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  1. #1
    ~Reformed Mechanic~
    Reputation: Ace5high's Avatar
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    Formula ORO K18 Opinions?

    I was about to pick up a set of used Magura Marta Sl's on Ebay. There were a few used sets with "bleeding" issues going for $75 bucks or so. After speaking with the seller turns out they could not be bled after many mechanics have tried and they were not working properly THEN the bidding for these went up to $175 +

    So Instead I found a seller of brand new Formula oro K18's full set for $140 Bucks NEW. After reviewing the specs the the SL's were only a few grams heavier and sounds like many people had issues with air getting trapped in the Marta's anyway....

    I figure even though Formula is making their new line of brakes these only need to last a year or so until Im ready to upgrade and Ive read many great things about them, anyone using the K18's ?

  2. #2
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    Reputation: hrdude's Avatar
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    The Formulas are fine brakes. I have been using Oro's for many trouble free years. For $140. you can't go wrong.

  3. #3
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    Formula K 18 Brakes

    Great brake with good modulation, no fade, and good power. Bleeding them sucks though...

  4. #4
    Let the good times roll.
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    Oros are great. My bike has K24s, and I've been really happy with them. The lever feels a bit soft which can be a bit disconcerting at first. Performance on the trail is excellent though. Power is plentiful and easy to control. Fade resistance is amazing. I only manage to get slight fade under extremely harsh conditions. For normal DH riding, I usually find that performance actually improves as the brakes warm up from ambient temperature. Bleeding does require patience and carefully following directions, but I don't mind. I only do that a couple times per year.

    I've ridden a few bikes with Martas and was never impressed. They feel fine in the parking lot with a very firm lever and enough power for easy stoppies. But on the trail I found that I had to squeeze the levers harder than my Oros to get the stopping power I'm used to. I also noticed a bit of fade after hard use.

    Don't forget to burn in your new brakes.

  5. #5
    ~Reformed Mechanic~
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    Quote Originally Posted by miniwisejosh View Post
    Oros are great. My bike has K24s, and I've been really happy with them. The lever feels a bit soft which can be a bit disconcerting at first. Performance on the trail is excellent though. Power is plentiful and easy to control. Fade resistance is amazing. I only manage to get slight fade under extremely harsh conditions. For normal DH riding, I usually find that performance actually improves as the brakes warm up from ambient temperature. Bleeding does require patience and carefully following directions, but I don't mind. I only do that a couple times per year.

    I've ridden a few bikes with Martas and was never impressed. They feel fine in the parking lot with a very firm lever and enough power for easy stoppies. But on the trail I found that I had to squeeze the levers harder than my Oros to get the stopping power I'm used to. I also noticed a bit of fade after hard use.

    Don't forget to burn in your new brakes.
    Thanks for the good feeback all!

    How do you find the stock brake pads to perform? I put some aftermarket sintered pads on my Elixir 3's and I lost stopping power... Not that I had much to begin with

    What do you recommend for proper burn in on the oro's ?

  6. #6
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    I think K18s come stock with organic pads. Those are nice for milder XC terrain. I tend to be pretty aggressive, so I prefer the Formula sintered pads. Initial bite is a bit weaker especially when they are parking-lot cold and modulation is a bit worse (still very good though). The benefits are improved maximum braking power, better wet performance, and longer pad life. Sintered pads also seem to be a bit quieter. I haven't done much experimenting with aftermarket pads.


    For break in: Make sure you start with completely clean rotors. Scrub 'em with some medical alcohol. Get as much speed as possible (maybe 15 20 mph in a sprint) and break to a near stop. Repeat at least 10 times. More if you still have energy. It's great interval training . Do not stop completely and do not lock the wheel. After you rest up a bit, do the whole process again a couple times before going to a trail. It's much easier if you have a nice long hill (but be careful since the break will be very weak at first). The whole point of this process is to get an even layer of pad material on the rotor. Pad transfer requires heat and that means repeated hard stops. Allowing the wheel to stop completely would give an uneven spot and reduce performance.

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