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Thread: which end?

  1. #1
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    which end?

    i'm new to all this. i'm in the final stages of building my bike. i'd like to install the brakes myself. i have avid BB7s.

    which end of the cable goes to the brakes? and do i cut off that chunk? it seems like it has to route through a little guide thing, and there's no way to get it on w/o losing the chunk.

    a step by step would be nice, but any help is appreciated. sorry for being a newb still... it happens

    cheers, fellas.
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  2. #2
    LDH
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    cut left side off, right side fits any modern MTB lever.

  3. #3
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    Cut the one furtherest from the nipple off. You don't need that one.

    The main thing you want to do is cut the housing to its propper lengths. (take the cable out first after you cut the end off). Look at pics of other people's bikes to get a feel for routing and how it shlould look

    - Mount your brake levers to the bar and brakes to the frame
    - Take the black housing and place one end in the brake lever and see how much length you'll need to get to the first cable stop making sure you have enough play to turn the bars, but not too much.
    - Do the same thing with the left over piece and start from the next cable stop to where it would go into the brake.

    Depending on the frame, a lot of folks will run the housing from lever to brake to prevent muck from getting in. (using same cable guides as hydraulic brakes).

    Good luck!

  4. #4
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    Check out the Park Tools repair section.

  5. #5
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    That looks like one of the cheap cables, hopefully it's not. Good housing and cable is really nice to have. Gives a lot better feel to the BB7s.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    That looks like one of the cheap cables, hopefully it's not. Good housing and cable is really nice to have. Gives a lot better feel to the BB7s.
    it is cheap cable... damn it! good eye. i put a lot of money into many of the components on this bike... didn't think cables had to be one of them. what would you suggest? cables... housing... housing w/ cables... point me in the right direction.

    i'll use this stuff for a while, but i'm sure i'll upgrade soon enough.

    thanks for the tips, trey. i'll get going on this.
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  7. #7
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    Eh, generic bulk cables are fine. Bulk housing is fine too as long as it's prepared correctly. The ends have to be cut nice and flat, open up the inner lining with an awl. Runs should be smooth and flowing. Lube the cable with something like Rock n Roll Cable Magic, Boeshield T9, etc.

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    The bulk housing just compresses, moves, and flexes and the bulk cable takes a little while to get all the stretch out. That extra metal piece for use on old drop levers gives the cables away. I bought a $20 Avid cable set and it's a lot better than the $2.29 bulk cable. I still use bulk cable on my bikes where good brake performance isn't as important (all my fixed gear e-brakes). I also started using a real cable cutter instead of a diagonal cutter. Much better. No frayed strands. I'll have to get some housing tools next.

  9. #9
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    so i can lose that thing on the right hand side? loose metal chunker?

    these will do for now. as long as they pull those brakes, i'll take my time on the upgrade, methinks. thanks though!
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  10. #10
    bui
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    If you're talking about the "chunk" of metal on the end of the cable on the right, please don't cut that. That goes into your lever blade, so your brakes actually work.

    You ran this race with no real heart
    Yeah right back at the start
    You'd already lost it

  11. #11
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    Bronze boobies!

  12. #12
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    No... you need the one on the right hand side... Isn't it pretty obvious when you hold it next to the lever?

    So pre-stretch the cables... They work fine.

  13. #13
    bui
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    You might need this site:

    http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/index.htm

    Pretty simple instructions.

    You ran this race with no real heart
    Yeah right back at the start
    You'd already lost it

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schmucker
    The bulk housing just compresses, moves, and flexes and the bulk cable takes a little while to get all the stretch out. That extra metal piece for use on old drop levers gives the cables away. I bought a $20 Avid cable set and it's a lot better than the $2.29 bulk cable. I still use bulk cable on my bikes where good brake performance isn't as important (all my fixed gear e-brakes). I also started using a real cable cutter instead of a diagonal cutter. Much better. No frayed strands. I'll have to get some housing tools next.
    That's over generalizing a bit, there are various quality levels available in bulk quantities, ie: good quality stainless steel cables and nice lined housing (Shimano, Jagwire, etc) can be purchased in bulk boxes.

    Larry
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventanarama
    That's over generalizing a bit, there are various quality levels available in bulk quantities, ie: good quality stainless steel cables and nice lined housing (Shimano, Jagwire, etc) can be purchased in bulk boxes.

    Larry
    Mountain High Cyclery
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    Yeah, I used to only buy Shimano stuff in bulk back in the day and it was great stuff.

    If you look for a branded cable like Jagwire, Shimano, Avid, etc etc, you'll be fine. They do work a little better and last longer after getting bent and banged. There are also options to better seal the cables from crud with some of the better brands. Some even have some pretty colors and carbon/Kevlar patterns to choose from if you're into that sort of thing.

  16. #16
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    No cables work well after being bent/kinked. There's excessive drag.

  17. #17
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    the chunk i thought was in question was near the housing on the right. i actually don't have the levers in my possession yet...

    as for the bulk cable... it's jag-wire. guess i'm fine? thanks for the link bui.

    bronze boobies ftw!
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  18. #18
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    "cut left side off, right side fits any modern MTB lever."
    "Cut the one furtherest from the nipple off. You don't need that one."


  19. #19
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    this is the chunk i thought was in question. Schmucker mentioned something about a chunk of metal giving the cheapness away.

    wtf is that thing?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mallanaga
    this is the chunk i thought was in question. Schmucker mentioned something about a chunk of metal giving the cheapness away.

    wtf is that thing?
    cheap bmx cables comes with that. its a sort of ferrules that you don't probably need. you can get rid of it. cut the chunk you see on the left and pull the cable housing out of the cable. then throw that encircled thing out. buy yourself 5mm ferrules and replace what you have thrown. you will need more ferrules if you have to cut your brake housing (frame dependent). if your cable is teflon coated, you don't need to oil it.

    edit: buy yourself end caps too so your cable won't fray.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  21. #21
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    That's legacy hardware I always see them in use on old drop levers with external routing.
    Last edited by Schmucker; 01-29-2008 at 06:43 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek
    cheap bmx cables comes with that. its a sort of ferrules that you don't probably need. you can get rid of it. cut the chunk you see on the left and pull the cable housing out of the cable. then throw that encircled thing out. buy yourself 5mm ferrules and replace what you have thrown. you will need more ferrules if you have to cut your brake housing (frame dependent). if your cable is teflon coated, you don't need to oil it.

    edit: buy yourself end caps too so your cable won't fray.
    His cable isn't teflon coated though. If it is... I recommend against lube... as it could dissolve the teflon and just get gunked up.

    Yeah... you'll all see those ferrules on old drop levers. I doubt you'll even have to buy ferrules, stop by your LBS and they'll give you some. They'll give you the "cable condoms" too.

  23. #23
    BVK
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    Check the parktool.com, they have a lot of procedures incl. BB7 installation, maybe even something on cables. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=124 and http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=113

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