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  1. #201
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    @ gotfish8 -

    First, those look fantastic mounted. Thanks for the comment on modulation. Any further comments on noise, use in the wet, power etc. Those of this that have been following the SICC pads would love a real world write-up.

    Thanks
    AG

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by jos3ph4ever View Post
    Just received today from Malaysia..the one I installed on rear seem like have a little bend.
    Got my rotors last week and mounted them on a set of Enve Twenty9 XC tubulars with DT 240S 6-bolt disc hubs for use on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc cross bike. I am running Shimano CX75 mechanical disc calipers with the stock pads (resin) and the rotor up front works well and after a 45-minute test ride, has good braking and is very quiet. Unfortunately I cannot say the same for the rotor on the rear wheel because despite mounting/unmounting/mounting, the rotor appears to be warped in one section where the rotor moves ~3-4mm laterally. This was not an issue with the Ashiman Ai2 rotor the Kettle rotor replaced but I will need once again remove the Kettle rotor so i can set it on a flat surface to confirm if it is indeed warped. While it could be the hub, at this point, I am doubtful that one of the disc mounts on a DT Swiss hub would be off by that much!

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Got my rotors last week and mounted them on a set of Enve Twenty9 XC tubulars with DT 240S 6-bolt disc hubs for use on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc cross bike. I am running Shimano CX75 mechanical disc calipers with the stock pads (resin) and the rotor up front works well and after a 45-minute test ride, has good braking and is very quiet. Unfortunately I cannot say the same for the rotor on the rear wheel because despite mounting/unmounting/mounting, the rotor appears to be warped in one section where the rotor moves ~3-4mm laterally. This was not an issue with the Ashiman Ai2 rotor the Kettle rotor replaced but I will need once again remove the Kettle rotor so i can set it on a flat surface to confirm if it is indeed warped. While it could be the hub, at this point, I am doubtful that one of the disc mounts on a DT Swiss hub would be off by that much!
    The flatness tolerance is very tight, I expect you will find the same as jos3ph4ever that a remount dislodges a piece of debris and it's perfect. The rotors start much thicker and are ground in a way that controls the thickness, and this after they are 'set' as a ceramic. If it is somehow not flat, please call or contact us through the support ticket and we will get you sorted out. thx.
    Last edited by Aaron.S; 03-06-2013 at 04:03 PM.

  4. #204
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    Aaron,

    Thanks for the followup. This morning I once again removed the rotor and this time laid it on a granite countertop and would estimate that this showed the rotor was within +/-2mm of laying flat. Next, I placed the wheel in the truing stand (budget model for basic truing), and was able to use my Harbor Freight digital vernier caliper to perform some adhoc checks for hi/lo variation on the face of the rotor disc mounts. I did this by placing the micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Last edited by ms6073; 03-07-2013 at 02:27 PM.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    The flatness tolerance is very tight, I expect you will find the same as jos3ph4ever that a remount dislodges a piece of debris and it's perfect. The rotors start much thicker and are ground in a way that controls the thickness, and this after they are 'set' as a ceramic. If it is somehow not flat, please call or contact us through the support ticket and we will get you sorted out. thx.
    Thanks for supporting this so well. I know it's hard to see all these different internet forums, but when we see support like this, we are willing to take a chance on something unknown or a little pricey.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  6. #206
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    I am eagerly waiting to try mine with my mini hope brakes, I am currently using Scrub rotor's which work great, I love the look of the Sicc rotors.

  7. #207
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    Carbon Brake rotors-badhub.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Aaron,

    Thanks for the followup. This morning I once again removed the rotor and this time laid it on a granite countertop and would estimate that this showed the rotor was within +/-2mm of laying flat. Next, I placed the wheel in the truing stand (budget model for basic truing), and was able to use my Harbor Freight digital vernier caliper to perform some adhoc checks for hi/lo variation on the face of the rotor disc mounts. I did this by placing the micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Now it makes sense. Quick mock up shows what .5mm hub flange from left to right would do, one would hope the 6 would provide a better average. 21.4-19.6 = 1.8 go figure.

    I guess we better start sourcing shims to help solve hub issues so that we can help in this situation.

    I really appreciate you taking the time and not just blaming the rotor!

  8. #208
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    Thanks Aaron,

    I look forward to my rotors arriving. Hopefully my CK hub has no issues!
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now it makes sense. Quick mock up shows what .5mm hub flange from left to right would do, one would hope the 6 would provide a better average. 21.4-19.6 = 1.8 go figure.

    I guess we better start sourcing shims to help solve hub issues so that we can help in this situation.

    I really appreciate you taking the time and not just blaming the rotor!

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Aaron,

    Thanks for the followup. This morning I once again removed the rotor and this time laid it on a granite countertop and would estimate that this showed the rotor was within +/-2mm of laying flat. Next, I placed the wheel in the truing stand (budget model for basic truing), and was able to use my Harbor Freight digital vernier caliper to perform some adhoc checks for hi/lo variation on the face of the rotor disc mounts. I did this by placing the micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Still start a support ticket, if bolting them up tweaked the rotor, we will have to sort you out.
    Thanks again.

  10. #210
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    @Kettle rotor owners

    I would like to know, if the mounting hardware was included in your purchase?
    And if so, are the bolts made from steel or titanium?

    Regards

  11. #211
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    just got mine today 180/160

    no harware here. the 180 looks great, but the 160 looks like it has a blimish or maybe even a chip in the outer edge about 1" long. I guess I will try it anyhow and see how it works. as long as it works i dont care about the finish.

  12. #212
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    Those of us who got rotors via the Kickstarter campaign did not have an option for hardware although Kettle offered black Ti bolts when they opened there webstore.

  13. #213
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    Got mine!

    Got my 180/160 today. Mounting was straight forward, bedding in went easily. I had a difficult time centering the calipers, but I always have problems with that. I did manage to get them to run absolutely drag free though, so I'm pumped about that! They're stronger than the stock Formula one piece steel rotors for sure. I plan on riding tomorrow so I'll update with on-trail performance.
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  14. #214
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    Now that looks impressive. This is definitely one of my next mods. Love the creativity in the use of materials.

  15. #215
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    Has there been any treatment done to the rotor where it mounts to the hub so as to avoid galvonic corosion?

  16. #216
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    I appear to be misinformed please disregard this post.
    Last edited by tequeman; 03-10-2013 at 12:10 PM. Reason: guess i was wrong

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienRFX View Post
    Has there been any treatment done to the rotor where it mounts to the hub so as to avoid galvonic corosion?
    I would assume that since there are no metals in the construction of the rotor, galvanic corrosion is a non-issue.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    I would assume that since there are no metals in the construction of the rotor, galvanic corrosion is a non-issue.
    I'm more concerned about the hub possibly corroding where the rotor bolts up. Of course this concern could be totally unfounded.

  19. #219
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    Carbon can still cause galvanic reactions with metals. It's very mild and most times not an issue, but it does happen.

  20. #220
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    I missed Kettle Cycles on Kickstarter by 5 minutes but am glad to see they are up and running. My order for a couple sets went in the day the store opened and I am eagerly awaiting them. Ship date is March 18th.

    After everything I read about these it's an all win win part.

    Lightest rotor, doesn't hold heat, long lasting, compatible with all pads and strong enough for all mtbing.

    Carbon and aluminum can have a reaction but I believe salt has to be in the mix. Many carbon and aluminum frames/ parts out there are bonded together with no issues. If you're really worried, I'm sure a slice of wax paper, vinyl sticker or even vaseline in between them would work. I'm not worried on this.

  21. #221
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    Galvanic corrosion will occur- at temperatures in excess of 1000c /1832F

  22. #222
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    Aaron - are the Kickstarter March 160mm rotors still going to ship this coming week (as per your last update)?

  23. #223
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Yes they are

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Yes they are
    Great to hear. Thanks.

  25. #225
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    I got out for a ride yesterday with 180/160 rotors. I'm using Formula RX brakes with the Al backed organic pads. My original post with pictues is on page 9. I rode three AM trails with varying technicality, speed, and grade (if you're familiar with Aliso in Southern California, Rockit, Carwreck, and Lynx).. On the first, braking was slightly weaker than on my well worn steel rotors. Not much though, still one finger braking and I could brake the rear loose easily. On the second, Carwreck, they started biting much better. By the bottom they were as strong as with steel rotors. On the third, I forgot about the new rotors, which is great. I guess I should have done more bedding in before the ride, but it worked out anyway. They don't rub at all and they're completely quiet (no chirps, warbles, honks, squeals, or whines). And of course they look great and garner attention and questions on the trail. Since I'm in Southern California I may not get much of a shot at this "wet weather riding" I keep hearing about, but I will post another update if I do.

  26. #226
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    Which pads are you using excactly? Would you have a link where to get them? There are few options on the 'bay. I would like to save a few more grams with alu. backed pads, but they actually must work together with the rotors.

    Chris.

  27. #227
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    Stock Shimano resin pads work very well
    Last edited by tequeman; 03-11-2013 at 03:56 PM.

  28. #228
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    Aaron,
    Any plans to make these rotors in 203mm? I will be happy to buy some and put them through some abusive tandem related testing. I have road and offroad tandems that work disc brakes very hard. I am really interested to see how these might perform for my unique needs.

    Thanks,
    Steve

  29. #229
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    I got my pads at my LBS, just asked for aluminum backed organic pads for the RX. I'm fairly certain they're the "organic-lightweight" listed at chainreactioncycles dot com (I can't post links until I post 10 posts I guess).

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevoo View Post
    Aaron,
    Any plans to make these rotors in 203mm? I will be happy to buy some and put them through some abusive tandem related testing. I have road and offroad tandems that work disc brakes very hard. I am really interested to see how these might perform for my unique needs.

    Thanks,
    Steve
    We make 203mm, in the normal SiCCC (two piece) and SFL styles.

  31. #231
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    Hi
    I just got my Kickstarter 180mm rotors. Looks well constructed near perfectly true. Installed front on Dt Swiss 240 Enve wheel with Avid Elixir cr with new sintered pads. Burned in pads per instructions and power is at about 5-10 percent. Perfect pad transfer layer. Hopefully it will improve as the pads wear in. Will try cleaning and putting them in the sun. I check the temperature of the rotors after several 20 mph slows(stopping as fast as I could) and they where cold to the touch. Calipers and pads were warm. I feel that they will get better with time. Will report after next ride.
    Last edited by alexbn921; 03-12-2013 at 07:01 PM.

  32. #232
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    @alexbn921
    Avid with stock 'sinter' pads are what we use on a demo bike to show lower powered brake systems work well.
    Something is off.
    Are the pads from Avid?
    Rotors from a different company, any company usually changes your engagement. If you did the sprints to -light- braking you should be smiling ear to ear.
    We apparently need to clarify the burn in, that is why I bring that up.
    Several have gone out with hard pulses which lays down uneven clumps of film.

    That's the only trick, so when someone has an issue with a brake system we have many many miles - even dyno with avid elixirs - we have to figure out the missing puzzle piece.
    And unless you got the direct msg through kickstarter about baking, it does not apply to your rotors.

    You can call or do a support ticket as well. Just please don't facebook, twitter or pm here.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmclemens View Post
    I got my pads at my LBS, just asked for aluminum backed organic pads for the RX. I'm fairly certain they're the "organic-lightweight" listed at chainreactioncycles dot com (I can't post links until I post 10 posts I guess).

    Does your RX with carbon rotors makes any noise?

    jx

  34. #234
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    Hi Aaron
    I am not trying to bash the rotors. I feel that there is an expectation that they will work right out of the box and not need extra burn in time vs a steel rotor. I fell that as long as we are informed, we know what to expect from the performance of the rotor. I have edited my post to reflect that I do believe these are an awesome product and will just need some extra time to work perfect. I will also report my view as a consumer, so that others can make an informed decision. FYI I have never been happy with my weak Elixers. Changing them out to XTR Race tonight. Will report good and bad. Cheers

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmclemens View Post
    Got my 180/160 today. Mounting was straight forward, bedding in went easily. I had a difficult time centering the calipers, but I always have problems with that. I did manage to get them to run absolutely drag free though, so I'm pumped about that! They're stronger than the stock Formula one piece steel rotors for sure. I plan on riding tomorrow so I'll update with on-trail performance.
    Be honest,
    Did you only get these because they match your Mojo raw carbon frame?
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Hi Aaron
    I am not trying to bash the rotors. I feel that there is an expectation that they will work right out of the box and not need extra burn in time vs a steel rotor. I fell that as long as we are informed, we know what to expect from the performance of the rotor. I have edited my post to reflect that I do believe these are an awesome product and will just need some extra time to work perfect. I will also report my view as a consumer, so that others can make an informed decision. FYI I have never been happy with my weak Elixers. Changing them out to XTR Race tonight. Will report good and bad. Cheers
    Just changed my hope to XTR Trai with metal finned pad(f03c),the power create so far is better than hope and able to stop when I wan to stop(still in bedding process).
    This is third brakeset since I received this rotors........

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Galvanic corrosion will occur- at temperatures in excess of 1000c /1832F
    OK, So my trip to ride on Mercury is out until you fix this problem.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  38. #238
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    I'm still looking for some insights into how true these things stay...the idea of not having to tweak rotors to eliminate rub is pretty attractive.

    Of course the downside would be if there is a problem with their true-ness, then it seems like you would be SOL...
    Riding: '91 Carbon Epic Stumpjumper w/1" Slicks and a Rack on the Back

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPA Rider View Post
    I'm still looking for some insights into how true these things stay...the idea of not having to tweak rotors to eliminate rub is pretty attractive.

    Of course the downside would be if there is a problem with their true-ness, then it seems like you would be SOL...
    I'm sure there won't be an issue with true-ness, otherwise Kettle is dead in water with these. I'll be mounting mine on two different makes of hubs so we'll see. I'm a Feb. backer, so hope to see my rotors soon.

  40. #240
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    We spend almost as much on grinding services as the carbon weave per rotor. They are inspected twice each. By people who know their craft and take pride in their work.

    We can also tell by inspection when a rotor has been over-torqued to a hub that has an uneven mounting surface. There is a reason the industry torque spec is low, and it's more important with ours than steel because you can bend the steel to compensate.

    I am no means trying to argue, it is simply an invitation to contact us if there is an issue.
    The rotors work, they work with a wide variety of pads /systems and they do ship flat.
    IF that is not your experience we want to figure out why and help. I really want to understand what and why you did not have a smooth experience so we can make sure we are doing everything we can to hone our communications and instructions and our over all product experience.

  41. #241
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    What the price tag on these?

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by ekcyclops View Post
    What the price tag on these?
    SFL - SiCCC Brake Rotors

  43. #243
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    Rotors showed up today. Nice to see they are under claimed weight, both of my 160mm are 53 grams. Checked the rotors on a piece of glass and they are perfectly true. Cleaned the rotors with Acetone and a lint free rag. Only running the front brake for now which is XTR 985 Race with new Shimano Resin pads. Torqued rotor bolts to Kettle's specs and in a criss-cross pattern. Noticed rotor was no longer true, so I backed off all 6 bolts and re-torqued, rotor was then true. If you are having issues with the rotor not true I would try re -torqueing and make sure you are using a torque wrench.
    I was running a Aligator Windcutter 180mm which had great power. After removing rotor, adapter and Ti adapter bolts I saved 90 grams going to the Kettle rotor.
    Followed Kettle's bed-in process with applying the brakes 12 times. Rotor's braking surface looked good & fully scrubbed in, but I had no braking power. I continued the brake-in process doing another 6 sets of 12 braking applications. It slowly got better, but I'm at approx. 60% braking power. With day light leaving me and arm pump setting in, I called it a day. I'm surprised the power is so poor with XTR 985, as these are very powerfull brakes with steel rotors. I'm going to stick with these and try another 5 or 6 sets of 12. I think these will be good in the long run, its just going to take awhile to bed them in as others have mentioned.
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  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Rotors showed up today. Nice to see they are under claimed weight, both of my 160mm are 53 grams. Checked the rotors on a piece of glass and they are perfectly true. Cleaned the rotors with Acetone and a lint free rag. Only running the front brake for now which is XTR 985 Race with new Shimano Resin pads. Torqued rotor bolts to Kettle's specs and in a criss-cross pattern. Noticed rotor was no longer true, so I backed off all 6 bolts and re-torqued, rotor was then true. If you are having issues with the rotor not true I would try re -torqueing and make sure you are using a torque wrench.
    I was running a Aligator Windcutter 180mm which had great power. After removing rotor, adapter and Ti adapter bolts I saved 90 grams going to the Kettle rotor.
    Followed Kettle's bed-in process with applying the brakes 12 times. Rotor's braking surface looked good & fully scrubbed in, but I had no braking power. I continued the brake-in process doing another 6 sets of 12 braking applications. It slowly got better, but I'm at approx. 60% braking power. With day light leaving me and arm pump setting in, I called it a day. I'm surprised the power is so poor with XTR 985, as these are very powerfull brakes with steel rotors. I'm going to stick with these and try another 5 or 6 sets of 12. I think these will be good in the long run, its just going to take awhile to bed them in as others have mentioned.
    Loved your extra lite hubs.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Galvanic corrosion will occur- at temperatures in excess of 1000c /1832F
    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    OK, So my trip to ride on Mercury is out until you fix this problem.
    Sorry kids, thanks to mean-man Aaron, and his measly 1000 C-limited rotors, our trip to Mercury is cancelled. Seriously, no tears, or I pull this ship over at Venus...

  46. #246
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    Subscribed...xc71, keep us posted. I also posted in a separate thread that my buddy's XX showed really poor performance as well. In fact, when he mounted brand new organic XX pads, there was virtually no spacing between pad and rotors and it was rubbing constantly (as if the rotor was too thick). Yes, even re-seated the calipers. I'm waiting for my 2-piece, but I'm concerned now with all the feedback above.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsxtc View Post
    Subscribed...xc71, keep us posted. I also posted in a separate thread that my buddy's XX showed really poor performance as well. In fact, when he mounted brand new organic XX pads, there was virtually no spacing between pad and rotors and it was rubbing constantly (as if the rotor was too thick). Yes, even re-seated the calipers. I'm waiting for my 2-piece, but I'm concerned now with all the feedback above.
    My rotors were thicker than the steel rotors as well, but after bedding in the new pads mine to longer touched and ran silent.

  48. #248
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    Anxiously awaiting my pair. I have New Shimano resin pads just waiting for the rotors. The hard part is that I live up a hill so bedding in as instructed may be a challenge but i am sure I can figure it out.

  49. #249
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    Posts
    19
    Finally installed XTR race brakes with resin pads and did some burn in runs. Brakes are working much better and I think they are ready for a real ride. Checked run out +-.002. I little bit of rub that should go away one the pads wear in. Weight of 2 180mm 138.5g, damn that's light. FYI they are slightly thicker then steel rotors.

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  50. #250
    mtbr member
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    May 2007
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    5,165
    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Rotors showed up today. Nice to see they are under claimed weight, both of my 160mm are 53 grams. Checked the rotors on a piece of glass and they are perfectly true. Cleaned the rotors with Acetone and a lint free rag. Only running the front brake for now which is XTR 985 Race with new Shimano Resin pads. Torqued rotor bolts to Kettle's specs and in a criss-cross pattern. Noticed rotor was no longer true, so I backed off all 6 bolts and re-torqued, rotor was then true. If you are having issues with the rotor not true I would try re -torqueing and make sure you are using a torque wrench.
    I was running a Aligator Windcutter 180mm which had great power. After removing rotor, adapter and Ti adapter bolts I saved 90 grams going to the Kettle rotor.
    Followed Kettle's bed-in process with applying the brakes 12 times. Rotor's braking surface looked good & fully scrubbed in, but I had no braking power. I continued the brake-in process doing another 6 sets of 12 braking applications. It slowly got better, but I'm at approx. 60% braking power. With day light leaving me and arm pump setting in, I called it a day. I'm surprised the power is so poor with XTR 985, as these are very powerfull brakes with steel rotors. I'm going to stick with these and try another 5 or 6 sets of 12. I think these will be good in the long run, its just going to take awhile to bed them in as others have mentioned.

    I don't see the ballon weight for your bike. With all that carbon, I don't see how it stays on the ground
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

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