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  1. #1
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    Formula The One 2010 caliper bore cap tool

    Hi,


    this is mostly a question to CNC machinists among us, I guess. I'm looking for a tool that would allow one to get inside Formula The One 2010 caliper by unscrewing the bore cap. It's strange that caliper seals, pistons and bore caps are being sold, but not the tool.
    26" faithful.

  2. #2
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    Will a bolt head fit
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  3. #3
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    Have you checked if a Torx bit would fit?

  4. #4
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    dogonfr,
    do you mean trying to wedge the head of a large 6-sided bolt in there? I'm afraid that will ruin the cap, there's 20 Nm torque required to tighten it. o_O I'd very much prefer to have a matching tool machined..


    car_nut,
    if the cap can take a Torx, it must be a HUGE one! There are 6 splines too, but the shape seems to be different. From the Torx size table at Wikipedia, T70 (large Torx bits come as sockets) may work. There's 16 mm point to point in Formula cap. Thanks for the idea!
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  5. #5
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    I've come across similar size Torx heads here and there. Check with an industrial hardware store or local auto parts/heavy equipment dealer and see if they have any drivers in stock. They probably won't be cheap but you can at least test fit them and see if it'll work.

  6. #6
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    Yes, that's my plan!
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  7. #7
    007
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    This may be a bit naive, but have you tried contacting Formula?

  8. #8
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    No, I haven't )
    I keep reading everywhere that the tool is only supplied to their dealers.. the FAQ on their site says, essentially, that I should contact nearest Formula dealer to get my brake repaired. Which I don't want to do, as the fix very probably involves just a replacement of seals.. I did this on other brakes myself and very much prefer this way.
    26" faithful.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    No, I haven't )
    I keep reading everywhere that the tool is only supplied to their dealers.. the FAQ on their site says, essentially, that I should contact nearest Formula dealer to get my brake repaired. Which I don't want to do, as the fix very probably involves just a replacement of seals.. I did this on other brakes myself and very much prefer this way.
    Are you in good with the shop/mechs? See if they'll let you borrow it . . . I do this periodically from my shop. Give em' a 12-pack and the tools just fly off the shelf!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    Are you in good with the shop/mechs? See if they'll let you borrow it . . . I do this periodically from my shop. Give em' a 12-pack and the tools just fly off the shelf!
    Nope, won't work, as I'm a mechanic myself around here, and I've got more special tools than most local shops. What I can do is ask someone who works at a large machine plant to make me this or that. I just guessed that maybe someone at MTBR who works with metal (like mtnbiker4life) had already done this tool.

    If I only had a compact lathe/milling machine..
    26" faithful.

  11. #11
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    Are you sure that you need the bore cap tool to do the repair? On many brake systems the pistons will come out without having to remove the bore cap. The bore cap is just there to blank off the only route the manufacturer had to machine the piston bores.

    If this is the case, then compressed air applied to the brake line port on the caliper will get the pistons out. Pop the one furthest away from the brake line first (if you do it the other way you will not be able to force the remaining piston out no matter how much compressed air you use). This is how I serviced my Hygia SLPs but you may be able to do the formulas the same way.

  12. #12
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    Many mechanics use a bolt with a double nut as a special tool when their is not one available or the tool is pre production/not available yet. Their are six angles contacting, sorry for my poor advise, Ride On
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  13. #13
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    TigWorld,
    Formula The One seem to be doable that way. If it happens so that I'll need the brake mounted before I manage to open up the caliper, then I'll do it like that.

    By the way, I've been reading your articles for a while now -- great stuff. What especially impressed me so far are your mods to old suspension forks and the one about Hollowtech 2 crankset Q-factor reduction.
    26" faithful.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    By the way, I've been reading your articles for a while now -- great stuff. What especially impressed me so far are your mods to old suspension forks and the one about Hollowtech 2 crankset Q-factor reduction.
    Cheers man.

  15. #15
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    I thought, what the hell. And decided, from lack of patience, to try removing pistons through pad bay with air pressure method. Auto stores around here are closed for holidays, so Torx T70 test fit has to wait.

    As I don't have a compressor, I had to use track pump. The whole process was a combination of ad-hockery on the scale I wanted to avoid in the first place. It's hard to not think of how easy it would have been with the proper tool. The improvised means I used were: a piece of inner tube, a large coin and a zip tie, all of which held inboard piston in place without its seal, so as to provide more resistance to air. The biggest problem was, however, to provide air pass-through from pump chuck (press-on type) to caliper fluid intake port. I used a Presta valve stem and a piece of medical infusion kit which holds the needle.

    What I found inside was a defective outboard quad ring. It had a mold remnant and when they inserted the piston at factory, it must have caught on that and crushed a section of the ring, which is now damaged. A replacement ring may fix the leaking problem, I'll try that.


    PS
    I still want the tool, though. )
    26" faithful.

  16. #16
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    I was told by Formula that they do not want consumers messing with the bore cover , as the material is soft and the required torque high (havn't confirmed the 20 nm stated above- anyone know the correct torque spec. for sure? My LBS/ Formula dealer has agreed to order the gold bore covers and claims to have experience replacing them, so I hope they have the factory tool as well ? Any thoughts?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggymancan View Post
    I was told by Formula that they do not want consumers messing with the bore cover , as the material is soft and the required torque high (havn't confirmed the 20 nm stated above- anyone know the correct torque spec. for sure? My LBS/ Formula dealer has agreed to order the gold bore covers and claims to have experience replacing them, so I hope they have the factory tool as well ? Any thoughts?
    I did not just think up the 20 Nm value.. see this PDF document at Formula USA site.

    Your LBS should have the tool, if they are a Formula dealer.
    26" faithful.

  18. #18
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    Official word from Formula is that while the various colored Bore caps have been listed (overseas) as a replacement part, Formula does not suggest removing them. This is due to high torque/soft materials and doing so will void the warranty. They view it as a factory only deal, with the tool not available even to qualified dealers. Guess I will black mine out with a sharpee instead. Probably not smart to paint the cover as it is aluminum designed as a heat sink to cool the fluid to some degree, I suspect. Any thoughts?

  19. #19
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    Looks like the torque spec JRP is reading is for the caliper bolts and not the bore bolt which explains the low torque spec.
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  20. #20
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    buggymancan,
    there's not much surface area on that cap.. if you would like to preserve its role as forced convection heatsink, I'd suggest not covering it with any extra layers of substance.


    dogonfr,
    why, there are pictures telling what threaded parts on what Formula calipers should be torqued to what values. Mega caliper is 2-piece and is held together with steel bolts, The One is 1-piece and the cap is made of what they call "Ergal 7075" -- where Ergal is Italian for 7xxx series aluminum alloys I think. The term "caliper screw" used in that document to generalize over these caliper threaded parts is likely made up by the author(s).
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Random Psycho View Post
    buggymancan,
    there's not much surface area on that cap.. if you would like to preserve its role as forced convection heatsink, I'd suggest not covering it with any extra layers of substance.


    dogonfr,
    why, there are pictures telling what threaded parts on what Formula calipers should be torqued to what values. Mega caliper is 2-piece and is held together with steel bolts, The One is 1-piece and the cap is made of what they call "Ergal 7075" -- where Ergal is Italian for 7xxx series aluminum alloys I think. The term "caliper screw" used in that document to generalize over these caliper threaded parts is likely made up by the author(s).
    And I stand corrected you are correct, Skoll
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