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  1. #1
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    Chris King Hub and 8" Rotor Help

    CROSS POST, SORRY.

    I just bought a new wheel set with Chris King hubs. The only problem is I canít use the front because the rotor runs too close to the fork. There is actually a little black paint on the inner part of the rotor from barely touching the fork. Iím running an 8Ē rotor (Juicy 7ís) on a Minute 2. The exact same set up with a XT hub does not have this problem.

    I really want to be able to run this set up so I am thinking of grinding off maybe 0.02Ē from the rotor flange. Of course Chris King said this would void the warranty but do you guys think this would work and still be safe? Thanks for any input.
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  2. #2
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    Does the rotor actually rub the fork at all? From the pic it looks like the clearance is just very tight. I have King hubs, Louise FR's (7inch rotors), and a Manitou Firefily Plus. My clearance between the rotor and the fork leg is almost nil but they never actually touch eachother when I check in my garage, and there are no rotor rub marks so it must never rub on the trail.

    I don't know how avid does their rotors, but you might want to check and see if a 7inch (185mm) rotor is any thinner than your current rotor. 8 inches up front is probably more stopping power than any trail/XC bike needs, not to mention a lot of torque under braking for a quick release.

    King hubs come with a pretty good warranty. I would try to work with them some more to fix the problem. If you do decide to grind away I would only have a professional machinist do it.
    Last edited by AKBiker; 08-24-2004 at 03:56 PM. Reason: added some

  3. #3
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    I had the exact same issue with King/Minute and a Magura 180mm rotor. I have since dropped down to a 160 which fits a little better between the brake posts. I don't know what else to do. I would try some other front hubs before tearing into the rotor surface on the King.
    Long Live Long Rides

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew
    I had the exact same issue with King/Minute and a Magura 180mm rotor. I have since dropped down to a 160 which fits a little better between the brake posts. I don't know what else to do. I would try some other front hubs before tearing into the rotor surface on the King.

    My old XT works fine, I might have to sell the Chris King set and go back to the XT. The reason I switched from a 160 to a 200 was because on the Juicy 7's the caliper is so darn close to the spokes, I was paranoid that somehow I might waste my wheel. In another forum it was suggested I try thin washer between the rotor side cone and the inner face of the drop-out. I'm going to give this a shot; if this doesn't work I'll just get rid of the front wheel set. Thanks for the help.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by slomoking
    My old XT works fine, I might have to sell the Chris King set and go back to the XT. The reason I switched from a 160 to a 200 was because on the Juicy 7's the caliper is so darn close to the spokes, I was paranoid that somehow I might waste my wheel. In another forum it was suggested I try thin washer between the rotor side cone and the inner face of the drop-out. I'm going to give this a shot; if this doesn't work I'll just get rid of the front wheel set. Thanks for the help.
    flip the axle and see it that gives you more clearance. The King hubs are built to run the axle in opposite orientations depending on whether you're using a rim or disc brake. flip it, see if it clears your fork leg and re-dish the whell if successful.

    Sean

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge
    flip the axle and see it that gives you more clearance. The King hubs are built to run the axle in opposite orientations depending on whether you're using a rim or disc brake. flip it, see if it clears your fork leg and re-dish the whell if successful.

    Sean
    Interesting! I'll have to try that. I might like to get that 180mm back on sometime.
    Long Live Long Rides

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