Elixir CR ????
Ok, I know there are mixed reviews with these brakes but the price was right and I needed to get some new brakes.
I have heard people complain of them being noisy. So I have a few questions for any of you guys that have run them with success.
1. Any particular pads that you guys have found that work well and eliminate any noise (squeal)? running sintered pads on my BB7's with great success at the moment
2. Any tips/tricks I should be aware of for trimming the lines, bleeding, reinstalling the lines?
3. Does the $15 ebay bleed kit work well enough? I have access to syringes at my job so that is not an issue, more concerned about the fitings, lines, and hose clamps.
4. Any particular rotors work better with them? I will have the stock rotors as well as my KCNC rotors that I have been riding but figure I will be replacing those over the winter anyway.
I plan on measuring up all the bolts when they arrive and replacing them with alu/ti. I already have ti rotor/caliper bolts that will go on with the initial install.
Last edited by 1SPD; 09-27-2011 at 08:34 AM.
Organic seems to be the quietest. Have used Avid, Jagwire and Brakepoint Authority with good success.
Just trim, reinstall and bleed as per instructions. Not sure if your brakes are the 'new' taperbores, but be prepared to be patient. Can be painful to bleed properly.
Not sure about the ebay kit, but the Avid bleed kit is handy. Can easily be done with a home-made kit though.
Have only used the G3 rotors, so not sure, sorry.
If you get an avid bleed kit, get the pro one. The regular one is rather cheap, even for the steep price. The organic pads are quiet but burn out quickly. I believe I had the G3 rotors when I had avid elixir 3 brakes
YES. Just the upgrade to the glass syringe makes a massive difference.
Originally Posted by ehigh
I know the Competitive Cyclist had the CR's for 125 a brake. I just sold my CR's on CL because I could not stand them anymore, and paid close to 200 a brake. I would just save your money and get a set of the new Shimano XT's.
$35 mistake when I got the regular kit. I hate that thing.
Originally Posted by Shalom
Originally Posted by 1SPD
1. Avid organic pads are the quietest. You have to align them PERFECTLY for quiet operation.
2. Nah, it's straight forward.
3. Don't know.
4. I've used G2, G3, and Alligator Serration rotors. The Alligators are WAY quieter than the Avids, and they're MUCH less expensive.
My Code R's howl up front pretty good. I've found that using the pad spreader to expand the caliper and then pumping the brakes to reseat the pads to the rotor works for a while but it eventually comes back. Out back I've had nary a problem, they work like you'd expect.
From my experience; I think you'll like the Elixirs. I have Elixir 5, R, & CR brakes on 3 of our bikes and haven't had any noise issues at all. Ever so often (a couple of times) the rear brake on my Pivot will chirp but only when the rear caliper has gotten wet & gritty. Even then it only lasts for a couple of hard stops. I use sintered pads exclusively and really like the feel and stopping power of the Elixirs.
Trimming the brake line length is pretty straight forward. The bleeding process isn't as straight forward as some others but isn't too hard to get the hang of. I have the basic Avid bleed kit (plastic syringes) and it works okay but if I had it to do over, I would spend the extra amount on the Avid professional bleed kit.
Riding free's the mind
I've run Elixir CR's for about 3 years, they're fine once mounted properly. The basic Avid bleed kit works fine, agree the procedure is a little fussy compared to say Magura's and i've learned a few tricks to get the pads from rubbing, etc. Honestly, I've never had the dreaded howling or warbling, I believe the orbital washers on Avids complicates installation more than needs to be. Yup, organic pads are way quiet but not durable.
[SIZE=2]Question to a custom frame builder..."So what makes your bikes climb better?"....his answer, "Uh, your legs?"[/SIZE]
Important bleed tip:
Before you do anything, make sure you turn the "pad contact" all the way in (counter clockwise) thus maximizing the volume of brake fluid in the lever. I actually remove the lever from the bar - makes rotating the pad contact knob much easier.
After you're all done bleeding, turn the pad contact all the way clockwise (opposite the arrow)
- thus increasing brake fluid pressure.
Anyone who has mushy lever feel should try these steps.
If you're patient and don't mind some tweaking, the Elixir CRs can be incredible.
I installed the Jagwire Red Zone Alloy Disc Pads (the gold ones)
My squealing is 99% gone.
EBC organic pad # CFA472 has been good so far
Santa Cruz Tallboy
I have very minimal chirping on the rear when under light braking. When putting on the pressure there is no noise at all. Running KCNC rotors. I have the new G2's still in their sealed packaging. I figure I will keep them for an emergency but am happy with my KCNC's so far.
On a good note they are holding strong! Got in a 22 miler today and they worked wonderful.
this sounds like a good tip and makes sense. but the avid bleed procedure says to do the opposite so you dont overfill the lever and mess up the seals.
Originally Posted by client_9
i am assuming you havent had any problems with it though
i recently picked up some CRs off craigslist. i like them much better then juicy 3s. will probably get the new HS1 rotors
I've been running the elixir cr's for about a year and a half now. They work great. As far as noise goes, I also found the organic pads to be quiet compared to the sintered pads. Definitely use the pro kit, it works so much better. Here's a really good video on bleeding elixirs, be sure to follow the process exactly---->Technical Tuesday: How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes - Pinkbike.com
2015 Tallboy LTc Fox 36 150mm
Well, I may need to look into new pads. I have a slight squeal when under very light load. Basically when you are just trying to shave a little speed. Under normal load or harder braking I don't get much of any squeal. So far it is something I can live with but I guess it is slowly starting to get to me. Nothing drastic mind you.
Other than that and the initial o-ring problem I had they have been doing pretty good. I am finding that I need to recenter the front one every couple of rides. Not sure if it is due to deflection or if the tri-align set up (all those stupid washers) simply causes it to shift slightly. I don't want to crank down too tightly and then screw up my fork though (alum mount).
Yesterday when I recentered, I placed a business card in between the rotor and pad on the inside (seems to shift towards the outside causing the inner pad to rub). Right now it looks to be really good but will see how she is sitting after my next ride. Love'n the one finger braking though!
I have thought about adding the Avid rotor on the front that came with them over my KCNC. Basically there is more rotor/pad contact with the Avid's so I would think that braking might be a little better but so far I haven't felt a true need for it just yet. Then again, do I really want to wait until I need it one time and it not be there????
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