Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Elixar Bleeds

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    204

    Elixar Bleeds

    Bled my Elixar today, well the front brake. took 6 times, but finally got it acceptable.

    I'm gonna go with the thought that dot 4 is ok to use since it says only Dot 4 or dot 5.1 on the brake body.

    plus about how many times does it take for some one to get it "right"?

    I like my brakes to be very sinsitive since i prefer to use only one finger.
    Broadway Bikes: Grease Monkey/Sales/you name it, we do it

    Rubber side down is never bad!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    455
    Quote Originally Posted by chwesley
    Bled my Elixar today, well the front brake. took 6 times, but finally got it acceptable.

    I'm gonna go with the thought that dot 4 is ok to use since it says only Dot 4 or dot 5.1 on the brake body.

    plus about how many times does it take for some one to get it "right"?

    I like my brakes to be very sinsitive since i prefer to use only one finger.
    I had to bleed my new ft brake twice...I kept drawing so much air that I thought I had a leak some where. After the second time it worked great. The brakes have worked flawlessly (one finger).

    Did you use the Avid bleed kit or use some other method? Ride a few times and if the feel is unacceptible then I check all the connections and bleed again. Here is the method I used.

    Mikey

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    204
    yeah i used the same process as that video. really like that sram put up those videos. really helpful.

    My problem was that i have kept messing up one of the steps at some point.
    Broadway Bikes: Grease Monkey/Sales/you name it, we do it

    Rubber side down is never bad!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    455
    Quote Originally Posted by chwesley
    ...My problem was that i have kept messing up one of the steps at some point.
    Have you gone on a ride with them? Have you got them set the way you like them now? My front brake still felt a little squishy compared to the rear right after I bled them, but after riding around the block a few times, I could feel no difference between the two. I've got several rides on them now and couldn't be happier. Great modulation/feel and I can lock up either brake with one finger.

    Mikey

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    503
    I have to re-bleed mine. I have some serious air in the lever. When I bled the brakes and was bleeding the lever there was an air sucking sound. I asked the tech at Sea Otter at SRAM's trailer and he said that the o-ring in the lever can move a little and suck some air in. The solution to this was to press some fluid in while bleeding the lever and the o-ring should move back.

    I don't have any leaks, so I will try again.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    455
    Quote Originally Posted by leggatt
    ...The solution to this was to press some fluid in while bleeding the lever and the o-ring should move back...
    I did this, as the video instructs, but I didn't know why it was necessary. Maybe that's what I was doing... drawing air past the o-ring. Anyway, I quess it worked the second time.

    Mikey

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    204
    what i did was i took the pad contact points and moved them all the way in, and re bled them.

    didn't know what that would do, but i had been screwing up every step so far so on more screw up was in for the order.

    I think this way worked best. They were more senisitve after i bled them and moved the pads back to the outer position.

    I'm still trying to figure out how those pad contact points work?

    I would think that if i have it all the way in, than the breaks would be more sensitive, but they aren't.They feel more sensitive with them being all the way out.

    Plus i think the carbon lever may be a little to flexy for my taste.

    Havn't ridden on them yet, but I was finally able to leave it alone and feel that they were acceptable in my OCD terms.

    What i also did was after i finished bleeding the lever, and had removed the syringe, i added may be 2-3 drops of fluid into the bleed port before i placed the screw on.

    If it still doesn't work, does SRAM make any thicker pads for them?
    Broadway Bikes: Grease Monkey/Sales/you name it, we do it

    Rubber side down is never bad!

  8. #8
    TNC
    TNC is offline
    noMAD man
    Reputation: TNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,059
    Funny you mention pads and thickness. I just installed a pair of Jagwire sintered pads that are aluminum backed. They definitely looked thicker than a new pair of Avid Elixir pads I had on hand...but I didn't get out my calipers. I definitely had to adjust the lever reach a good deal.

    Why did I replace a new set of Avid sintered pads? I have two sets of Elixirs. The rear on my Nomad has that vibration thing going on under easy, partial braking. Not much of a noise and no affect on the outstanding braking performance, but it's annoying as heck. You can feel it more than anything. I've checked all the obvious alignment, pad contamination, and mounting tab issues but to no avail. A new set of pads...trying to eliminate contamination...only stopped it for a few braking efforts, as the vibration came right back after a few stops. I even cleaned the backs of the pads and the piston faces. I had picked up a set of these Jagwire pads just for grins to carry in my bike travel box. As a last resort, I threw these pads in there, and after two very decent rides, no vibration. The stopping power feels just like the Avid sintered pads. The backing material and design looks different, but frankly I can't tell by how much or in what way. The Avid backing material almost has a bronze or copper look to it. This whole thing could be just a difference in pad material compound, the backing material, or both. I was suspicious at first that perhaps the Jagwire and Avid pads would be something made by the same Asian factory somewhere, but it's pretty evident that they're not just by looking at them.

    Here's another odd thing. The pad package says the pads will fit both Elixirs and Hayes Strokers. What the heck?

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mojobeer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by chwesley
    what i did was i took the pad contact points and moved them all the way in, and re bled them.

    didn't know what that would do, but i had been screwing up every step so far so on more screw up was in for the order.

    I think this way worked best. They were more senisitve after i bled them and moved the pads back to the outer position.

    I'm still trying to figure out how those pad contact points work?

    I would think that if i have it all the way in, than the breaks would be more sensitive, but they aren't.They feel more sensitive with them being all the way out.

    Plus i think the carbon lever may be a little to flexy for my taste.

    Havn't ridden on them yet, but I was finally able to leave it alone and feel that they were acceptable in my OCD terms.

    What i also did was after i finished bleeding the lever, and had removed the syringe, i added may be 2-3 drops of fluid into the bleed port before i placed the screw on.

    If it still doesn't work, does SRAM make any thicker pads for them?
    From Avid "Pad Contact-Point Adjustment allows you to adjust the point in the lever's throw where the pads contact the rotor." Turning the Contact Adjustment towards In will increase the point in the lever throw where the pads contact the rotors. The Adjustment doesn't move the pads, its all in the lever. That's why they feel more sensitive with it turned all the way, the pads contact with less pull of the lever.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    48
    There is an interesting sealing device in the elixirs. Its pretty much a straight tube that folds in on itself when the lever is all the way backed out. Its very important to pressurize when letting go of the lever and make sure it is fully out while doing so. This should remove the air that can get trapped when the seal folds back in. (Atleast this is what i observed when i took mine apart) I also think this is a really big failure on the part of the lever as it will always suck in a small amount of air every time the seal pops all the way out. This can be tested by pumping the lever rapidly a few times, a large amount of small air bubbles will be visible if air is left up in the sheathing seal. (If i can call it that?) Mark me if i am wrong though.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •