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  1. #1
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    Elixir CR Pad Engagement Adjust

    I have a problem with the brakes on my new bike. The pad engagement point is not adjustable by twisting the red tapered barrel... pad engagement point doesn't change, the barrels cannot be spun 2 full turns as is suggested in the users manual, and there are no "clicks" when spinning the barrels as is suggested.

    I heard in another thread that some Elixirs were shipped with too much brake fluid and I'd need to evacuate some of the excess fluid by removing the bleed screw at the lever and pushing the pistons back into their bores.

    Has this been the case for other Elixir owners? Should I try this?

  2. #2
    AZ
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    If you bought your bike locally , return it to the LBS and let them do it . If you cant do that , remove the bleed screw and gently push the pistons back into the bores .

  3. #3
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    I bought mail order. I like to do my own work anyway.

    When you mention gently pushing the pistons back into the bores, do you mean by using the red plastic pad spreader tool that came with the brakes?

    I also heard I should have some isopropyl alcohol handy to clean up the DOT 5.1 fluid that comes out at the lever so it won't eat up the finish on any of my components..

    Thank you!

  4. #4
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    Yea, either isopropyl alcohol or even windex works, just make sure to use it liberally, you dont want your paint getting eaten up

  5. #5
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    All you need to clean up DOT 5.1 is water.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the cleanup suggestions.

    Do I need to push the pistons all the way back into their bores to get rid of the excess fluid? I believe I could do this using the spreader that came with the brakes for shipping.

    I don't currently own a bleed kit and I don't want to put my bike out of commission for a week while I wait for one to ship to me. So I don't want to spread the pistons too far / evacuate too much fluid...

  7. #7
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    The Avid pad contact point (love that abbreviation PCP) adjustment doesn't actually move the pads, it's just a bite point adjustment for the lever. I'll have to go look but don't remember anything about clicks on the PCP (mine don't click in any case), just the reach adjustment; are you pulling the rubber seal down to reduce friction when you adjust the PCP barrel?
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  8. #8
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    Thank you for your feedback.

    So far I only adjusted lever reach and I found that I was clamping to close to the grip (pinching my fingers) before I got any braking... not good!

    I haven't pulled down the rubber seal yet but I will try that. I did notice when I was spinning the red barrel, the rubber boot and brake hose was turning along with it. Maybe that's the reason why I was having trouble twisting the barrel enough to make a significant impact on the PCP.

    I don't need to adjust the pads (they couldn't get any closer). I just want to make the brakes more effective with less lever travel.

    I'll try this before opening up the bleed ports.

  9. #9
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    If im not mistaken the Codes are downhill oriented, so if you are looking to put it on a downhill bike, go with the codes.

  10. #10
    human dehumidifier
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    Seems to me that draining some fluid would bring the lever even closer to the bar.
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  11. #11
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    I had more success after I rolled down the rubber boots around the PCP adjustment barrels. I need to shorten my FR brake line anyway so I ordered a brake bleed kit from Pricepoint and I'll go ahead and bleed the brakes to optimize them when I get my kit in a few days.

    I'll let you know how a full bleed affects the performance of the brakes.

    I would avoid removing those bleed port screws if you don't have a bleed kit. The fact is that the only way for fluid to come out is if it is replaced by air. If you don't have a bleed kit available you could find yourself stuck with a bike with inadequate brakes.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by billips1002
    I haven't pulled down the rubber seal yet but I will try that. I did notice when I was spinning the red barrel, the rubber boot and brake hose was turning along with it. Maybe that's the reason why I was having trouble twisting the barrel enough to make a significant impact on the PCP.
    Yes, definitely pull down the rubber boot on the pad contact point barrel thing. Hold that silver bolt that is now exposed tightly, then turn the red barrel adjusted to your liking. By doing so, the hose will not turn. When finished, simply slip the boot back on. Voila! Works like a charm.

    I miss the old red knob for pad contact point adjusting that were on my Juicy 7s.

  13. #13
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    Well I was able to adjust my PCP's to provide the least amount of freeplay in the lever possible but I still feel there's too much lever travel for my liking.

    So as a next step I've ordered an Avid bleed kit and I'm going to bleed my brakes myself. I needed to shorten my FR brake line anyway so I would have had to buy the kit and bleed that brake anyway...

    I'll let you know my results next week some time.

  14. #14
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    I have been bleeding my elixir cr's quite a bit since I recieved my bike last august. Well it snows alot here, and -30 from nov-feb/mar, so hasn't been ridden much till lately,,,,,anyways. I actually favor the same limited lever throw, although I like the lever reach adjusted so that the lever is as close to the bar as possable. That way when gripping the bar, and with one finger on the lever, it almost feels like your whole hand is holding on, not just the remaining fingies'.
    Ok, back to the bleeding, seems like, from what I have heard, lots of rear's needed constant bleeding from new? Mine for sure.

    I now bleed the caliper lots, then the lever lots, then push fluid from lever to caliper, then caliper to lever, then bleed the lever again, caliper again, then push the fluid through from one end to the other, back and forth, till all of the air is out. Then just when you feel as though you should be good, a big bubble will come out. Time to do it all again.....and again....I am loving the power, but over all hating the brakes. Time to go back to shimano, yeah it's great that they use mineral oil that won't harm your paint, and is virtually harmless, but guess what, you will NEVER bleed them, unless you damage something, or start screwing with them.

    I do push the pads apart with the red spacer, with the bleed screw out of course, although I am sure you could do it with the screw loose, just enough to release pressure, and you could tighten it back up before releasing the pressure on the pistons, MAKE sure you follow the instructions regarding lever reach, and pad contact prior to bleeding, I tried to play with that, doesn't work. just my two cents

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