Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 201 to 300 of 770
  1. #201
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    271
    @ gotfish8 -

    First, those look fantastic mounted. Thanks for the comment on modulation. Any further comments on noise, use in the wet, power etc. Those of this that have been following the SICC pads would love a real world write-up.

    Thanks
    AG

  2. #202
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ms6073's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by jos3ph4ever View Post
    Just received today from Malaysia..the one I installed on rear seem like have a little bend.
    Got my rotors last week and mounted them on a set of Enve Twenty9 XC tubulars with DT 240S 6-bolt disc hubs for use on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc cross bike. I am running Shimano CX75 mechanical disc calipers with the stock pads (resin) and the rotor up front works well and after a 45-minute test ride, has good braking and is very quiet. Unfortunately I cannot say the same for the rotor on the rear wheel because despite mounting/unmounting/mounting, the rotor appears to be warped in one section where the rotor moves ~3-4mm laterally. This was not an issue with the Ashiman Ai2 rotor the Kettle rotor replaced but I will need once again remove the Kettle rotor so i can set it on a flat surface to confirm if it is indeed warped. While it could be the hub, at this point, I am doubtful that one of the disc mounts on a DT Swiss hub would be off by that much!

  3. #203
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Got my rotors last week and mounted them on a set of Enve Twenty9 XC tubulars with DT 240S 6-bolt disc hubs for use on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc cross bike. I am running Shimano CX75 mechanical disc calipers with the stock pads (resin) and the rotor up front works well and after a 45-minute test ride, has good braking and is very quiet. Unfortunately I cannot say the same for the rotor on the rear wheel because despite mounting/unmounting/mounting, the rotor appears to be warped in one section where the rotor moves ~3-4mm laterally. This was not an issue with the Ashiman Ai2 rotor the Kettle rotor replaced but I will need once again remove the Kettle rotor so i can set it on a flat surface to confirm if it is indeed warped. While it could be the hub, at this point, I am doubtful that one of the disc mounts on a DT Swiss hub would be off by that much!
    The flatness tolerance is very tight, I expect you will find the same as jos3ph4ever that a remount dislodges a piece of debris and it's perfect. The rotors start much thicker and are ground in a way that controls the thickness, and this after they are 'set' as a ceramic. If it is somehow not flat, please call or contact us through the support ticket and we will get you sorted out. thx.
    Last edited by Aaron.S; 03-06-2013 at 05:03 PM.

  4. #204
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ms6073's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    158
    Aaron,

    Thanks for the followup. This morning I once again removed the rotor and this time laid it on a granite countertop and would estimate that this showed the rotor was within +/-2mm of laying flat. Next, I placed the wheel in the truing stand (budget model for basic truing), and was able to use my Harbor Freight digital vernier caliper to perform some adhoc checks for hi/lo variation on the face of the rotor disc mounts. I did this by placing the micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Last edited by ms6073; 03-07-2013 at 03:27 PM.

  5. #205
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,317
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    The flatness tolerance is very tight, I expect you will find the same as jos3ph4ever that a remount dislodges a piece of debris and it's perfect. The rotors start much thicker and are ground in a way that controls the thickness, and this after they are 'set' as a ceramic. If it is somehow not flat, please call or contact us through the support ticket and we will get you sorted out. thx.
    Thanks for supporting this so well. I know it's hard to see all these different internet forums, but when we see support like this, we are willing to take a chance on something unknown or a little pricey.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  6. #206
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Motomatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    167
    I am eagerly waiting to try mine with my mini hope brakes, I am currently using Scrub rotor's which work great, I love the look of the Sicc rotors.

  7. #207
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    Carbon Brake rotors-badhub.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Aaron,

    Thanks for the followup. This morning I once again removed the rotor and this time laid it on a granite countertop and would estimate that this showed the rotor was within +/-2mm of laying flat. Next, I placed the wheel in the truing stand (budget model for basic truing), and was able to use my Harbor Freight digital vernier caliper to perform some adhoc checks for hi/lo variation on the face of the rotor disc mounts. I did this by placing the micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Now it makes sense. Quick mock up shows what .5mm hub flange from left to right would do, one would hope the 6 would provide a better average. 21.4-19.6 = 1.8 go figure.

    I guess we better start sourcing shims to help solve hub issues so that we can help in this situation.

    I really appreciate you taking the time and not just blaming the rotor!

  8. #208
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    162
    Thanks Aaron,

    I look forward to my rotors arriving. Hopefully my CK hub has no issues!
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	badhub.jpg 
Views:	308 
Size:	21.9 KB 
ID:	778533

    Now it makes sense. Quick mock up shows what .5mm hub flange from left to right would do, one would hope the 6 would provide a better average. 21.4-19.6 = 1.8 go figure.

    I guess we better start sourcing shims to help solve hub issues so that we can help in this situation.

    I really appreciate you taking the time and not just blaming the rotor!

  9. #209
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Aaron,

    Thanks for the followup. This morning I once again removed the rotor and this time laid it on a granite countertop and would estimate that this showed the rotor was within +/-2mm of laying flat. Next, I placed the wheel in the truing stand (budget model for basic truing), and was able to use my Harbor Freight digital vernier caliper to perform some adhoc checks for hi/lo variation on the face of the rotor disc mounts. I did this by placing the micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Still start a support ticket, if bolting them up tweaked the rotor, we will have to sort you out.
    Thanks again.

  10. #210
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    2
    @Kettle rotor owners

    I would like to know, if the mounting hardware was included in your purchase?
    And if so, are the bolts made from steel or titanium?

    Regards

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarlS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    183
    just got mine today 180/160

    no harware here. the 180 looks great, but the 160 looks like it has a blimish or maybe even a chip in the outer edge about 1" long. I guess I will try it anyhow and see how it works. as long as it works i dont care about the finish.

  12. #212
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ms6073's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    158
    Those of us who got rotors via the Kickstarter campaign did not have an option for hardware although Kettle offered black Ti bolts when they opened there webstore.

  13. #213
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    7

    Got mine!

    Got my 180/160 today. Mounting was straight forward, bedding in went easily. I had a difficult time centering the calipers, but I always have problems with that. I did manage to get them to run absolutely drag free though, so I'm pumped about that! They're stronger than the stock Formula one piece steel rotors for sure. I plan on riding tomorrow so I'll update with on-trail performance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carbon Brake rotors-img_0376.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_0377.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_0378.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_0379.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_0380.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_0381.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_0382.jpg  


  14. #214
    Workin for the weekend!
    Reputation: -Todd-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,282
    Now that looks impressive. This is definitely one of my next mods. Love the creativity in the use of materials.

  15. #215
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    326
    Has there been any treatment done to the rotor where it mounts to the hub so as to avoid galvonic corosion?

  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    10
    I appear to be misinformed please disregard this post.
    Last edited by tequeman; 03-10-2013 at 12:10 PM. Reason: guess i was wrong

  17. #217
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    430
    Quote Originally Posted by AlienRFX View Post
    Has there been any treatment done to the rotor where it mounts to the hub so as to avoid galvonic corosion?
    I would assume that since there are no metals in the construction of the rotor, galvanic corrosion is a non-issue.

  18. #218
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    I would assume that since there are no metals in the construction of the rotor, galvanic corrosion is a non-issue.
    I'm more concerned about the hub possibly corroding where the rotor bolts up. Of course this concern could be totally unfounded.

  19. #219
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    267
    Carbon can still cause galvanic reactions with metals. It's very mild and most times not an issue, but it does happen.

  20. #220
    Thumper
    Reputation: WickedLite's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    379
    I missed Kettle Cycles on Kickstarter by 5 minutes but am glad to see they are up and running. My order for a couple sets went in the day the store opened and I am eagerly awaiting them. Ship date is March 18th.

    After everything I read about these it's an all win win part.

    Lightest rotor, doesn't hold heat, long lasting, compatible with all pads and strong enough for all mtbing.

    Carbon and aluminum can have a reaction but I believe salt has to be in the mix. Many carbon and aluminum frames/ parts out there are bonded together with no issues. If you're really worried, I'm sure a slice of wax paper, vinyl sticker or even vaseline in between them would work. I'm not worried on this.

  21. #221
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    Galvanic corrosion will occur- at temperatures in excess of 1000c /1832F

  22. #222
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    111
    Aaron - are the Kickstarter March 160mm rotors still going to ship this coming week (as per your last update)?

  23. #223
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12

    Carbon Brake rotors

    Yes they are

  24. #224
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Yes they are
    Great to hear. Thanks.

  25. #225
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    7
    I got out for a ride yesterday with 180/160 rotors. I'm using Formula RX brakes with the Al backed organic pads. My original post with pictues is on page 9. I rode three AM trails with varying technicality, speed, and grade (if you're familiar with Aliso in Southern California, Rockit, Carwreck, and Lynx).. On the first, braking was slightly weaker than on my well worn steel rotors. Not much though, still one finger braking and I could brake the rear loose easily. On the second, Carwreck, they started biting much better. By the bottom they were as strong as with steel rotors. On the third, I forgot about the new rotors, which is great. I guess I should have done more bedding in before the ride, but it worked out anyway. They don't rub at all and they're completely quiet (no chirps, warbles, honks, squeals, or whines). And of course they look great and garner attention and questions on the trail. Since I'm in Southern California I may not get much of a shot at this "wet weather riding" I keep hearing about, but I will post another update if I do.

  26. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    354
    Which pads are you using excactly? Would you have a link where to get them? There are few options on the 'bay. I would like to save a few more grams with alu. backed pads, but they actually must work together with the rotors.

    Chris.

  27. #227
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    10
    Stock Shimano resin pads work very well
    Last edited by tequeman; 03-11-2013 at 03:56 PM.

  28. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    143
    Aaron,
    Any plans to make these rotors in 203mm? I will be happy to buy some and put them through some abusive tandem related testing. I have road and offroad tandems that work disc brakes very hard. I am really interested to see how these might perform for my unique needs.

    Thanks,
    Steve

  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    7
    I got my pads at my LBS, just asked for aluminum backed organic pads for the RX. I'm fairly certain they're the "organic-lightweight" listed at chainreactioncycles dot com (I can't post links until I post 10 posts I guess).

  30. #230
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by Stevoo View Post
    Aaron,
    Any plans to make these rotors in 203mm? I will be happy to buy some and put them through some abusive tandem related testing. I have road and offroad tandems that work disc brakes very hard. I am really interested to see how these might perform for my unique needs.

    Thanks,
    Steve
    We make 203mm, in the normal SiCCC (two piece) and SFL styles.

  31. #231
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,083
    Hi
    I just got my Kickstarter 180mm rotors. Looks well constructed near perfectly true. Installed front on Dt Swiss 240 Enve wheel with Avid Elixir cr with new sintered pads. Burned in pads per instructions and power is at about 5-10 percent. Perfect pad transfer layer. Hopefully it will improve as the pads wear in. Will try cleaning and putting them in the sun. I check the temperature of the rotors after several 20 mph slows(stopping as fast as I could) and they where cold to the touch. Calipers and pads were warm. I feel that they will get better with time. Will report after next ride.
    Last edited by alexbn921; 03-12-2013 at 07:01 PM.

  32. #232
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    @alexbn921
    Avid with stock 'sinter' pads are what we use on a demo bike to show lower powered brake systems work well.
    Something is off.
    Are the pads from Avid?
    Rotors from a different company, any company usually changes your engagement. If you did the sprints to -light- braking you should be smiling ear to ear.
    We apparently need to clarify the burn in, that is why I bring that up.
    Several have gone out with hard pulses which lays down uneven clumps of film.

    That's the only trick, so when someone has an issue with a brake system we have many many miles - even dyno with avid elixirs - we have to figure out the missing puzzle piece.
    And unless you got the direct msg through kickstarter about baking, it does not apply to your rotors.

    You can call or do a support ticket as well. Just please don't facebook, twitter or pm here.

  33. #233
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by dmclemens View Post
    I got my pads at my LBS, just asked for aluminum backed organic pads for the RX. I'm fairly certain they're the "organic-lightweight" listed at chainreactioncycles dot com (I can't post links until I post 10 posts I guess).

    Does your RX with carbon rotors makes any noise?

    jx

  34. #234
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,083
    Hi Aaron
    I am not trying to bash the rotors. I feel that there is an expectation that they will work right out of the box and not need extra burn in time vs a steel rotor. I fell that as long as we are informed, we know what to expect from the performance of the rotor. I have edited my post to reflect that I do believe these are an awesome product and will just need some extra time to work perfect. I will also report my view as a consumer, so that others can make an informed decision. FYI I have never been happy with my weak Elixers. Changing them out to XTR Race tonight. Will report good and bad. Cheers

  35. #235
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,317
    Quote Originally Posted by dmclemens View Post
    Got my 180/160 today. Mounting was straight forward, bedding in went easily. I had a difficult time centering the calipers, but I always have problems with that. I did manage to get them to run absolutely drag free though, so I'm pumped about that! They're stronger than the stock Formula one piece steel rotors for sure. I plan on riding tomorrow so I'll update with on-trail performance.
    Be honest,
    Did you only get these because they match your Mojo raw carbon frame?
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  36. #236
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Hi Aaron
    I am not trying to bash the rotors. I feel that there is an expectation that they will work right out of the box and not need extra burn in time vs a steel rotor. I fell that as long as we are informed, we know what to expect from the performance of the rotor. I have edited my post to reflect that I do believe these are an awesome product and will just need some extra time to work perfect. I will also report my view as a consumer, so that others can make an informed decision. FYI I have never been happy with my weak Elixers. Changing them out to XTR Race tonight. Will report good and bad. Cheers
    Just changed my hope to XTR Trai with metal finned pad(f03c),the power create so far is better than hope and able to stop when I wan to stop(still in bedding process).
    This is third brakeset since I received this rotors........

  37. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,317
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Galvanic corrosion will occur- at temperatures in excess of 1000c /1832F
    OK, So my trip to ride on Mercury is out until you fix this problem.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  38. #238
    mtbr member
    Reputation: IPA Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    344
    I'm still looking for some insights into how true these things stay...the idea of not having to tweak rotors to eliminate rub is pretty attractive.

    Of course the downside would be if there is a problem with their true-ness, then it seems like you would be SOL...
    Riding: '91 Carbon Epic Stumpjumper w/1" Slicks and a Rack on the Back

  39. #239
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,484
    Quote Originally Posted by IPA Rider View Post
    I'm still looking for some insights into how true these things stay...the idea of not having to tweak rotors to eliminate rub is pretty attractive.

    Of course the downside would be if there is a problem with their true-ness, then it seems like you would be SOL...
    I'm sure there won't be an issue with true-ness, otherwise Kettle is dead in water with these. I'll be mounting mine on two different makes of hubs so we'll see. I'm a Feb. backer, so hope to see my rotors soon.

  40. #240
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    We spend almost as much on grinding services as the carbon weave per rotor. They are inspected twice each. By people who know their craft and take pride in their work.

    We can also tell by inspection when a rotor has been over-torqued to a hub that has an uneven mounting surface. There is a reason the industry torque spec is low, and it's more important with ours than steel because you can bend the steel to compensate.

    I am no means trying to argue, it is simply an invitation to contact us if there is an issue.
    The rotors work, they work with a wide variety of pads /systems and they do ship flat.
    IF that is not your experience we want to figure out why and help. I really want to understand what and why you did not have a smooth experience so we can make sure we are doing everything we can to hone our communications and instructions and our over all product experience.

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    15
    What the price tag on these?

  42. #242
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by ekcyclops View Post
    What the price tag on these?
    SFL - SiCCC Brake Rotors

  43. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,484
    Rotors showed up today. Nice to see they are under claimed weight, both of my 160mm are 53 grams. Checked the rotors on a piece of glass and they are perfectly true. Cleaned the rotors with Acetone and a lint free rag. Only running the front brake for now which is XTR 985 Race with new Shimano Resin pads. Torqued rotor bolts to Kettle's specs and in a criss-cross pattern. Noticed rotor was no longer true, so I backed off all 6 bolts and re-torqued, rotor was then true. If you are having issues with the rotor not true I would try re -torqueing and make sure you are using a torque wrench.
    I was running a Aligator Windcutter 180mm which had great power. After removing rotor, adapter and Ti adapter bolts I saved 90 grams going to the Kettle rotor.
    Followed Kettle's bed-in process with applying the brakes 12 times. Rotor's braking surface looked good & fully scrubbed in, but I had no braking power. I continued the brake-in process doing another 6 sets of 12 braking applications. It slowly got better, but I'm at approx. 60% braking power. With day light leaving me and arm pump setting in, I called it a day. I'm surprised the power is so poor with XTR 985, as these are very powerfull brakes with steel rotors. I'm going to stick with these and try another 5 or 6 sets of 12. I think these will be good in the long run, its just going to take awhile to bed them in as others have mentioned.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carbon Brake rotors-img_4987_1.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_4990_1.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_4989_1.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_4991_1.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-img_4988_1.jpg  


  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Rotors showed up today. Nice to see they are under claimed weight, both of my 160mm are 53 grams. Checked the rotors on a piece of glass and they are perfectly true. Cleaned the rotors with Acetone and a lint free rag. Only running the front brake for now which is XTR 985 Race with new Shimano Resin pads. Torqued rotor bolts to Kettle's specs and in a criss-cross pattern. Noticed rotor was no longer true, so I backed off all 6 bolts and re-torqued, rotor was then true. If you are having issues with the rotor not true I would try re -torqueing and make sure you are using a torque wrench.
    I was running a Aligator Windcutter 180mm which had great power. After removing rotor, adapter and Ti adapter bolts I saved 90 grams going to the Kettle rotor.
    Followed Kettle's bed-in process with applying the brakes 12 times. Rotor's braking surface looked good & fully scrubbed in, but I had no braking power. I continued the brake-in process doing another 6 sets of 12 braking applications. It slowly got better, but I'm at approx. 60% braking power. With day light leaving me and arm pump setting in, I called it a day. I'm surprised the power is so poor with XTR 985, as these are very powerfull brakes with steel rotors. I'm going to stick with these and try another 5 or 6 sets of 12. I think these will be good in the long run, its just going to take awhile to bed them in as others have mentioned.
    Loved your extra lite hubs.

  45. #245
    ●●●●●●●●◌◌
    Reputation: phlegm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,255
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Galvanic corrosion will occur- at temperatures in excess of 1000c /1832F
    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    OK, So my trip to ride on Mercury is out until you fix this problem.
    Sorry kids, thanks to mean-man Aaron, and his measly 1000 C-limited rotors, our trip to Mercury is cancelled. Seriously, no tears, or I pull this ship over at Venus...

  46. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    82
    Subscribed...xc71, keep us posted. I also posted in a separate thread that my buddy's XX showed really poor performance as well. In fact, when he mounted brand new organic XX pads, there was virtually no spacing between pad and rotors and it was rubbing constantly (as if the rotor was too thick). Yes, even re-seated the calipers. I'm waiting for my 2-piece, but I'm concerned now with all the feedback above.

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,484
    Quote Originally Posted by nsxtc View Post
    Subscribed...xc71, keep us posted. I also posted in a separate thread that my buddy's XX showed really poor performance as well. In fact, when he mounted brand new organic XX pads, there was virtually no spacing between pad and rotors and it was rubbing constantly (as if the rotor was too thick). Yes, even re-seated the calipers. I'm waiting for my 2-piece, but I'm concerned now with all the feedback above.
    My rotors were thicker than the steel rotors as well, but after bedding in the new pads mine to longer touched and ran silent.

  48. #248
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    403
    Anxiously awaiting my pair. I have New Shimano resin pads just waiting for the rotors. The hard part is that I live up a hill so bedding in as instructed may be a challenge but i am sure I can figure it out.

  49. #249
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,083
    Finally installed XTR race brakes with resin pads and did some burn in runs. Brakes are working much better and I think they are ready for a real ride. Checked run out +-.002. I little bit of rub that should go away one the pads wear in. Weight of 2 180mm 138.5g, damn that's light. FYI they are slightly thicker then steel rotors.

    <a href="http://s122.beta.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2216_zps6ebc39c3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2216_zps6ebc39c3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2216_zps6ebc39c3.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://s122.beta.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2244_zps5908ced8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2244_zps5908ced8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2244_zps5908ced8.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://s122.beta.photobucket.com/user/alexbn921/media/IMG_2215_zps97f10df8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o241/alexbn921/IMG_2215_zps97f10df8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_2215_zps97f10df8.jpg"/></a>

  50. #250
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,317
    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Rotors showed up today. Nice to see they are under claimed weight, both of my 160mm are 53 grams. Checked the rotors on a piece of glass and they are perfectly true. Cleaned the rotors with Acetone and a lint free rag. Only running the front brake for now which is XTR 985 Race with new Shimano Resin pads. Torqued rotor bolts to Kettle's specs and in a criss-cross pattern. Noticed rotor was no longer true, so I backed off all 6 bolts and re-torqued, rotor was then true. If you are having issues with the rotor not true I would try re -torqueing and make sure you are using a torque wrench.
    I was running a Aligator Windcutter 180mm which had great power. After removing rotor, adapter and Ti adapter bolts I saved 90 grams going to the Kettle rotor.
    Followed Kettle's bed-in process with applying the brakes 12 times. Rotor's braking surface looked good & fully scrubbed in, but I had no braking power. I continued the brake-in process doing another 6 sets of 12 braking applications. It slowly got better, but I'm at approx. 60% braking power. With day light leaving me and arm pump setting in, I called it a day. I'm surprised the power is so poor with XTR 985, as these are very powerfull brakes with steel rotors. I'm going to stick with these and try another 5 or 6 sets of 12. I think these will be good in the long run, its just going to take awhile to bed them in as others have mentioned.

    I don't see the ballon weight for your bike. With all that carbon, I don't see how it stays on the ground
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  51. #251
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    82
    @alex,

    Keep us posted. I'm running same XTR brakes and pads and anxiously waiting for your results. Stock 180mm XT ICE rotors weighs ~131g each so in essence, you shaved 1/2 the weight or ~1/8 lbs each wheel (1/4 lbs total).

  52. #252
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,083
    ---------Ideas on pad material ------ Softer is better-----------
    Most brake rotors have a high void area 30%-50%. This means that the contact area of the pad is reduced and the force is increased. This should have no effect on braking power, because the increase in pressure offsets the smaller surface area. This does have an effect on pad life. More void area will decrease the life of the pad and require that you use a harder sintered metal pad. Solid rotors like the SFL have almost no void area, so the pad force will be lower with a higher surface area. This should increase the life of the pad with no loss of stopping power. Now this is where the pads friction properties come into play. I donít have all the information, but my guess is that a softer organic pad will perform better at this reduced force and last for a long period of time. Also bigger rotors are better
    Tribology - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Applied Engineering Mechanics: Statics and Dynamics - Geoffrey Boothroyd, C. R. Poli - Google Books

  53. #253
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    ---------Ideas on pad material ------ Softer is better-----------
    Most brake rotors have a high void area 30%-50%. This means that the contact area of the pad is reduced and the force is increased. This should have no effect on braking power, because the increase in pressure offsets the smaller surface area. This does have an effect on pad life. More void area will decrease the life of the pad and require that you use a harder sintered metal pad. Solid rotors like the SFL have almost no void area, so the pad force will be lower with a higher surface area. This should increase the life of the pad with no loss of stopping power. Now this is where the pads friction properties come into play. I donít have all the information, but my guess is that a softer organic pad will perform better at this reduced force and last for a long period of time. Also bigger rotors are better
    Tribology - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Applied Engineering Mechanics: Statics and Dynamics - Geoffrey Boothroyd, C. R. Poli - Google Books

    The consensus is that users are having to apply a lot more pressure but still resulting in 30% degradation in power. I'm not sure how a softer pad will help here. I can attest to this personally on my buddy's setup.

  54. #254
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    I just got my 160's, will have to wait to install and burn them after Saturday, but, they sit totally flat on my crystal desktop.
    Will post impressions later to see if I am among the "consensus".
    They were spot on weight.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carbon Brake rotors-dsc01669.jpg  

    Carbon Brake rotors-dsc01670.jpg  

    Last edited by doccoraje; 03-17-2013 at 04:56 PM. Reason: adding pics

  55. #255
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100
    just received 2 sets of 180mm and installed

    bed in procedure followed as per Kettle

    New pads organic front/sinted rear, avid elixir 9 brakes

    not stopping as good as metal at the moment, hopefully get better as they 'bed in' a bit more

  56. #256
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    82
    Thanks for the update. There is currently three threads on mtbr on SICCC rotors and all have reported the same issues. Is there a way to combine the threads into one?

    Anyone reached out to Kettle and ask if they've seen similar issues during testing? I'm not liking the time and distance that these rotors have to bed in to get even almost the same performance as steel rotors. That's just unreasonable.

    I asked for a refund on my two-piece but they said Kickstarter's system doesn't allow for it. Instead, they said they could write me a check minus fees charged but they urged me to give the rotors a try.

  57. #257
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100

    Carbon Brake rotors

    Going to switch out pads

    Organic in the front is ok and going to put organic in the rear and see how they perform

    They slow the bike down, but when you would expect the bike to stop or lock up, that bite isn't there, hopefully going organic will be the solution


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  58. #258
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ms6073's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    placed a micrometer flush against the arm of the stand and measuring the differences between each of the 6-mounts which varied from as little as .05mm to possibly as much as .50mm. So while this seems like a very small degree of variation near the center of the rotors rotation, I am guessing this would exacerbate the lateral variance along that axis as you radiate out further from the hub. At this point, I am thinking it might be wise to check with the local machine shop that turned the flanges off my hollowgram spindles to see if they can also mill the hub's disc mount faces to achieve some tighter tolerances.
    Followup. Swapped the rotors from my Enve Twenty9 XC wheelset with DT Swiss hubs and mounted them on the set of Stans ZTR 3.30 I use on the 29er SS and with new pads on the SRAM XO calipers, and the rotors appear to work better with no discernible pad rub but have yet to get out on the trails to really test them out. Very surprised at the difference of disc mount faces between the Stan's and more expensive DT Swiss hubs.

  59. #259
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    326
    I would at least try giving your current pads a solid 50 miles of riding before changing stuff around.

  60. #260
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100

    Carbon Brake rotors

    Just changing to organic rear, front organic is ok


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  61. #261
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100

    Carbon Brake rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by AlienRFX View Post
    I would at least try giving your current pads a solid 50 miles of riding before changing stuff around.
    Did 50km on sintered and they were crap

    Just changed to organic rear and done 2km and they are fine

    Must have a dodgy pair of sintered pads or the rotors really prefer organic


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  62. #262
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    354
    Anyone got any information if the batch supposed to ship on the 18th of march actually did?

    Delivery times keep changing on the website.

    Chris.

  63. #263
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    162
    nope got delayed
    Quote Originally Posted by krzysiekmz View Post
    Anyone got any information if the batch supposed to ship on the 18th of march actually did?

    Delivery times keep changing on the website.

    Chris.

  64. #264
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drbelleville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    220
    Am not sure if some one asked already,

    Has anyone tried these with Maguras as the pad clearance is generally more than on other brands given they are designed around 2mm (width) rotor usage? And if so did you have any issues with rubbing or clearance?

  65. #265
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by drbelleville View Post
    Am not sure if some one asked already,

    Has anyone tried these with Maguras as the pad clearance is generally more than on other brands given they are designed around 2mm (width) rotor usage? And if so did you have any issues with rubbing or clearance?
    I did, bad luck I got thicker rotors (2.1 and 2.2mm), I tried on the front wheel and even with the pads pushed all the way in they barely fit, giving constant rubbing, so, I reinstalled the Storm and contacted them to see if this is common problem and find a solution, Aaron told me:
    "Pushing the pads in, won't always do it, sometimes a system is in need of a bleed or has fluid volume for thinner rotors"
    He will comment with Josh, who has more experience in dealing with Maguras and let me know the possible fix for it.
    My brakes are MT8's with new performance pads and not so new Storm 160 rotors.
    I really want them to work.
    By the way the one I tried was perfectly true.
    Last edited by doccoraje; 03-20-2013 at 09:31 AM. Reason: adding info

  66. #266
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    I did, bad luck I got thicker rotors (2.1 and 2.2mm), I tried on the front wheel and even with the pads pushed all the way in they barely fit, giving constant rubbing, so, I reinstalled the Storm and contacted them to see if this is common problem and find a solution, Aaron told me:
    "Pushing the pads in, won't always do it, sometimes a system is in need of a bleed or has fluid volume for thinner rotors"
    He will comment with Josh, who has more experience in dealing with Maguras and let me know the possible fix for it.
    My brakes are MT8's with new performance pads and not so new Storm 160 rotors.
    I really want them to work.
    By the way the one I tried was perfectly true.
    I guess they made this video in response to your query, so you may find it of interest:

    Kettle Cycles - SiCCC rotors: System Integration - YouTube


    BTW, I got mine already, I will try them tomorrow if I can, and I will report how they work (Avid BB7 road calipers, Clarks organic pads)

  67. #267
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by campaleches View Post
    I guess they made this video in response to your query, so you may find it of interest:

    Kettle Cycles - SiCCC rotors: System Integration - YouTube
    To bad MT8's don't have that option.

  68. #268
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarlS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    183

    Shimano pads with or without heatsink

    going to be trying my 160/180 rotors soon with XT brakes, and plan on getting some new pads for them.

    looks like organic is the way to go?

    does anyone know if I should get the pads with the heatsink fins or without? if they would work better one way or the other with the siccc rotors


  69. #269
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    Yes they are
    So I take it the 160 March Kickstarter batch didn't ship last week since I haven't gotten them and I live less than an hour away from your shop. Any chance they'll go out this week?
    Last edited by botanicbiker; 03-21-2013 at 10:54 AM.

  70. #270
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    2
    I've recieved my rotors in the mail this week:*180mm front + 160mm rear. Waiting for my new set of wheels to mount them on.

    I'm a little concerned though about all these user reviews that point out to a loss of brake power and biteÖ I'll test these with Magura Marta SL and let you know my findings.

  71. #271
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    837
    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    To bad MT8's don't have that option.
    i bled my mt8 with a thinner block to get slightly less clearance so i bet you could do the opposite

  72. #272
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    i bled my mt8 with a thinner block to get slightly less clearance so i bet you could do the opposite
    Well, I got them to work even without a bleed, my caliper was slightly off, now it is rotating free, with just a minimal rub, yes, they are not totally true.
    Bedding went ok, but as others have noted, power is getting there really slow, after 30 minutes of gentle braking, I'm getting 70% of the stopping power I had with Storms. I only installed the front one, I'll wait until I feel it "normal" to put the rear one.
    Not a lot of noise, just a continuous hissss when applying force to them.

  73. #273
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ms6073's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by campaleches View Post
    I guess they made this video in response to your query, so you may find it of interest:
    Kettle Cycles - SiCCC rotors: System Integration - YouTube
    Thats a really nice tool box in the background of the video.

  74. #274
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    354
    Has anyone got any info. when the rotors supposed to ship on Match 18 will actually do?
    I can't get an answer from them.

    Chris.

  75. #275
    Thumper
    Reputation: WickedLite's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    379
    Quote Originally Posted by krzysiekmz View Post
    Has anyone got any info. when the rotors supposed to ship on Match 18 will actually do?
    I can't get an answer from them.

    Chris.
    I just got notice that mine shipped out yesterday

  76. #276
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Motomatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    167
    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    I just got notice that mine shipped out yesterday
    Mine are on there way:
    This message was sent to you at the request of Kettle Cycles ltd, to notify you that they have shipped a package to you.

  77. #277
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    170
    I'm still to pull the trigger on these rotors, not due to worried about taking a risk but more about funding them and the fact I run Hope V2 brakes which require a 20mm braking track and these rotors have a 18mm track. (That's the risk as Aaron suggested that they won't be a good match due to this 2mm indiscretion, but all it takes is a little work with a dremmel to get 2mm off the size of the pad!)

    My take on some people suggesting that they lack in power is actually the fact they give you a lot more modulation in your braking than you are used to. Hope brakes give you loads of modulation and most people translate this into being a lack of power as they don't brake like Shimano and others where when you pull the lever you are nearly put over the bars instantly, where with Hope's the power comes on towards the end of the lever stroke. On a UK magazine test run on brakes it found the Hope's to be more powerful than the rest but a lot of people contested this as they imagine a more powerful brake to be instant and not graduated. This graduation of the power is the modulation you are looking for in a braking system, so you can control the bike a lot better, instead of an on/off sort of braking. I could be completely wrong but when I got the cash I can then find out for myself.
    Last edited by ruscle; 03-23-2013 at 08:31 AM.

  78. #278
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    20
    So here's my take. Running 160mm F/R with stock R1's. Did the break in process 12x and thought they felt great on the road till I hit trails. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! is pretty much was I was yelling praying they would stop. I would estimate I had about 50% power compared to a steel rotor. HOWEVER, by my third ride power was noticeable better, but not a 100% of a steel rotor.
    This weekend I spent a couple days in Ashland, OR chasing my brother had have learned a few things more. Power is up, but MODULATION is they key to these rotors. I did have to squeeze a little harder to get ALL OUT POWER but they slow, modulate, and don't fad. (some very steep, fast, smooth trails here). After spending some time on his brakes (elixer 5), I noticed his are just ON/OFF; very grabby and powerful, but on/off.
    I took 500grit paper to the pads and went out the next day. Noticeable improvement! Maybe in time they will generate more all out power, but I do like the increase modulation.

  79. #279
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    133

    Carbon Brake rotors

    I agree. They modulate much better than steel but lack the all out stopping power of the steel. Your experience is exactly like mine.

  80. #280
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by jc280 View Post
    I agree. They modulate much better than steel but lack the all out stopping power of the steel. Your experience is exactly like mine.
    +1

    also poor with sintered pads (well mine were)

  81. #281
    Ninja Master Powers
    Reputation: DWill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    516
    I had credit card in hand a few days ago. Glad I decided to wait a bit.
    Last edited by DWill; 03-24-2013 at 01:00 AM.

  82. #282
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    20
    I received my SFL rotors last week. I ordered the 180/160 combo. They weigh about 40-45% less than the Storm SL rotors they replaced. I mounted them up to my Roval Control SL wheels following their instructions for torque and bolt tightening pattern. The rotors were fairly true with very minimal rubbing that was easily eliminated by adjusting the calipers. I'm running XTR trail brakes with new resin pads. I followed their bed-in instructions. I did about 12 brake burn sessions and noticed them slowly getting better with each run. I ended up doing about 30 runs before hitting the trail. The brake power at this point was about 70% of what I had with Storm rotors.

    Once on the trail I really noticed the modulation is way better than the steel rotors (the new Shimano brakes had room for improvement in this area IMO). The first few descents I definitely noticed the lack of full power. That being said, with each descent the power kept getting better and better. By the end of the ride (43 miles with 4K ft of descending) I had about 90% power and had no issues standing the bike up on the front wheel before a tight switchback. I'm going to do a few more rides this week to see how much more power I can get out of them. Even if power doesn't improve too much more, I would recommend them at this early stage ownership. If you do go with these rotors, I recommend spending a couple of hours burning them in and then obviously be careful on the first few descents once on the trail.

  83. #283
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    @JcJacob, It's just about the same with mine, the only difference is that I'm using MT8 brakes. They still lack the final extra grasp the Storm gave. I started with the front brake, now I'm ready for using both.

  84. #284
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    82
    I have an update on my buddies SFL...

    After 50 miles of breaking in, He and I went down on went on a downhill ride together and chose a spot that we would just brake as hard as we can at the same time.

    I'm running XTR race with resin pads and XT ice rotors...he has XX brakes with sintered pads. Before I was leaving him in the dust where I could stop on a dime and he probably another 10 feet after me.

    Now after the 50 miles break in period He's able to stop the same distance as me. I feel very encouraged now that the stopping power is there albeit takes such a long time to bed in. Looking forward to my two piece but not looking forward to the long break in period.

    Btw I'm running 180/160 and he's running 160/160 so looks promising
    Last edited by nsxtc; 03-31-2013 at 06:08 PM.

  85. #285
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100

    Carbon Brake rotors

    ok
    after riding these on a couple of sets of wheels for a couple of weeks, I really like them
    they modulate a lot differently, but really suit how I ride

    they take a long time to bed in correctly and haven't used them in the wet yet
    only time a strike trouble is say riding to work which I have done for ages and I'm pre programed for where I brake

    no fade at all compared to my steel rotors

    would recommend them, but depending on your riding style, not for everyone

    my mate would hate them as he likes to lock the rear up into corners, so he likes the absolute stopping power of steel

    he runs a reign x with 200mm front and rear, sintered pads and weighs 85kg

    my final config.

    180 front and rear with organic pads, elixir 9 brakes

    29er anthem and I'm 6'4' and 100kg's


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  86. #286
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    I gave up, I took them away today and went back to Storm SL's.
    After two weeks of giving them a chance to bed in and gain all the strenght that was possible, I decided to quit, they definitly stop you, but, they lack the final extra grasp metal rotors give, modulation is awesome, but...
    Being a declared weight-weenie I'll miss the 80 gr weight loss over the Storm, but they are not for my ride style and terrain.
    I really wanted them to work, not at the expense of having to changing my way of riding.

  87. #287
    should be riding
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    12
    I personally was out of action for a bit, and that means workforce was down by 33%- much of our time is spent trying to maintain production, recover from vendor delays and trying to re-create any issues or feedback.

    We feel strongly about a superior braking option more akin to what cars do - rather than OTB grab. And doing it with a stock pad. With the burn in as a minor annoyance.
    But we get it, riders are saying 'power-loss', they want to do stoppies. We want to, and most importantly can, deliver which ever feel is desired. The material can be manipulated. In the rotor or pad. Or both.
    If you aren't getting what you want- we can manufacture it and take some unknowns out of the equation.

    The simple long term solution is to scrap stock pad compatibility and make much harder rotors and only our pads, we have loathed that option from the start, but one thing may tip the scales: Claims of warped rotors. Rotors are double checked before shipping and to have that complaint is frustrating. However, the solution for dealing with hubs which are not flat is to make the rotors stiffer/harder. That impacts pad selection even more - and will significantly impact price. But at least the rotor won't be influenced by a hub's lack of flatness as 'easily'. We could understand entry level hubs that weren't flat , I never saw a case in all the easton, ck and even stans and a few DT hubs involved in testing. Heat cannot warp them - well not at temperatures outside a furnance. Regardless of the situation, we need to check out 'warped' rotors, please create a CRM ticket and get an RA. And the sooner the better so we can evaluate.

    For those unhappy with bitepower, the pads are coming and this is a few days premature, but I am just asking for a bit of patience while we continue the spool up.

    Thickness, nominal of 2mm with our +/- of .1 because we need a realistic window for the grinding process. There is slightly more finesse in this operation than a steel. We don't want them restarted if they approach the minimum thickness.
    We understand steel rotors are getting thinner and thinner to save weight and material cost. We still have yet to find a system, that a 2.2 rotor doesn't fit when adjusted to pull the pads back , not just push them so they spring back. We did lower the ceiling last month to make the swap a smoother transition. A thin rotor does have the advantage in that the pad hanging off axis in the caliper won't make a dragging noise.

    I understand plenty of bike companies can deliver CS here on mtbr, most aren't going back in the shop and actually making their product, they are sending skypes and emails to china. We are the production, shipping, etc. It is admittedly too much for 3 guys, almostly always manning 24/7 furnaces/machines especially when we are still dealing with the kickstarter delays. It will improve immensely as the spring wears on, we promise.

    We are getting caught up with the CRM which has been broken, still is, but less so - and volusion is still working on it. If you reply to the email it's not going to work, you have to log in- but the rest is functional and we can see tickets again. And when the crm is working -we gain remote help from the king of europe and can better stay up on any questions/concerns.

    We can't move as fast as we nor our customers would like, but a bit of patience and all will be sorted. Thank you.

  88. #288
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    ^ Wow, good spin!

  89. #289
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    100

    Carbon Brake rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    I personally was out of action for a bit, and that means workforce was down by 33%- much of our time is spent trying to maintain production, recover from vendor delays and trying to re-create any issues or feedback.

    We feel strongly about a superior braking option more akin to what cars do - rather than OTB grab. And doing it with a stock pad. With the burn in as a minor annoyance.
    But we get it, riders are saying 'power-loss', they want to do stoppies. We want to, and most importantly can, deliver which ever feel is desired. The material can be manipulated. In the rotor or pad. Or both.
    If you aren't getting what you want- we can manufacture it and take some unknowns out of the equation.

    The simple long term solution is to scrap stock pad compatibility and make much harder rotors and only our pads, we have loathed that option from the start, but one thing may tip the scales: Claims of warped rotors. Rotors are double checked before shipping and to have that complaint is frustrating. However, the solution for dealing with hubs which are not flat is to make the rotors stiffer/harder. That impacts pad selection even more - and will significantly impact price. But at least the rotor won't be influenced by a hub's lack of flatness as 'easily'. We could understand entry level hubs that weren't flat , I never saw a case in all the easton, ck and even stans and a few DT hubs involved in testing. Heat cannot warp them - well not at temperatures outside a furnance. Regardless of the situation, we need to check out 'warped' rotors, please create a CRM ticket and get an RA. And the sooner the better so we can evaluate.

    For those unhappy with bitepower, the pads are coming and this is a few days premature, but I am just asking for a bit of patience while we continue the spool up.

    Thickness, nominal of 2mm with our +/- of .1 because we need a realistic window for the grinding process. There is slightly more finesse in this operation than a steel. We don't want them restarted if they approach the minimum thickness.
    We understand steel rotors are getting thinner and thinner to save weight and material cost. We still have yet to find a system, that a 2.2 rotor doesn't fit when adjusted to pull the pads back , not just push them so they spring back. We did lower the ceiling last month to make the swap a smoother transition. A thin rotor does have the advantage in that the pad hanging off axis in the caliper won't make a dragging noise.

    I understand plenty of bike companies can deliver CS here on mtbr, most aren't going back in the shop and actually making their product, they are sending skypes and emails to china. We are the production, shipping, etc. It is admittedly too much for 3 guys, almostly always manning 24/7 furnaces/machines especially when we are still dealing with the kickstarter delays. It will improve immensely as the spring wears on, we promise.

    We are getting caught up with the CRM which has been broken, still is, but less so - and volusion is still working on it. If you reply to the email it's not going to work, you have to log in- but the rest is functional and we can see tickets again. And when the crm is working -we gain remote help from the king of europe and can better stay up on any questions/concerns.

    We can't move as fast as we nor our customers would like, but a bit of patience and all will be sorted. Thank you.
    I like them

  90. #290
    RIDE...
    Reputation: MarcoL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    428
    I have SFL installed yesterday on my epic s-works, and BrakeForceOne Brakes and Pads, using german trickstuff alloy bolts, and treadlocker; in the beginning they were not stopping at all, Yesterday I took a long descent 2% of about 13 kms, after the pre-use, and the stopping power was awful, none, today I ran an uphill and in the downhill 6% I was making stops as indicated, and after 6 kms, the power got much much better, I hope to get more power tomorrow, will try to increase the bedding time in order to get more power, also like doccoraje I am a ww, I have tried hopes, formulas, storms, and Scrubs Race Day and Work Horse, also Magura MT8 and now BOF, Will keep informing about my experience on those

    edited to complete a word

  91. #291
    I <3 dirt
    Reputation: Ilikemtb999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,427

    Carbon Brake rotors

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron.S View Post
    I personally was out of action for a bit, and that means workforce was down by 33%- much of our time is spent trying to maintain production, recover from vendor delays and trying to re-create any issues or feedback.

    We feel strongly about a superior braking option more akin to what cars do - rather than OTB grab. And doing it with a stock pad. With the burn in as a minor annoyance.
    But we get it, riders are saying 'power-loss', they want to do stoppies. We want to, and most importantly can, deliver which ever feel is desired. The material can be manipulated. In the rotor or pad. Or both.
    If you aren't getting what you want- we can manufacture it and take some unknowns out of the equation.

    The simple long term solution is to scrap stock pad compatibility and make much harder rotors and only our pads, we have loathed that option from the start, but one thing may tip the scales: Claims of warped rotors. Rotors are double checked before shipping and to have that complaint is frustrating. However, the solution for dealing with hubs which are not flat is to make the rotors stiffer/harder. That impacts pad selection even more - and will significantly impact price. But at least the rotor won't be influenced by a hub's lack of flatness as 'easily'. We could understand entry level hubs that weren't flat , I never saw a case in all the easton, ck and even stans and a few DT hubs involved in testing. Heat cannot warp them - well not at temperatures outside a furnance. Regardless of the situation, we need to check out 'warped' rotors, please create a CRM ticket and get an RA. And the sooner the better so we can evaluate.

    For those unhappy with bitepower, the pads are coming and this is a few days premature, but I am just asking for a bit of patience while we continue the spool up.

    Thickness, nominal of 2mm with our +/- of .1 because we need a realistic window for the grinding process. There is slightly more finesse in this operation than a steel. We don't want them restarted if they approach the minimum thickness.
    We understand steel rotors are getting thinner and thinner to save weight and material cost. We still have yet to find a system, that a 2.2 rotor doesn't fit when adjusted to pull the pads back , not just push them so they spring back. We did lower the ceiling last month to make the swap a smoother transition. A thin rotor does have the advantage in that the pad hanging off axis in the caliper won't make a dragging noise.

    I understand plenty of bike companies can deliver CS here on mtbr, most aren't going back in the shop and actually making their product, they are sending skypes and emails to china. We are the production, shipping, etc. It is admittedly too much for 3 guys, almostly always manning 24/7 furnaces/machines especially when we are still dealing with the kickstarter delays. It will improve immensely as the spring wears on, we promise.

    We are getting caught up with the CRM which has been broken, still is, but less so - and volusion is still working on it. If you reply to the email it's not going to work, you have to log in- but the rest is functional and we can see tickets again. And when the crm is working -we gain remote help from the king of europe and can better stay up on any questions/concerns.

    We can't move as fast as we nor our customers would like, but a bit of patience and all will be sorted. Thank you.
    I and I'm sure other appreciate the response here and not just on the site/kickstarter. Regardless of the news; communication is key.

    Ill be waiting for pad options from you guys and I'm still enthusiastic about getting my 2 piece rotors.

  92. #292
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,083
    HK - Forums &bull; View topic - Carbon disc brakes
    Get link on pad selection and material science behind them. Making the rotor compatible with stock pads would be nice, but not at the expense of stopping power. The thickness of the rotor at 2mm should not be an issue on most properly adjusted systems. If special pads are required to achieve the required level of friction they could be made .1-.2mm thinner then stock pads. I see noting wrong with a pad rotor system as long as it weighs less and works great. This seems to be the whole idea behind the project. My rotors are back at Kettle awaiting an engineering solution.

  93. #293
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarlS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    183
    they want to do stoppies

    yes, we want to stop. stopping is good. not stopping is bad.

    I'm hopeful the new pads will work for those of us who like to stop.

  94. #294
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    251
    Quote Originally Posted by CarlS View Post
    yes, we want to stop. stopping is good. not stopping is bad.

    I'm hopeful the new pads will work for those of us who like to stop.
    Stopping = good
    Stoppies = overkill

    I understand not wanting to lose any power and effortless braking could be a personal preference. However, don't knock something that has what seems like more advantages than it does disadvantages.

    Advantages over steel rotor:
    1. Impossible to overheat on a mountain bike
    2. No warping
    3. Better modulation
    4. Lighter weight
    5. Cool factor of carbon

    Disadvantage
    1. About 30% less braking power depending on who you talk to. With current hydros even 30% less braking power can put you over the handlebars, you just squeeze a little harder.

  95. #295
    Maromero
    Reputation: doccoraje's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    Stopping = good
    Stoppies = overkill

    I understand not wanting to lose any power and effortless braking could be a personal preference. However, don't knock something that has what seems like more advantages than it does disadvantages.

    Advantages over steel rotor:
    1. Impossible to overheat on a mountain bike
    2. No warping
    3. Better modulation
    4. Lighter weight
    5. Cool factor of carbon

    Disadvantage
    1. About 30% less braking power depending on who you talk to. With current hydros even 30% less braking power can put you over the handlebars, you just squeeze a little harder.
    Have you tried them?

  96. #296
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    251
    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    Have you tried them?
    Nope, that's what reviews from people who have tried them are for. Besides the advantages that I listed are all pretty absolute. The only thing that will vary much is the braking power depending on the pads, your braking system and the personal opinion of what strong brakes are. 50 miles is a pretty long break in period but its not a big deal. With my mechanical brakes I doubt I'll have enough power to make the carbon rotors work after reading other people's experience.

    I plan on giving it a try anyway but sizing up to a 180mm rotor over my 160mm to get some of the braking power back. From what I've been reading it seems like all they need are the right pads to match up with a carbon rotor. If the rotors get enough support that I'm sure they'll start making specific pads for them. The one person who made their own carbon pads said they had brutal stopping power with the SICC rotors. I'm willing to spend some of my money to support a company who's making higher end equipment for an affordable price.

  97. #297
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post

    Disadvantage
    1. About 30% less braking power depending on who you talk to. With current hydros even 30% less braking power can put you over the handlebars, you just squeeze a little harder.
    This statement doesn't make sense to me. What if I can't even OTB with even 100% power on steel? What if I'm squeezing hard as it is now to try to stop with steel? The main reason for me to swap to carbon is for all the advantages you've listed, but if I'm getting 30% less than now and having to squeeze even harder, the advantages all goes out the door.

  98. #298
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CarlS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    183
    K.... I'm just going to say it outright... They just don't work for me when I need them to. I have 180/160 SFL with brand new XT brakes and organic pads. 150 miles on them. When you get on something with a long steep downhill and need to stop fast, they don't. For 80-90% of the riding I do, yes...they work fairly OK. but they don't work for the super steep-loose-gnarly stuff. seriously... YIKES! I have not heard from anyone that has had success with them in extreme conditions. for XC - light AM riding... sure. but I dropped a hill the other day that had huge vert loss (about 1000 feet in less than a mile of tight switch backs) and they just failed to slow me down fast enough. I had to double finger the lever which I have never had to do with steel rotors. I do hope that Kettle comes out with a better pad material that will work for me. I really want them to work like steel rotors. but they don't with the current pads Im using.

    I hate to slam them, but want to give others a real idea if whats going on. don't talk them up if you have not tried them out in real trail condiitons.

  99. #299
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,774
    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    1. Impossible to overheat on a mountain bike
    Any brake is a very simple thing. It turns momentum into heat. While you may not be able to "overheat" the rotor, you can still overheat your braking system. The heat has to go somewhere. The less heat the rotor can dissipate, the more heat enters the pads, caliper and fluid. Get enough heat into the fluid and it will expand and then boil. The key variable is how quickly a rotor can shed the heat that braking is generating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    3. Better modulation
    The reviews contain plenty of talk of better modulation, but I get the impression people are confusing less power with "better modulation". A brake with good modulation does not necessarily have to come at the expense of overall braking power.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    1. About 30% less braking power depending on who you talk to. With current hydros even 30% less braking power can put you over the handlebars, you just squeeze a little harder.
    I don't know how people are able to quantify changes in power like that. A little change in power is often over-estimated by users. Take the new Shimano XT brakes. Shimano claim a 10% increase in power, but if you read the reviews you'd think that the old Shimano brakes didn't work and the new ones are unbelievably powerful. All these % claims need to be taken with a grain of salt until someone actually tries some semi-scientific tests, like braking distances from the same speed.

  100. #300
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    20
    Update on my usage (original post #282)- After an extended break-in period, I'm extremely happy. I raced the Counting Coup today (local Socal Race with two approx. 4K ft descents). These things worked incredibly well. I had more power then I needed when charging into a switchback. There were a few stream crossings and I didn't seem to lose any power when they were wet. Also, the power seems to increase slightly as they get warm..the opposite of steel. This is a nice benefit on long descents. They always had enough power, but just more as they warm up. The only negative aspect was the front (180mm) was screeching at times, but it was never constant. At this point, I've put locktite on the rotor bolts and they're staying on!

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast