continuously eating away at my handlebars, they'll have to be replaced too - before there is a catastrophic failure at the worst time!

  10. #10
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    im sure the problem can be repaired permanently - basic DOT fluid seals shouldnt be that much of an issue and TBH, im surprised there is even a problem like this from a proven brake manufacturer. Im prepared to trhow them a bone as it is a new lightweight brake and perhaps they just cut a few grammes too much.
    I hope Im right because I just forked out 350 (circa $500) for a pair of The Ones to tide me other whilst the R1s are away. I'm hoping the R1s being an older more established model have no issues.
    Im going to be angry at myself if I'm wrong and Ive spent close to $1000 on brakes from a poor manufacturer.
    I upgraded from the Elixir CRs to the R1s and TBH, they are significantly ahead in terms of weight, power and modulation. I would have a hard time compromising to go back to them. No sure what the XX are like obviously. My money and hope is backing Formula right now. Dont let me down guys!

  11. #11
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    I just went from formula the ones to avid elixir cr's.The ones are lighter but i am finding the avid a much better brake.Better lever feel better adjustablility,and pad wear seems very good.
    Dont think i would buy formulas again mainly because in the uk we struggle to get spares including no original pads for 2.5 months.

  12. #12
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    hmm......not sure I like the lever feel on the ones....seems to move a long way - can see it will give good modulation but I dont like having to pull it all the way to the bar almost to lock the wheels.....maybe it will change with a bit of pad bed in and a bleed....

    Just want my R1s back working again!

  13. #13
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    Bleeding might help.It takes ages to get it right and then the pad wears out and you lose the feel again.They are excellent with new pads but these soon wear and you have lots of lever travel.There are quite a few threads about this in this forum.
    You have to get it right when you bleed formula the ones i found i had to take the rear off of the bike to get a good bleed.Or stand the bike vertically and move the lever around so the bleed port is at the highest position,Read the formula instruction on there website not in the bleed kit.

  14. #14
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    I'll have to contact Formula USA and see what they say about a repair. I might just wait a couple of months, just to get through the rest of the season. I'd hate to send them out and then not be able to ride for or one, two, three... months.
    I guess what really upsets me is the damage being done to my carbon handlebars, because I'll have to replace them. I wonder if Formula would pay for the replacement...?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckji
    I guess what really upsets me is the damage being done to my carbon handlebars, because I'll have to replace them. I wonder if Formula would pay for the replacement...?
    Yeah, I'm doing the same thing. I want to keep riding until the season's over but I don't want to destroy my bars. So what I've done is taken off my levers and wrapped a thin piece of plastic (~ 3cm x 10cm) around the bar where the lever clamps to, then replaced the lever. So far (1 week) I've had a bit more leakage but the plastic appears ok.

    Not a real fix, just something to get me by until a proper fix is ready.

  16. #16
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    seven hours later and some bedding in has solved the issue with The Ones. Stopping power is restored but lever travel is long. It makes sense given the downhill intended use of the brakes - means you can keep a tighter hold of the bar and not have your brake finger(s) so extended. I could see I could begint o quite like these actually.
    I wonder how the R1 master cylinders would work with the One callipers.....they have the same connection methods and i might try that when I get the R1s back.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapsac
    Has anybody else had some problems with their master cilinders (or has there been a recall)?

    Mine are leaking DOT at the breather holes. (and it is DOT, no water or whatever....)
    This became obvious after transporting the bike (bike not upright).
    At first I thought some spilled DOT after bleeding (after shortening hoses).
    But no, after drying of the DOT, using the bike for 2 weeks at Lago di Garda in Italy and driving back home the same thing happened.
    After examination the DOT keeps coming out, even while shaking the master cilinder...

    I have contacted Formula Italy and will post an update after receiving their answer.
    Note that my previous experience with Formula customer service (directly from the factory) was great.

    So, I think it will be solved ok.

    BTW:
    The brakes perform great (apart from mentioned issue).
    A bit more power than my Oro K24 and much lighter.
    The brake pads do wear a bit quicker (organic) and on a very long and steep descent there was some minor overheating. The brake still worked, although the braking power was diminished a bit..
    Hi,
    Any news on your F1 brakes? My MC is also leaking DOT. And has also damaged the paint job of my carbon handlebar too. I've only had F1 R1 for 1 1/2 months. Can it be fixed or should my LBS replace them??
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  18. #18
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    I received news that my brakes have been repaired. The membranes have been replaced.
    I expect them early next week in the mail.

    rapsaC
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