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Thread: Code problems

  1. #1
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    Code problems

    Yesterday I was bleeding my codes for the first time. Did the front first and everything went fine. Now on the rear I was the point of pushing the fluid from the caliper syringe to the lever syringe. I noticed after running some fluid through that I had not depressed the lever to the bar. So not thinking I just grabbed a handful of brake and rubber banded it in place. Now the fluid will not move through the lever at all. I tried moving the pad contact in a couple clicks from full out like I've read on here. Nothing. And it seems like something is stuck the pad adjust knob now. Any ideas?

  2. #2
    I think I need to Upgrade
    Reputation: AzSpeedfreek's Avatar
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    The reach adjustment allen on the lever may be adjusted too far out, screw that in a bit to bring the lever closer to the bar and straighten out the bar that pushes the piston in the lever.

  3. #3
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    release it!

    Aren't you suppose to release the lever when pumping fluid from the caliper syringe to the lever syringe? You're suppose to eliminate air in the hose and move it to the lever.

    Think about it, if you press the lever, you closed the circuit and prevent fluid from going back. You're actually pushing the fluid to the caliper.

    Release the lever, pump fluid into the caliper then close it. Suck all the air out with you lever syringe. Then inject fluid to the lever to replace the air with fluid then pump it. Close it. You're done.

    Check youtube and search for "avid bleed".


    Hopefully, the piston is not stuck inside.

  4. #4
    err, 27.5+
    Reputation: AL29er's Avatar
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    Yep, your order of operations is a bit off. The only reason you pull the lever in the first place is so you don't pull fluid from the master cylinder while bleeding the caliper. Once done with the caliper release the lever so that fluid can go up the line to the other syringe.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  5. #5
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    Tried releasing the lever. Still no fluid movement at all and the lever seems to move with no resistance. I think I broke something.

  6. #6
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    Piston

    Quote Originally Posted by sodpoodle
    Tried releasing the lever. Still no fluid movement at all and the lever seems to move with no resistance. I think I broke something.
    Had the same problem. Your piston is stuck.

    disconnect the line from the lever and poke the piston back with some type of a hard wire that would fit the hole were the hose is connected. then bleed it again. try following the procedure this time.

  7. #7
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    Haha, apparently following directions is not my forte'. I'll give the wire a try. Thanks for all the help so far.

  8. #8
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    Well, I pushed the piston back(felt it kind of click) then went to redo the whole process. Same result. I thought maybe I had a dyslexic moment and turned the pad contact in and not out. So I started turning the dial. It never stopped turning. I think at this point it's time to admit defeat and contact sram.

  9. #9
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    We sold a pile of Codes last season and they've all had issues almost exactly one year later. Seems like the long term durability isn't so good. All you probably need is a master cylinder rebuild kit for about $25.00. Oh, and fingers shaped like needle nose pliers to get the job done.

  10. #10
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    Never surrender!

    Quote Originally Posted by sodpoodle
    Well, I pushed the piston back(felt it kind of click) then went to redo the whole process. Same result. I thought maybe I had a dyslexic moment and turned the pad contact in and not out. So I started turning the dial. It never stopped turning. I think at this point it's time to admit defeat and contact sram.

    You probably didn't push it out enough. The gear coupling is not meshing with the pad adjuster knob. It's probably still inside. You need to push it out some more to make it engage with the pad adjuster knob.

    Or the other thing might happened. You pushed it out too much that caused the C-clip to come out. In that case you need to remove the lever and put the piston shaft back inside.

    Tech manual to the rescue: Page 20

    http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/avid/.../TM_MY09_E.pdf

    But I think you just need to push it out some more until the gear coupling engaged with the pad adj. knob.

    Also, I dont think you need a master cylinder rebuild kit since it was working perfect before you derailed the brake bleeding procedure.

    Good Luck!

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