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  1. #1
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    elixir (and general hydraulic brake) question

    I have a set of elixir crs, which seem to vary between feeling great and feeling not so great, as in I have to adjust the contact point adjustment all the way out to get the contact point not even as far out as I want it. It seems to me that the adjustment range was much wider when I got them last year. The brakes didnt feel spongy though. A while back a friend of mine who worked at a shop told me that the way to test for air in the levers is to hold up the bike vertically so the front end points straight up, so any air in the master cylinder will rise a little ways out of the MC and into the (now) highest point in the line, so then when you pull the lever it will go close to or hit the bar. (and when you put the bike back down , the bubbles will rise back into the mc and the levers will firm up again.) But, this means its time for a bleed. I gave it a bleed, and had trouble, couldnt get the air out. I've never had a problem bleeding my other hydraulics. So I brought it to my lbs for a bleed.
    Got it back and brakes felt solid and contact point farther from the bar at first...however, later I noticed that the reason for that was he changed the lever reach adjustment to the furthest out postion (I had them, and like them, in the middle, to match my hand size) so when I changed that back, the bite point adjustment was out of whack again, turn it all the way out and the levr is not out as far as I want. Also, I then did the aforementioned vertical bike test and sure enough, the levers softened up (but not as much as before, and one side more than the others, and they firmed back up when I put the bike back down).
    Before I bring the bike back to the shop, I would like an answer to this question. Is it possible that the phenomenon my friend told me about actually would commonly happen with well-bled, functioning brakes: meaning that its difficult to get every last tiny bit of air out, and that small bubbles may rise up and reside in the master cylinder without adversely affecting braking performance? They seem to feel bled now in my driveway, but I wont know for sure until I'm going downhill in a trail. If this is true, and air isnt the issue, then what the heck is going on with the contact point not being able to be moved out as far as i want? where I want it is not excessive, and I really dont think that the pad contact adjutment barrel should be moved all the out to get it there. Any help would be appreciated, I really want to get these brakes working for me, as when they're solid they are fantastic, and I want to put them on my new Banshee Rune next week. Thanks.
    Last edited by dwyooaj; 04-01-2010 at 07:52 PM.

  2. #2
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    tldr. Needs paragraph breaks.

  3. #3
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    huh- itried to edit it and put in paragraph brakes, but didnt let me... oh well. Sorry for the long post but just wanted to put all the relevant info in.

  4. #4
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    Someone will probably come along with better info...

    I have two sets Elixir R's one is always perfect and one the feel changes a little from ride to ride. The one that felt a hair off would get real spongy after flipping the bike upside down for a bit... anyway it took me 2 tries to get a perfect bleed, now they feel like the others.

    My GUESS is you need to bleed them again, I have read here that the Elixir bleed is a little trickier than most (I cant say, the Elixir's are the only brakes I have ever had to bleed)



    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj
    huh- itried to edit it and put in paragraph brakes, but didnt let me... oh well. Sorry for the long post but just wanted to put all the relevant info in.

  5. #5
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    Air can get trapped near the top of the line.I have taken to pushing the fluid back and forth between the syringes a few times. More often than not this gets a bubble it would have missed otherwise.
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  6. #6
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    It needs re-bleeding.
    I had this on my rear brake,and in the end i had to remove the lever assembly from the bars when bleeding it and tip it so the bleed port was at the highest point.I then bled it,I also gently tapped the pipes and caliper body and lever body to release any trapped air bubbles.

    I have never had any problems since.

  7. #7
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    I'm having the same problem with my Elixir R-SL's....the front one has almost no power (can pull the lever to the bar) when the front tire is up. I've bled the thing 3 times now and it feels better than when I first bled it.
    I'm starting to lean towards leaving it for a while because it has lots of power when in a usual riding position. Might try to bleed it in the position it is giving me trouble with and see if that helps. Any other tips??

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BizMarkie
    I'm having the same problem with my Elixir R-SL's....the front one has almost no power (can pull the lever to the bar) when the front tire is up. I've bled the thing 3 times now and it feels better than when I first bled it.
    I'm starting to lean towards leaving it for a while because it has lots of power when in a usual riding position. Might try to bleed it in the position it is giving me trouble with and see if that helps. Any other tips??
    This will take some explaining......often once line shortening takes place, the screw at the lever end is not tightened sufficiently as it will turn the bite point adjustment rather than screwing in. This has been the source of continual air leakage in 2 sets of elixirs I have had. If you can use 1 spanner to brace the adjustment barrel, and one to tighten the screw then you may get up to a turn more - and hopefully less air in.
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  9. #9
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    Don't do the dripless thing, final bolt in the caliper turn the caliper so thats horizontal, screw the little bolt nearly all the way in ( some air WILL be trapped there ), then Squeeze the lever fully to the bars then tighten the bolt ( Lever still to the bars ).

    That gets rid of that possible air source and also makes sure there is some room in the expansion chamber.

    Works with Juicys anyway.

  10. #10
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    So I bled the Sl's again but this time tipped the bike up on the back tire and turned the lever so the bleed port was the highest point on the lever. Did 2 bleeds like this and got a LOT of excess air out of the system.
    Brakes seem to be firm no matter wht position the lever is in. I also made sure that one point in the brake line was the highest point in the whole system not sure if that had anything to do with my success.
    Anyways, thanks for the tips.
    Cheers

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