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  1. #301
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    I'm not happy with kettles customer service. Or rather their lack of. I'm in Australia and my rotors were shipped more than 30 days ago. 2 days after shipping the tracking says they were at the sorting facility in Chicago and then nothing since. They seem to be MIA.
    3 emails to kettle have now gone unanswered. I'm getting pissed off and want my rotors or my money back.
    I know things can and do go wrong but to just ignore customers who laid money down in good faith on an idea is poor form.
    Anyone else having problems? I know they are unhappy about negative comments being posted but maybe if they respond to customers emails it could be avoided.

  2. #302
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    I have no problem using a pad they produce in order to get similar power to my xt 785's.. I wonder if the pads would be carbon also--making them last muchhhhhh longer.... That would be cool---lighter rotor-- carbon pads-- cost a bit more but lasts a lot longer with all the benefits of carbon brakes.. Look forward to see what is to come with the pads..

  3. #303
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    I have been reading this thread with interest. I have the M785's with 180/160 RT86's. I am a clyde at > 300lbs on a 29lbs 29'er. I have complete confidence with my brake system. I have come around a switchback and had riders on the trail headed my way and I was able to stop QUICK more then a few times. Our trails here in NM are WAY OVER CROWDED. There is no way you will see me on the trails on a weekend. It is a ZOO, but nevertheless, I have yet to hit anyone or even come close to hitting anyone. Therefore, this is why you need a good, no GREAT breaking system on you bike. Never mind the steep hills or other stuff people are talking about, safety is key.
    Moreover, I have yet to hear any wet braking reports. MotoGP is using Carbon rotors and I am sure they are the best money can engineer, but only on dry races, in a wet race they use steel due to carbon not working wet, I also believe the F1 is the same with their wet/dry racing. If these rotors are down on power in the dry I would wonder about there wet performance.

    Mark
    2012 XXL Carve Expert

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctguru View Post
    my final config.
    180 front and rear with organic pads,
    i am using 200 x 180 so i was thinking go to a 200 back rotor in carbon that might yield similar performance to the 180 steel. If that works out maybe try out a front carbon. I am a sucker for bling

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by millertm View Post
    Moreover, I have yet to hear any wet braking reports. MotoGP is using Carbon rotors and I am sure they are the best money can engineer, but only on dry races, in a wet race they use steel due to carbon not working wet, I also believe the F1 is the same with their wet/dry racing. If these rotors are down on power in the dry I would wonder about there wet performance.

    Mark
    F1 use carbon/carbon brakes with carbon pads which have an operating temp range between 700*F and 1800*F. If its lower than 700 degrees they lose braking power. Moto GP probably has something similar to the SICC rotors but they still need to be hot to operate well enough for racing. The rain keeps their brakes cool which reduces their braking power, so they use steel in the rain. F1 does still use the carbon brakes in rain.

    Kettle's SICC rotors use carbide, ceramic, carbon construction. The materials in the SICC rotor are supposed to be there for cold stopping power which apparently still doesn't work as well compared to steel rotors when using pads designed for steel rotors.

    Carbon does dissipate heat insanely quickly so I would think you'd have to try a lot harder to overheat the calipers on a hydro brake. Like has been said I don't own them yet so I wouldn't know. I haven't read anyone complain about brake fade yet.

    I'm still going to give them a try once they get their shipping sorted out and they deal with the many customer claims they have right now.

  6. #306
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    There are lots of promises made over these rotors and they just do not deliver. I just want to state that I have installed and burned in the rotors as recommended. This includes a torque wrench and cleaning with acetone. These have been used on two brake sets with new pads. Most brake systems have 30-40% extra power beyond locking your wheels. The powerful ones like Shimano and Formula have even more. The Siccc rotor gives you 60-70% of the power to lock the brakes. This is only 50% of steel rotors and there is no reserve power. They work okay at average braking levels with extra pressure on the levers, but as soon as you need oh **** power they are maxed out. No matter how much you crush the level they will not give you more stopping power. Started out with Avid Elixir CR with sintered pad and had no power. The rotors did not like sintered pads. They take forever to burn in and I never dared take them on the trail. Now I have XTR with resin pads, stupid strong on steel rotors. Burn in was much faster and I even took them out on the trails. My experience level is expert and I have built several bikes from the ground up. I was really hoping for good things from these rotors. There have been experiments with Siccc specific pads that are promising. I hope that this is sorted out soon as I really like the idea of super light rotors.
    FYI
    My steel rotor modulation is perfect.
    A sharp knife is safer than a dull knife.

  7. #307
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    I see that r2-bike also sells them.

  8. #308
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    I am really happy with mine (suit my XC style of riding and set-up)

    110 kg, 29er

    running 180 front and rear

    elixir 9 brakes

    only need to use 1 finger to stop, but don't have many massively steep descents when I live in Australia

    I would never go back to steel

    BUT.....


    They take a really really long time to bed in

  9. #309
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    @ctguru how long?

  10. #310
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie_MTB View Post
    @ctguru how long?
    I think nearly 100-200km!

    They were terrible to start, but are getting better and better everyday I use them

    I've got 2 sets, commuter and my off-road trail wheels


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  11. #311
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    I am happy with my rotors, The brake modulation is awesome compared to steel, that is what I really care about. I don't need or want to be able to lockup the wheel and skid. I am able to lock the wheel up if I want to with these rotors. Having your brakes properly adjusted is important, you may need to bleed your brakes to get them right. I had to on the rear.


  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by pistonbroke View Post
    I'm not happy with kettles customer service. Or rather their lack of. I'm in Australia and my rotors were shipped more than 30 days ago. 2 days after shipping the tracking says they were at the sorting facility in Chicago and then nothing since. They seem to be MIA.
    3 emails to kettle have now gone unanswered. I'm getting pissed off and want my rotors or my money back.
    I know things can and do go wrong but to just ignore customers who laid money down in good faith on an idea is poor form.
    Anyone else having problems? I know they are unhappy about negative comments being posted but maybe if they respond to customers emails it could be avoided.
    Did you send the emails through the ticket system? Replying to emails started from a ticket will not reach Kettle Cycles, there is a problem with the web-hosting service that is being resolved, replies must go through the website.

    Please make a new ticket or log in and check the status of an older ticket.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcjacob21 View Post
    Update on my usage (original post #282)- After an extended break-in period, I'm extremely happy. I raced the Counting Coup today (local Socal Race with two approx. 4K ft descents). These things worked incredibly well. I had more power then I needed when charging into a switchback. There were a few stream crossings and I didn't seem to lose any power when they were wet. Also, the power seems to increase slightly as they get warm..the opposite of steel. This is a nice benefit on long descents. They always had enough power, but just more as they warm up. The only negative aspect was the front (180mm) was screeching at times, but it was never constant. At this point, I've put locktite on the rotor bolts and they're staying on!
    Some more info on my prior posts:
    Burn-in period with XTR trail brakes and resin pads was about 150 miles, possibly longer.

    Just to give you an idea of the type of rider I am and my bike - These rotors are on an Epic 29. I weigh 170-175. I typically race expert level Super D/Enduro and also some endurance XC events like the recent Counting Coup in SoCal. In the recent CC, I finished in the top 10 overall out of a field of 140+. According to the holy grail Strava (joke), I had one of the fastest times down the longest descent in the race (Holy Jim) and the fastest time down the steepest section (upper Holy Jim). This trail has a lot of tight switchbacks and high speed sections. I used one finger braking as always and had plenty of power with these rotors. I never experienced any fading!! Do the Ice Tech rotors provide more power? Most likely, but with my setup I was really pleased, particularily with the modulation and no fading (my steel rotors always fade on this descent). Anyway, my point is I'm not a newbie and I didn't want anyone to think I like to p*ssyfoot when descending, and that's why I found these acceptable...
    Last edited by Jcjacob21; 04-08-2013 at 06:02 PM.

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcjacob21 View Post
    Some more info on my prior posts:
    Burn-in period with XTR trail brakes and resin pads was about 150 miles, possibly longer.

    Just to give you an idea of the type of rider I am and my bike - These rotors are on an Epic 29. I weigh 170-175. I typically race expert level Super D/Enduro and also some endurance XC events like the recent Counting Coup in SoCal. In the recent CC, I finished in the top 10 overall out of a field of 140+. According to the holy grail Strava (joke), I had one of the fastest times down the longest descent in the race (Holy Jim) and the fastest time down the steepest section (upper Holy Jim). This trail has a lot of tight switchbacks and high speed sections. I used one finger braking as always and had plenty of power with these rotors. I never experienced any fading!! Do the Ice Tech rotors provide more power? Most likely, but with my setup I was really pleased, particularily with the modulation and no fading (my steel rotors always fade on this descent). Anyway, my point is I'm not a newbie and I didn't want anyone to think I like to p*ssyfoot when descending, and that's why I found these acceptable...

    If you are fastest down the descents that just means the brakes are not working..........

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    If you are fastest down the descents that just means the brakes are not working..........

    Ha! Yeah, I was in control for at least a few seconds on that 30 minute descent! Now if I could just find rotors to help me ride faster uphill.... = )

  16. #316
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    Can't anyone order them from their kickstarter page anymore in those special prices? And if not what's the cost of the 160mm sfl rotors?

  17. #317
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  19. #319
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  20. #320
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    Received my 180 last week. I am using Shimano M-675 SLX's and after mounting rotor and centering caliper, all is silent. Folowed the burn in recommendations to the T, although getting up to 20 MPH isn't a possibility with my setup....lol

    Carbon Brake rotors-20130402_215238.jpgCarbon Brake rotors-20130402_215143.jpgCarbon Brake rotors-20130402_215517.jpgCarbon Brake rotors-20130402_215448.jpg


    I have put about 40 miles on the new rotors and I love them. There is no comparison to steel when it comes to modulation(as you can imagine very important when using a brake on a unicycle!), and overall braking performance has improved greatly. These things are silent, even in heavy braking situations. They seem to get better every ride!

    I know this is a mountain bike forum, just wanted to give another perspective on usage and results with the new Kettle Cycle rotors.

    cosmo

  21. #321
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Rad dude!

  22. #322
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    Is this thread broken for anyone else when using "Linear Mode" from the Display drop down?

  23. #323
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    yes

  24. #324
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    Still waiting for mine to show up. Kettle sent an e-mail on March 27 or 28 saying they had been shipped. Supplied a USPS tracking number which tells me the package is in a sorting facility. That's a lot of sorting time. I would guess though that the package is actually in transit but stuck in customs at the border or something.

  25. #325
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    Mine were shipped on March 27 or 28 said the email from Kettle. USPS tracking number search says the package is still in the sorting facility. My guess is that the package is in transit but stuck in customs at the Canadian border.

  26. #326
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    Ha it worked. Whinge about something and then there they are in your in basket at work. They will be installed tonight and bedded in for a test ride. Since I live at the bottom of a long hill I am thinking that will be a great way to bed in.

  27. #327
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    I posted this before, but it didn't show up in the thread, let's see if it works now, it summarizes my own experience
    First Impressions: Kettle Cycles SiCCC SFL Carbon Disc Brake Rotors & More News! - Bike Rumor

  28. #328
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    Mounted and bedded in and ridden for an easy ride along the beach. I also rode some easy trails in the local park. Pea gravel freeways. XTR trail brakes, 180 and 160 rotors, resin Shimano pads. Seem to be well bedded in. They lack that bite that metal pads on steel rotors have but they stop fine. I can skid the rear and front brake if I try. I can do stopies too but it takes more body language to do it. The rear is well centred but the front has a little wiggle. I rotated a couple holes on the hub but it still rubs the same. Minor issue though as the wheel spins just fine and it's hard to hear it riding. Will try my torque wrench when I get home to Whistler tomorrow.
    Last edited by someoldfart; 04-11-2013 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Spelling

  29. #329
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    Mounted my front 160mm this morning.

    Running XTR race brakes - had to re-bleed to get enough clearance, but managed to get it to fit - barely - but no dragging. I'm using new Alligator organic pads, so we'll see how it goes. (There was a suggestion that folks had more luck with organic, so we'll see.)

    Ice Storm here today, so burn-in runs not going to happen. Boo.

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlS View Post
    K.... I'm just going to say it outright... They just don't work for me when I need them to. I have 180/160 SFL with brand new XT brakes and organic pads. 150 miles on them. When you get on something with a long steep downhill and need to stop fast, they don't. For 80-90% of the riding I do, yes...they work fairly OK. but they don't work for the super steep-loose-gnarly stuff. seriously... YIKES! I have not heard from anyone that has had success with them in extreme conditions. for XC - light AM riding... sure. but I dropped a hill the other day that had huge vert loss (about 1000 feet in less than a mile of tight switch backs) and they just failed to slow me down fast enough. I had to double finger the lever which I have never had to do with steel rotors. I do hope that Kettle comes out with a better pad material that will work for me. I really want them to work like steel rotors. but they don't with the current pads Im using.

    I hate to slam them, but want to give others a real idea if whats going on. don't talk them up if you have not tried them out in real trail condiitons.
    UPDATE: I had some success over the weekend by adjusting the levers on my XT brakes out much further than I would with steel rotors. I normaly like having my levers close to the grip as I feel that I have better ability to wrap my hand arund the grip and don't have to "reach out" with my finger to pull the lever. After turning the adj screw several rotations and bringing the lever much further out, this much improved the feel of the brakes. I was able to stop faster going into blind singletrack turns at speed. I was so fed up with these rotors and was about to put steel rotors back on, but now I think I will keep running them. They still don't have the stopping power in extreme conditions, but worked for me for 95% of the ride I did Saturday. I pre-rode the 29 mile Idyllwild Spring Challenge course and if you know this route, the only place that I had trouble was coming down the middle south ridge downhill from the top of may valley road. that part of the trail is really more of a "downhillers" trail very steep, loose and rutted. the rest of the route was fine and I had control of the bike where as before I always thought that I was going to fly off the trai into the bushes and rocks.

    So if you have XT brakes and previously liked having levers closer to the grips, try adjusting them out quite a bit. I would bet that there is also room for improvement with the "bite" sdjustment screw, although I have not played with that yet. Before with steel rotors I never noticed any change with stopping power with messing with either adjustments, but with the carbon rotors it seems that they need to be adjusted just right for them to work. I would try to pass this onto Kettle, but I still don't quite understand how their "ticket" feedback system works.

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlS View Post
    I would try to pass this onto Kettle, but I still don't quite understand how their "ticket" feedback system works.
    Create, or log into, an account on buykettlecycles.com. Click 'My Account' in the upper right hand side of the screen. On the left hand side of the screen under the quick links header click 'Customer Support' which will open a window to create a ticket.

    When a ticket is replied to, you will receive an email with a text copy of the reply and a link to the ticket. If you wish to reply to the ticket you must click the link and complete the reply in the browser form. Direct replies in the email are not received.

    I know this is not ideal but it is how the system currently works. steps are being taken with the vendor to address this shortcoming.
    Last edited by tequeman; 04-15-2013 at 01:27 PM. Reason: typo

  32. #332
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    OK I've got a couple rides on them now with another ride in between on my dualie which has standard XT brakes, same rotor sizes 180 and 160. On significantly steep trails the carbon rotors are barely powerful enough. Bike with me is maybe 170 pounds. I'll keep using them for a while but the trails I ride can be pretty steep and technical and strong brakes are needed.

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Is this thread broken for anyone else when using "Linear Mode" from the Display drop down?
    Yes, and it's a real PITA.

  34. #334
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    Got an interesting mail this morning re the Kickstarter program. Here's a snippet:

    "We've since shipped our SiCCC rotors all over the world and a vast majority of customers enjoy their SiCCC rotors and the riding experience that comes with it. But there are those, for whom the experience is too much of a departure from the norm. At the same time we always wanted to simplify the adaptation and make sure our product appeals to as many riders out there as possible.

    We are therefore going forward with implementing C-Processing in house. This results in a more plug and play rotor which is easier to bed in and provides very consistent results for a wide variety of riders. The finished SiCCC rotor becomes more dense and stiff, but it requires standard Resin/Organic or SiCCC pads and delivers a consistent bite at the end stroke with a small reduction in modulation. Under general terms, this is a much closer to a more traditional grabby, power rotor. It will NOT work with sintered, metal, kevlar or unknown pads. C-Processed rotors' complete dislike of all other pads is we moved away from it during development.

    We are offering to C-Process any current SiCCC SFL rotor, free of charge, for anyone preferring a more traditional bite/power feel. All two piece rotors for kickstarter rewards, like all rotors being made from now on, will be shipping C-processed for simplicity and continuity."

  35. #335
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    I got that too. My rotors have yet to leave the their box so I may ship them out.

  36. #336
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    I got the same one, I guess this means I'll give them another chance.
    It speaks good of Kettle trying to please us "the not so vast majority of their customers" who were not so happy with them.
    I'll send them to get them "C-Processed" and keep my fingers crossed.

  37. #337
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    I will also send them too

  38. #338
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    Is there any advice / info on the C-processing vs the SICCC pads they seem to be offering? Forum member Magura seemed to find that using an SICCC-like material for pads solved his power issues with the Kettle rotors. Will a non-C-processed rotor + SICCC pads have as good power as a metal rotor? Or is the point that to get metal-like power one has to C-process the rotor, and then SICCC or organic pads will both perform equally...?

  39. #339
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    I've been watching these threads. And getting ready to build up a new bike. I could tolerate $100 per rotor. But at $150, they just lost a customer.

    I hope they are successful. But I think they are going to have to get their manufacturing to a point where these rotors are affordable.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  40. #340
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    We have moved SiCCC rotor production to a more traditional bite and feel. Here is the condensed version:

    1. IF you like your original SFL rotor, do nothing.
    2. IF you want more traditional grab/feel, follow the C- processing instructions and use resin/organics.
    3. IF you want excessive grab, follow the C-processing instructions and use SiCCC pads.
    4. IF you are waiting for 2 piece rotors, your SiCCC friction ring is already C-Processed and you should use a Organic / Resin pads that have not been used on steel. Or you have the option of buying SiCCC pads, but you should really try them first on a standard orgainic/resin.
    5. All future two piece and SFL SiCCC rotors will be C-processed, and only factory race teams etc can get any other processing.
    6. All C-Processed rotors have a serial number starting with a C.

    Instructions how to get a rotor re-worked.

  41. #341
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    Aaron will you be making Hope Tech M4 pads?

    Also the FREERETURNSHIP doesn't work for international shipping?

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie_MTB View Post
    Also the FREERETURNSHIP doesn't work for international shipping?
    Another one bites the dust, I already payed my $23.99.
    They could have stated, freereturnship "only US"

  43. #343
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    It was $19.99 :-(

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie_MTB View Post
    Aaron will you be making Hope Tech M4 pads?

    Also the FREERETURNSHIP doesn't work for international shipping?
    The code should work, thank you for bringing this mistake to our attention. International customers please hold tight while we resolve this issue. Doccoraje you will be refunded

  45. #345
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    I believe we have fixed the intl. shipping code, only pads/ services can be in the cart.

    Those who paid a shipping charge will be refunded.

    Those who feel like they need to buy SicCC pads, you really may want to try organics/resin on the Cprocessing first.
    This is all about simplifying. You buy a siccc rotor, you run organic or resin. And the option exist to have even more bite/grab/power with the SiCCCC pads.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carbon Brake rotors-steel-rotor2.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-siccc-cp-deceleration-2.jpg  


  46. #346
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    Well!!! that was quick, thanks to both of you.

  47. #347
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    I sent my rotors in and had them C processed should get them back in the next day or two. I will be testing them with Shimano XTR race organic pads. Stay tuned for reports.

  48. #348
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    can you use SiCCC pads on the original SiCCC rotors? (non C-processed?)

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctguru View Post
    can you use SiCCC pads on the original SiCCC rotors? (non C-processed?)
    no, the original rotors are not compatible with the SiCCC pads.

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by tequeman View Post
    no, the original rotors are not compatible with the SiCCC pads.
    thanx for the info

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    I believe we have fixed the intl. shipping code, only pads/ services can be in the cart.

    Those who paid a shipping charge will be refunded.
    It still wants me to pay $23.99

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  52. #352
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    Just thought I'd add this feedback from a mate that put on a 180mm SFL disc on to his MTB (not a C-processed one)

    I put the 180 on the mountain bike and put it through its paces on the weekend. It didn't need much of a bedding in process before i was getting as much bite as i get with a steel rotor. It has a better feel than steel though before that bite point. It feels as hard as steel, but perhaps it is the lack of perforations in the braking track that makes it feel smoother. I did a 45km 1500m climb up and down mt nebo with some very fast long descents with hairpin turns that you need to wash off speed urgently.

    I am leaving it on for the trip to mt buller starting thursday. I am very impressed that they feel so good, not noisy at all, without having changed pads (using xtr finned icetech resin pads).
    Seems he's pretty happy

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelB View Post
    Just thought I'd add this feedback from a mate that put on a 180mm SFL disc on to his MTB (not a C-processed one)



    Seems he's pretty happy
    Does anyone else find it strange that some people are reporting that they work great and others (like myself) are really not satisfied with the power at all. And using the same exact brake pads? is there a inconsistancy in the rotor production, or what is it? I bed mine in very gradually as per instructions. Would like to meet up with the southern CA rider who says hw raced VC with them. I will be at Rwanda 50 this weekend wearing a MVMG jersery and riding my Orbea with very spooky brakes.

  54. #354
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    ^ Be more aggressive on the bedding.

  55. #355
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    oh turst me, I'm way beyond bedding. I have 150+ miles on them now. And I have become adjusted to them and can do most of my usual rides, but I'm not satisfied. I will try sending them in for this C finish, and the new pads (too bad I just bought brand new shimano pads)

    It's really hard when I go back and forth between my AM bike with super-powerful brakes and steel rotors to my XC bike with the SICCCrotors. hard to adjust to the lack of power.

  56. #356
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    I wonder if the differeing response is a caliper issue, pad issue or even an expectation issue ?

    Hard to tell, as it could even be a combination of factors.

    Either way, I'm still interested, but don't have the spare cash at the moment.

  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlS View Post
    oh turst me, I'm way beyond bedding. I have 150+ miles on them now. And I have become adjusted to them and can do most of my usual rides, but I'm not satisfied. I will try sending them in for this C finish, and the new pads (too bad I just bought brand new shimano pads)

    It's really hard when I go back and forth between my AM bike with super-powerful brakes and steel rotors to my XC bike with the SICCCrotors. hard to adjust to the lack of power.
    If they are like race car pads, it doesn't matter how many miles you have on them, if they weren't bed in properly in the first place.

  58. #358
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    Anyone know why Kettle recommends resin for Shimano brakes on their rotors? Feel preference? I tried resin for a while but there wasn't enough bite. Tried new metal pads and there is more bite and I think an acceptable amount of bite.

  59. #359
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    I am using original Formula R1 pads with Scrub Race Day rotors before changed the rotors with SFL rotors without changing or doing anything to the pads, aligned the calipers and they were better than the Scrub rotors the first time I was on the bike on my way to church last Sunday. The church is a couple of kilometers away and I was just bedding them in everytime I stopped for the red lights. There's just a little howling at very low speed right before the bike stops and alignment issues that were solved by adjusting the calipers again (R1s are tight), but aside from that, I am happy with the rotors. I have two more pairs to install on my other wheels, but racing with V-brakes until almost 4 years back when I got too busy, I am not sure I need the C-processing. I haven't raced with disc brakes yet, so I don't know how much bite I really need, but my Scrubs were better than the Vs and these carbon rotors are even better. I'll wait for reviews from those who have had their rotors C-processed.

  60. #360
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    Agreed Formula R1's are a tight fit. Adjusting mine the past 30 and taking a break now. SFL's do have a slight warp to them which is a peav of mine and is the reason for taking so long aligning. I will try to adjust. If I cannot get it, I will undo, rotate and re tighten as Kettle suggests. Then try before deciding if C-Process is necessary.

    I ride pretty aggressive and some of these reviews are scaring me.

  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Agreed Formula R1's are a tight fit. Adjusting mine the past 30 and taking a break now. SFL's do have a slight warp to them which is a peav of mine and is the reason for taking so long aligning. I will try to adjust. If I cannot get it, I will undo, rotate and re tighten as Kettle suggests. Then try before deciding if C-Process is necessary.

    I ride pretty aggressive and some of these reviews are scaring me.
    Pls use shim over the bolts head direct contact with rotors if you want to do so...

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by jos3ph4ever View Post
    Pls use shim over the bolts head direct contact with rotors if you want to do so...
    I know how to shim and adjust brakes but I do not understand exactly what your sentence means jos3ph4ever. Can you be more clear.

    I found I can bend my SFL rotors straight like steel rotors while mounted. Only a hair rub now. Will see if they have found their original shape today.

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    I know how to shim and adjust brakes but I do not understand exactly what your sentence means jos3ph4ever. Can you be more clear.

    I found I can bend my SFL rotors straight like steel rotors while mounted. Only a hair rub now. Will see if they have found their original shape today.
    Yikes, didn't know bending these was an option. (?)

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Yikes, didn't know bending these was an option. (?)
    Well it's more of a finesse tweak of a mm here and there... NOT an 30° bend or anything.

    My result was a nice alignment with no rub noise... That is until I braked and back to original warp.

    Only a hair of space in the F1's.

  65. #365
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    I find it more plausible that the mounting surface of a hub is off vs these being off

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikemtb999 View Post
    I find it more plausible that the mounting surface of a hub is off vs these being off
    Extralite is pretty precise with their machining but I will look into it.

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikemtb999 View Post
    I find it more plausible that the mounting surface of a hub is off vs these being off
    NO. not in my experience. Mine used to be perfectly straight and now after sevral long bouble fingered "oh shi*" downhill episodes, now I am noticing some run out and even a little noise now from the rear.

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikemtb999 View Post
    I find it more plausible that the mounting surface of a hub is off vs these being off
    One of mine started off straight, and after taking it off and putting it back on it is a bit out of true. I think the mounting bolts can crush the carbon a little, either on install or under braking stress. Then they don't mount up straight anymore.

    There was a little crunching sound on tightening some of the bolts the first time, Kettle's site says that is normal. Of course, I could have been overtightening the bolts, but I went to the low end of what I consider safe on a rotor, where it won't loosen up after a while. I figured I would rather have the rotor break in my garage than on the trail because I left the bolts loose.

    I would guess the open back of the bolt holes on the SFL rotors makes it easier for the rotor to deform. Maybe I am wrong about the bolt holes causing them to go out of true, whatever, I just wanted to say mine went out of true also.

  69. #369
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    sounds like blue loctite and light torque would help or perhaps a shim or small washer to spread the pressure

  70. #370
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    What I noticed was that one of my rotors had some debris in the mounting slits that I couldn't fit some of the rotor bolts in. They were of the same material as the rotor like if you cut a hard plastic with a grinder and it gets to hot that the plastic starts to melt and hardens around the portion you ground. That's how it looked so I took a round file and removed those debris. I think these debris are the reason why the rotors won't mount flat on the hubs, but I don't know about the tolerances of different hub brands when they are made so I may be wrong. I have installed only 1 pair, I'll check my 2 other pairs and if I can see the same thing, I'll take a picture later when I come home and post it here.

  71. #371
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    Same experience here. Front rotor mounted straight out of the box, but not any longer. I bolted the rotor as per Kettle specs using a Park Tool torque wrench

  72. #372
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Hmm interesting news for sure. I'm still waiting on my two piece rotors. I'm hoping they won't have the same issues as the 1 piece.....

  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ilikemtb999 View Post
    Hmm interesting news for sure. I'm still waiting on my two piece rotors. I'm hoping they won't have the same issues as the 1 piece.....
    They shouldn't do, as the problem with the sfl rotors are having just slits for the mounting bolts instead of holes which you get on normal rotors and the 2 piece rotors.

  74. #374
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    C processed ones. Look a little darker and thinner. Going for a ride on them tomorrow.
    <a href="http://s122.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2345_zps5f733c97.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2345_zps5f733c97.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2345_zps5f733c97.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://s122.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2344_zpsecf9f69e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2344_zpsecf9f69e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2344_zpsecf9f69e.jpg"/></a>

  75. #375
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    Mine work a lot better with the metal Shimano pads. I never liked organic or resin pads around here because they do not grip any rotor well enough for my tastes and needs. Many of Whistler and North Vancouver descents are steep and slow so you are on the brakes the whole time to keep the speed down. Often enough when I tried resins I would get going too fast and blow through corners into the toolies. or I would have to start braking well back of whatever corner or feature I was coming up on.

    You can't change the power of the brake by changing the rotor but you can change the grip. I am thinking the claims of better modulation Kettle make are really just claims of less grip. I find that after about five hours of riding with the metal pads that that combo works better for me. Not as much grip as metal on steel rotors, but close enough.

    All considered I am disappointed in the performance though. They are lighter and quieter so I will keep them on for the time being.

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    C processed ones. Look a little darker and thinner. Going for a ride on them tomorrow.
    Thanks huge time for sharing. Thinner would be welcomed as I could barely fit the originals into my XTR setup. Plz post as to grabbing power. (Also, plz indicate brake pads you are using.)

  77. #377
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    ****Update****
    First some setup
    XTR race with new resin pads.
    DT swiss 240 hubs
    locktighted on with titanium bolts to 30in/lbs
    C-processed 180mm +-1mm true
    Okay so I ran them on the front for 20-30 miles ending in a 25 minute downhill that I took at a slow speed and dragged the brakes on and off. The caliper got pretty hot and the pads glazed by the time I was at the bottom. Never even close to enough power for a front brake. Removed and remounted on the back with freshly sanded pads. Did a couple test runs and there seems to be minimum safe level of power ie I can lock the rear wheel with some effort. This is okay because the XTR's with 180mm is super overkill power and a lot less should work perfect. I'm going to order the SiCCC Brake Pads for the front and see how they work out. If they can match the feel of steel I would be happy.
    So new C processed with resin pads still lack the power of steel and are only a small improvement over the original.
    <a href="http://s122.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2380_zps37450079.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2380_zps37450079.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2380_zps37450079.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://s122.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2382_zpsfeba1ca3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2382_zpsfeba1ca3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2382_zpsfeba1ca3.jpg"/></a>
    Last edited by alexbn921; 04-30-2013 at 10:39 AM.

  78. #378
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    Thanks for the update Alex, not exactly the news I wanted to hear, I'll do my own testing as soon as I get them back, but the cost of shipping back and forth, mmhh! well, I was told I was going to be refunded, when? that's another story.

  79. #379
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    Is there some other labeling to distinguish between C-Processed rotors and non? The "Darker and thinner" visual is fine if you happen to have two side-by-side, but how else can one tell the diff?

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsxtc View Post
    Is there some other labeling to distinguish between C-Processed rotors and non? The "Darker and thinner" visual is fine if you happen to have two side-by-side, but how else can one tell the diff?
    One of the reps said early that the new manufactured rotors will have a "C" at the beginning of the serial number

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarBoom View Post
    One of the reps said early that the new manufactured rotors will have a "C" at the beginning of the serial number
    Correct - you can see that in Alex' first photo. Thx again for sharing Alex.

  82. #382
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Anyone tried C processed rotors with the new Kettle manufactured pads?

  83. #383
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    I have given a good north shore test to non c processed rotors, XTR trail brakes with Shimano metal pads. Better grip than resin pads, but not as grabby as with the ice tech rotors. No noise to speak of. I went through a number of wet patches and did not notice any difference in braking. I think I like them grabby though. I really had to pull hard in a number of higher risk places to keep my speed down. It may be that these rotors are not North Shore compatible. Maybe c processed with their pads would work better?
    Last edited by someoldfart; 04-30-2013 at 09:41 PM.

  84. #384
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    Sorry I bothered to read this thread for a month instead of installing my non c process 160 SFL rotors. They took normal setting up, not sure about you guys but my XT's are a sealed system and didn't require any bleeding, just following of Shimano's instructions and depressing the piston's when installing new pads (Swiss Stop Organic). I weight about 190 lbs with riding gear +24 lbs bike.

    I was pretty nervous about running these, and I was waiting around for someone to really demonstrate that they can be ridden hard. My old pads were worn and I didn't want to wait any longer despite my worry that these will get me hurt.

    First Ride:
    Due to all of the negative review on this forum I chose the first ride to be on non technical fire roads with a lot of climbing and downhill. I didn't want to fly off a cliff lined single track if the review were true. I did not adjust the calipers after putting the rotors on so they rubbed a bit, and the levers were a bit far away considering the slight increase in break pressure required to lock the wheels up. However 6k downhill with no scares or close calls. Just easier to slow down safely on very loose dirt and gravel due to great modulation, and no fade at the end of longer open sections. These benefits do require you to squeeze the lever a bit harder in some conditions, and the power does not come in an on off manner that we are accustomed to with the modern disc brakes.
    Mountain Bike Ride Profile | Powered by 2 empanadas and a sprite/HR/Power Data is WAY off... near Los Gatos | Times and Records | Strava

    Second ride:
    They were dialed for the next ride where I took them to fairly technical singletrack where if you go off the trail, your not going to work for a while... Had no problems. When I wanted to, I was able to keep a higher average speed than normal without feeling scared as I knew the power was there and it would slow me down without being jerky.
    Mountain Bike Ride Profile | Shredding + Aerobics near Redwood City | Times and Records | Strava


    Conclusion:
    If you want to lock the wheel up, squeeze a bit harder than on metal rotors......

    If you want to slow down to < 5mph before each corner on a long downhill your hands will probably get exhausted and you will think these rotors suck.

    However, these do work as advertised.
    Last edited by velojonthan; 05-06-2013 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Semantics

  85. #385
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    well, thanks you guys for getting this off the ground for the rest of us

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    I believe we have fixed the intl. shipping code, only pads/ services can be in the cart.
    Those who paid a shipping charge will be refunded.
    Any news about refunds?

  87. #387
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    Can we start a new thread?

    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    Any news about refunds?

    This is the thread about the "carbon brake rotors" and your subjective/objective reviews. I think it's important that this new (to biking) technology be tested by the end user and we share our experiences for others to make their own decisions.

    If we need to have an Internet discussion about shipping and handling can you guys start a new thread and this one be about riding the product?

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by velojonthan View Post
    This is the thread about the "carbon brake rotors" and your subjective/objective reviews. I think it's important that this new (to biking) technology be tested by the end user and we share our experiences for others to make their own decisions.

    If we need to have an Internet discussion about shipping and handling can you guys start a new thread and this one be about riding the product?
    Cool down, I'm asking because I posted here before MY experiences and was told here by Aaron that there was going to be a refund for shipping charges of my "carbon brake rotors" sent for C-processing.

  89. #389
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    please use the ticket function doccoraje

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by tequeman View Post
    please use the ticket function doccoraje
    Thanks for letting me know.

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by velojonthan View Post

    Conclusion:
    If you want to lock the wheel up, squeeze a bit harder than on AL rotors.......
    However, these do work as advertised.
    Just curious, which Al rotors were you using?

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    Just curious, which Al rotors were you using?
    Several Verieties of Hope Saw. Avid Clean Sweep XX. Shimano XT

    160's

  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by velojonthan View Post
    Several Verieties of Hope Saw. Avid Clean Sweep XX. Shimano XT

    160's
    Those are not AL, the only Al rotors I know are Stan's and they are discontinued.

  94. #394
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    Any updates on C processed rotors?

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie_MTB View Post
    Any updates on C processed rotors?
    I haven't got mine back yet, but I got the shipping charge refunded.

  96. #396
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Still anxiously waiting for my "2 piece" rotors. I had to buy steel rotors so I could finally ride this season

  97. #397
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Annoyed.
    I paid for my rotors in December and they were due in February. They were posted in early March but lost in transit. Thank you DHL. Kettle said they would send another set and I'm still waiting. I have not received any tracking details or even confirmation that they've been sent.
    Where are my rotors???
    They are no longer responding to my enquires and I have now asked for a refund.
    Terrible customer service. Be warned.

  98. #398
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    C processed rotor are almost identical to first batch as far as braking power and modulation is concerned. Power sucks and modulation is amazing. I have been using a 180mm on the rear and it has great feel at the limit and has not overheated. 180mm has the same power as a 140mm or small rotor. I also ordered the pads to tried out on the front. Until they come in, the steal stays on. Kettle might be working on 3rd generation SFL rotor that has a carrier to better handle the bolt loads and stop warping.

  99. #399
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    Carbon Brake rotors

    Sent to me via pm
    Quote Originally Posted by tequeman
    Please email info@kettlecycles.com about your missing rotor/refund. I cant tell who you are on this forum. Please understand that there are only 3 of us and I am doing everything in my power to answer emails expediently.
    I have emailed you. I have also sent 2 enquires through your ticket system that have gone unanswered. Where are my rotors? Or where is my refund?

  100. #400
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    I've also sent several emails and opened a support ticket. Yet no replies :-(

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