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  1. #1
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    cheap upgrade for avid elixr 7 for more stopping power for a clyde

    I have a 200mm front rotor + 180 mm in the rear. Brakes do the unfamous turkey siound and doesn't brake enough for my 6'4'' 230 pounds guy. Should i bleed thm first or upgrade some parts? Noob here who needs help!

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    cheap upgrade for avid elixr 7 for more stopping power for a clyde

    If you don't know when they were last bled, it might not be a bad idea. After that I'd try some aftermarket pads if you don't want to give up on them just yet. Tree Fort Bikes sells some Jagwire pads that seem to have good reviews. I used Serfas pads from Jenson USA on my Elixir 3s and they work great and the brakes are silent.

    The next logical step is to switch to Shimanos. Billions of people on these forums rave about the higher-end Shimano brakes.
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welric View Post
    I have a 200mm front rotor + 180 mm in the rear. Brakes do the unfamous turkey siound and doesn't brake enough for my 6'4'' 230 pounds guy. Should i bleed thm first or upgrade some parts? Noob here who needs help!

    Thanks
    I had Elixir 5s. Did the 200mm upgrade on the front and moved the 180mm to the back. Still not powerful enough. Replaced with 180/160 Shimano XT and XT rotors and now have way more power than I did with the Elixir 200/180. I think XTs are still on clearance on most online stores.

    Might have to bite the bullet unless you can live with your existing setup.

  4. #4
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    Shimano XT. Get the Problem Solvers adapter if you want to bolt up SRAM shifters directly to them. I changed out from Elixir 7 and never looked back.

  5. #5
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    I hope you have the Avid HS1 rotors................

    If so, the Formula RX 2012 are worth a look. The pad clearence issue isnt there on the RX. They can be found on close out. The power is there for sure. In fact, I had to drop to a 160 in the back because they 180 was skidding too much from the power.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  6. #6
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    Will the avid hs1 rotors work fine wich a shimano setup? Or do I really need to change all the system?

  7. #7
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    I think Avids will work fine. I just went with XT rotors as they were on sale. You might need to play with the washers a bit on the Avid brake adapters, but I'd give it a shot.

  8. #8
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    Shimano Deore/SLX

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welric View Post
    Will the avid hs1 rotors work fine wich a shimano setup? Or do I really need to change all the system?
    I cannot say for sure as I have not done that. I will say that Shimano designed the whole IceTech thing as a system. You'd get the best performance if you have the IceTech rotors.

    You can run the HS1 and see how you like them if you have them already. If you find you don't like the HS1 for overheating or anyother reason, go with the Shim rotors.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    I cannot say for sure as I have not done that. I will say that Shimano designed the whole IceTech thing as a system. You'd get the best performance if you have the IceTech rotors.

    You can run the HS1 and see how you like them if you have them already. If you find you don't like the HS1 for overheating or anyother reason, go with the Shim rotors.
    I have a second wheelset that came with Avid hs1 180 rotors and am using that with stock shimano BR-M505. I had to put a smaller 160 rotor in rear and used a hayes v cut rotor.
    The quietest best working rotor is the HS1, followed by stock shimano, and the noisiest is the Hayes.

    at night time when it's super quiet on the pavement with city tires, I can barely hear the front break with the HS1, and gripping power is still there.
    Noobish
    2013 Cannondale Trail 29er 1
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  11. #11
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    OP: try lightly sanding the pads clean the rotors with alcohol and re-bed in the brakes. (Google avid bed in procedure) Bleed if they feel soft or spongy.

    Sent from my skz_tenderloin using Tapatalk 4

  12. #12
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    Avid's remain one of the best deals on the market because no one knows this-

    Loosen the screws on the brake mounts.

    Turn them back in until they are hand tight

    Spin the wheel, then grab the brake slowly. Do this a couple times increasing the pressure each time.

    With the brake lever still engaged, tighten the bolts fully.

    Warble gone, power back. 5 minutes at most.
    I call for a mandate to allow only road bikes on trails to limit our speeds and increase our line picking skills-FB

  13. #13
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    there's always the option to swap to the trail version elixirs. They use 4 pistons vs 2, and larger pads, which will give you more power and better modulation.

    The elixir 7 trails are fairly inexpensive and offer the same braking power as the elixir 9 trail and elixir x0 trail.

  14. #14
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    At 230, if you have a 200 up front and a 180 in back, and it's not enough power, you need to sort out the brakes you have, not buy new ones, because I assure you that should be enough power. The 10 lbs you have on me isn't going to make that inadequate when I ride a 180 in front and a 160 out back.

    Try a bleed. Adjust the caliper position as suggested earlier in the thread. Maybe it IS time for a new set of pads - how worn are the old ones?

    A lot of people resort to switching to shimano brakes because Avid's "don't work" but my XO's work fine. The Elixir 1's on my wife's bike will endo if you just think about it hard enough. I'm convinced the the biggest problem with Avid brakes is how people set them up, or not.

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