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  1. #1
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    Easiest Upgrade from Avid Juicy Threes

    Got a new Fisher X-Caliber and love the bike but do not like the Avid Juicy Threes that came with it.

    What is the easiest (and perhaps cheapest) upgrade that will give me adjustability? Juicy Fives? BB7s? Other?

    I ride XC, nothing too rugged, and weigh 200 lbs.

    Thanks.

    David K

  2. #2
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    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
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    What exactly do you want to adjust?

  3. #3
    29 some of the time...
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    Easiest upgrade:
    Sell them on ebay and buy something else

    For basic XC riding the J3 should be fine though. What's bugging you about them?
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  4. #4
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    brakes

    whats the reason for upgrading?.......just cash to burn or what?......I've got J 3's on my c'dale F4 and they stop the bike just fine....send me over the bars if I'm not careful......

  5. #5
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    Work great but they do do drag

    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe
    What exactly do you want to adjust?
    They are my first set of disc brakes and they are great on the trail but do drag a little. I come from the world of rim brakes where you need to re-adjust and toe in the brakes from time to time. Seems like other brakes offer more fine tune and adjustment options to eliminate or at least reduce drag.

    I have no complaints relative to stopping and speed modulation.

    David K in Indy

  6. #6
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    Avid hydraulic brakes (and I'm guessing other brands) do not have an adjustment for pad to disk gap to "dial out drag".

    If you have squeezed the lever with the wheel removed and therefore reduced the correct gap, do the following. Remove the wheel. Carefully pry the pads/pistons all the way back into the caliper body (I like to remove the pads first so that I can't damage them).

    Install the wheel and pull the lever a few times to reset the pads. You should now have a normal gap.

    If that doesn't solve the problem you need to align the caliper as follows.

    Loosen the CPS caliper mounting bolts. Squeeze the lever 5 or 6 times, then hold. Compress the lever (with your hand or a rubber band), then snug the CPS bolts enough to hold the caliper in place. Spin the wheel and check for rotor drag. If there is drag, loosen the CPS bolts and repeat. Once there is no drag, torque the CPS bolts in an alternating fashion to the specified torque.

    If this hasn't solved the problem, your seat stays may be flexing out when you put your weight on the bike. If this is the case, you need to do the alignment procedure with someone sitting on the bike. I do it by weighting the bike with my chest as I set the caliper.

    If you only have rotor drag while cornering hard the cause is frame/fork flex and you learn to live with it.

    http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-5013-109-000.pdf

  7. #7
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    Thanks

    Thank, I appreciate the help. Nothing like being a newbie again. David K

  8. #8
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    If all else fails, I'll meet you at BCSP and we'll work it out there.

  9. #9
    29 some of the time...
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    Sounds like the brakes will work fine for you, now you either need to learn to work on them or take them to a local shop to get fixed up. There are quite a few simple tricks to setting up hydraulic brakes. Once you learn these then the majority of issues associated with disc brakes are easily remedied.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

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