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  1. #1
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    Challenge with getting Fomula R1 dialed in

    Hi,

    I bought a set of use Formula R1 and I have having one hell of a time getting them dialed in. The brakes are mounted on a Ibis Mojo HD frame and I am used to setting up my own brakes. I have set up the following brakes: Formula K24, old Shimano XTR, BB7, and some avids.

    Here is my challenge: If I use brand new R1 pads, and push the cylinders back as far as I can, there is not enough clearance to slide the rotor between the pads. I kind of fixed that by using K24 used pads, but the gap for the rotor is so small, that in order to not have contact on either side, I have to push the brakes as far in as possible, leaving very little room for adjustments. It also looks like the caliper isn't parallel to the rotor as I am getting uneven wear on the pads. I have tried to align it better, but can't do it without any rubbing.

    Right now, it kind of works, but I am not happy with the setup, so unless I can find a solution, I am looking at dumping the brakes and getting a set of The Ones.

    Any idea? I can also take some pics of the set up if that helps. It should also me noted that I haven't bled the brakes since receiving them and they feel strong and powerful.

    Thanks a lot in advance.
    A climb is really just a flat piece of road that points up. A headwind is a climb that you can't see. So it's all flat road, really.

  2. #2
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    I'm having similar problems with my The One FR's. going to replace fluid and bleed today, if that doesn't work ill be buying some XT's.
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  3. #3
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    I was afraid someone was going to say that... I have bled my K24 before, but didn't really want to do that on the R1. I'll try that at some point and see what I get.
    A climb is really just a flat piece of road that points up. A headwind is a climb that you can't see. So it's all flat road, really.

  4. #4
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    Bring them to a capable bikeshop and let them do it.

  5. #5
    bt
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    i sold my r1s for the same reason. there is no fix. using worn pads is not the answer because the pistons self adjust. sell them for some shimanos imho.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Learux View Post
    Bring them to a capable bikeshop and let them do it.
    I have done my K24s a few times, so I am ok with doing it, but it is just not the easiest thing to do.
    A climb is really just a flat piece of road that points up. A headwind is a climb that you can't see. So it's all flat road, really.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    i sold my r1s for the same reason. there is no fix. using worn pads is not the answer because the pistons self adjust. sell them for some shimanos imho.
    Urgh... I am afraid that that might be the case, but the issue is that I really like them. They are light, super strong and don't fade. I am thinking of getting a pair of The Ones, unless The Ones have the same issues.
    A climb is really just a flat piece of road that points up. A headwind is a climb that you can't see. So it's all flat road, really.

  8. #8
    bt
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbblackdiamond View Post
    Urgh... I am afraid that that might be the case, but the issue is that I really like them. They are light, super strong and don't fade. I am thinking of getting a pair of The Ones, unless The Ones have the same issues.

    don't get any current formulas. get shimano xtr race.

    promountainoutfitters.com has best delivery and prices imho

  9. #9
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    I didn't have time to replace fluid and bleed before my weekend race so I put a set of XT's on my bike. They are nice for sure. I'm going to get my The Ones fixed up right and sell them. New organic pads with alloy backers and 2x 185mm and one 160mm rotor. If anyone is interested. My LBS main guy is confident they just need a little TLC...I hope so
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  10. #10
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    I think the R1 brakes are supposed to be used with 1.8mm thick rotors instead of 2mm. With that being said, I'm running 2mm Shimano rotors without any problems.

  11. #11
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    I have The Ones on my HD. Great brakes but they are touchy to set up. Never had any issues when changing pads? You need to collapse the piston as far as they will go in order to have them fit. Are you sure they sold you the right pads? If your rotors are warped at all you will need to straighten them as the clearance is very tight and they will rub. I also found that I had a slight misalignment with them on my fox 36 talus and had to do a little custom filing to the bolt hole. Still touchy to setup but there worth it.

  12. #12
    bt
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitterDave View Post
    I think the R1 brakes are supposed to be used with 1.8mm thick rotors instead of 2mm. With that being said, I'm running 2mm Shimano rotors without any problems.
    but, the pistons self adjust to the rotor so even the thinnest one will end up with a "tight" gap.

  13. #13
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    Thanks a lot for all the comments... over the weekend, I got mad at my brakes for constantly "singing" during a ride and bit the bullet and bled them. I did it in 2 steps, where I first opened the bleeding screw and pushed the pistons back as far as I could. I then ensure the brake fluid was topped up and that no air was in the system.

    After that, I was able to use the right pads for the brakes and, even though the gap is pretty tight between the pads, it is large enough that they don't rub anymore.

    Thanks a lot.
    A climb is really just a flat piece of road that points up. A headwind is a climb that you can't see. So it's all flat road, really.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    but, the pistons self adjust to the rotor so even the thinnest one will end up with a "tight" gap.
    Not really... at least not in my case. When bled correctly I end up with too much clearance on my bike. I always have to reset the calipers after bleeding by removing the wheel and squeezing the lever 3-4 times. dbblackdiamond, maybe there is too much fluid in your brakes. Try bleeding the calipers again using new pads and the spacer. Some people dont realize that you have to reset the calipers on Formula brakes and end up adding fluid to compensate . I can also see this happening if used pads were used the last time the brakes were bled. If you purchased the brakes used then excessive fluid may be your problem.
    Killing it with close inspection.

  15. #15
    bt
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireLikeIYA View Post
    Not really... at least not in my case. When bled correctly I end up with too much clearance on my bike. I always have to reset the calipers after bleeding by removing the wheel and squeezing the lever 3-4 times.

    what brakes and what year are they?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    what brakes and what year are they?
    R1's... I can't remember if they are '09 or '10.
    Killing it with close inspection.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireLikeIYA View Post
    R1's... I can't remember if they are '09 or '10.

    cool

  18. #18
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    This has been discussed few times before here. I gave up and sold mine for newer Shimano XTRs. Formula supposedly fixed this issue with 2013 brakes.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cable0guy View Post
    This has been discussed few times before here. I gave up and sold mine for newer Shimano XTRs. Formula supposedly fixed this issue with 2013 brakes.
    As did I.

  20. #20
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    Just posted my issues with Formula RXO's on my HD. Freaking pad clearance is virtually non-existant. I think I'm going to order some XTR's and be done with it. I'm really tired of messing with the Formulas.

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