Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    19

    Cantilever to Linear Conversion

    Hi-

    I'm refitting my Trek 820 with newer components- pretty much everything but the wheels and shifters (which are pretty new).

    I just got a set of Avid SD 20s and 2.0L levers off of eBay, and I look forward to mounting them (when the levers arrive), but my problem is that as the frame was designed for cantilever brakes, there's no rear cable stop- and it's my understanding that you need one to properly mount linear pulls (if you were wondering, the frame has the tubular pass through thing brazed to the seatpost).

    Now, I bought a braze-on cable guide from my LBS ($1- can't go wrong), but the problem is that I don't have anywhere to go to that would braze it on for me. No bike shop around here has that kind of equipment, and the closest garage is afraid of melting a hole in my frame. So brazing/welding it on is out of the question. Would the cable guide tear off the frame if i epoxied it on? Is there any other way besides for brazing/welding it onto the frame?

    My next option would be to use my pretty new Shimano Alivio cantilevers and mount them in the back (they're mounted up front now). They wouldn't match the front brake, but I don't mind as long as they would work with the Avid SD 2.0L levers- am I correct in assuming that the speed dial on these levers can be adjusted so that they can be used with cantilevers?

    I'd much rather use the Avid brakes, but I don't want to resort to looking for a strap-on cable guide (I want the bike to look elegant)

    Thanks to all who can help/have input!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Wombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,813
    You could run full length cables and you would then not need the cable stops. The noodle then effectively acts as the stop. If you do this you also get the added benefit of longer life from your cables.

    wombat

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat
    You could run full length cables and you would then not need the cable stops. The noodle then effectively acts as the stop. If you do this you also get the added benefit of longer life from your cables.

    wombat

    I could, but that's ugly and unelegant, especially as the full length housing would need a zip tie to keep it on the frame- I'm trying to make this refit elegant.

    Thanks for the suggestion though- that was the only other alternative my LBS could offer, too.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EBasil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,062
    Well, how about running the housing from the rear noodle on the vee brake, through the loop your old housing used at the seatpost, but stopping at the first cable stop, ie where the canti housing stopped? The loop you ran through will keep things sano looking and out of the way. Just use nice quality housing, like Avid Flak, so it's not too stiff and throws your brake out of adjustment.

    If you have a place to stop the housing for the cantis, use the same one for that section of housing going to your vees.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by EBasil
    Well, how about running the housing from the rear noodle on the vee brake, through the loop your old housing used at the seatpost, but stopping at the first cable stop, ie where the canti housing stopped? The loop you ran through will keep things sano looking and out of the way. Just use nice quality housing, like Avid Flak, so it's not too stiff and throws your brake out of adjustment.

    If you have a place to stop the housing for the cantis, use the same one for that section of housing going to your vees.
    The braze on thing is too narrow to let brake housing pass through- it makes the entire brake aspect of this thing so annoying (and the headset and the bottom bracket are just a wee bit aggrivating as well, but I digress)

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    32
    http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.c...=49&SKU=BR1219

    I've been looking at one of these for similar reasons. Perhaps if you install it upside down you could get it inline with how the cable exits the bikes seattube guide.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    383

    Idea! Here is what you need

    I did this years ago when V-brakes first came out. It is a cable stop that is clamped around the top tube. It is not cheap, but will give you the clean installation that you are looking for.

    http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=285749328619

Similar Threads

  1. Bushing to bearing conversion for linkage frames
    By hiawatha in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-05-2004, 05:09 AM
  2. Conversion finished!!
    By tube_ee in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-26-2004, 05:14 AM
  3. need a disc only conversion project? [spam]
    By eSSq in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-21-2004, 03:06 PM
  4. Crank Conversion Issues
    By crapps in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-18-2004, 07:01 AM
  5. ss conversion...
    By mattmor in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-15-2004, 09:40 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •