I realize both of these fixes have been mentioned here before, but they are both embedded deep in various threads.
I have had problems with my front RX brake rubbing from the day I bought my bike (a Rocky Mountain Element 50 MSL Alloy). I've spent countless hours researching and trying to align my brake so it wouldn't rub. Also the front brake lever contact point was out further than the rear and was not real comfortable. The back brake was fine.
So i finally emailed Formula (shoulda done it 3 months ago) and they gave the tips below. I did both fixes. The top I did twice and it helped the lever contact point be more in the middle. The bottom fix was the real winner. I could see as i pumped out my pistons that my inboard piston was sticking. So I held the outboard piston which forced out the inboard. That way I could get both pistons pumped out. I was amazed how much difference it made. I was about to ditch these for XT's and add a few ounces - happy I didn't. My brakes don't rub and i have plenty of clearance. Now I'm very happy with my brakes. Hope this helps (rep me if you find this helpful )
TIPS from Formula
1) Check to make sure the brake is not overfilled. DOT fluid absorbs water over time and will act overfilled because of it, limiting the distance the pads can rollback (the action of the pads moving away from the rotor).
a. To do this, remove the wheel and wedge a spacer between the pads that will push and hold the caliper pistons as far into the caliper as possible. If you have the Formula spacer that came with the brake that is best, if not another manufacturer’s plastic spacer will do, as a last resort you can use a large flat blade screwdriver. Make sure whatever you use is clean. If you’re not sure, clean it with alcohol to prevent pad contamination.
b. Leave the spacer wedged in the caliper and unscrew the bleed port screw at the lever, do not remove the bleed port screw only crack the seal and have a paper towel handy to soak up any fluid that may come out. Do not pull on the lever only allow the fluid to flow out of the bleed port.
c. Tighten the bleed port screw to finger tight, over tightening will damage the o-ring. This will ensure the fluid level is proper.
d. Clean the lever with alcohol to neutralize the DOT fluid and prevent the paint from bubbling.
2) If the first step did not work you can try cleaning the caliper pistons
a. With the brake on the bike, remove the wheel and brake pads. If you have the spacer that came with the brakes put it in the caliper where the rotor travels through. This is to prevent the caliper pistons from being ejected from the caliper.
b. Once you have a spacer between the pads, pull on the lever to expose the sides of the pistons.
c. Spray alcohol on the sides of the pistons. Do not use any type of aerosol spray or degreaser.
d. Push the pistons back into the caliper wet with alcohol. You may repeat this process more than once.
e. Install pads and wheel. The brake’s rollback (the action of the pads moving away from the rotor) will increase once all of the alcohol has dried.
What this does is increases the friction between the caliper piston and the caliper piston seal (quadring). The way the pads rollback after pulling on the brake is the friction between the piston and quadring deforms the quadring. After releasing the brake the quadring springs back to its original shape pulling the piston and brake pad away from the rotor. This is why it’s a bad idea to use DOT fluid to free a stuck piston unless you intend on cleaning with alcohol afterwards. Friction is your friend
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Thread: Formula Brake Pad Clearance FIX!