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  1. #1
    better than I deserve
    Reputation: roblee's Avatar
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    Cable housing dilemma !

    So I have bought the last two components to complete my build.I won `t go into more detail as I feel I have overdone it already.

    Now I`m trying to decide if I want to run my cable housing full length or use the cable stops on the top tube.The alternative is to Velcro them along the top tube.I looked at my lbs and all the bikes were not running the housing full length.
    Some people drill out the stops so they feed the housing but I`m reluctant to do this.

    Install it the way the frame was intended (cleaner look) or go with full housing and use zip ties or Velcro? Pro`s and con`s Please!



    I have these.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    The only place I've used full length housing is my cyclocross bike's rear derailleur and that was only because it sees a lot of mud. If you expect to have mud issues, run the full length housing, otherwise, I don't see why you'd bother.

  3. #3
    T.W.O.
    Reputation: mimi1885's Avatar
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    Look them up at pricepoint I have good luck with both type so far
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  4. #4
    I do what I want
    Reputation: Guy.Ford's Avatar
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    I prefer full housing. IMO I would drill out the stops, Ive done it many times in past.
    Guy.Ford

    I'm not really an @sshole, I just act like one online.

  5. #5
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    I'd go full housing. a. less chance of fouling and b. simpler = less problems. What's the weight diff? Maybe a hundred grams at most?

  6. #6
    meow, meow.
    Reputation: J. Random Psycho's Avatar
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    A full large diameter housing is not the only way to prevent cable contamination. There are closed housings that are designed for use with cable stops. I'd recommend Nokon. It may be not to everyone's taste with derailer housing, but suits cable-actuated brakes very well (where you typically don't have the cable under tension all the time).
    26" faithful.

  7. #7
    empty beer member
    Reputation: WrecklessREX's Avatar
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    I used RC antenna tubing and heat shrink tubing between the cable stops on my cross bike. I had the stuff to do it, so why not. I only had to use it for the shifter cables since the frame is set up full length brake lines.

    You could also use the liner that comes with many kits for internal routing.



    [IMG][/IMG]


    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #8
    meow, meow.
    Reputation: J. Random Psycho's Avatar
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    WrecklessREX, yes, that also works and is good for when the frame has support for hydraulic hose of full housing, but not cable stops for mechanical disc brake. Another such option is to use stainless steel pipes from Avid Full Metal Jacket kit.
    26" faithful.

  9. #9
    empty beer member
    Reputation: WrecklessREX's Avatar
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    That frame has cable stops for the derailleurs, otherwise I would've ran full length housings. The Clarks kit I used came with 6 housing ends that seal the end of each length of housing. Those ends are just small enough to fit through the housing stops and that is what I used to heat shrink the tubing to. edit... My bb7s came with the same type of housing ends that stick through the stops about 1-1/2".

    I hope that makes sense?

    Sorry for the bad cell picks, I should've used the camera.

  10. #10
    meow, meow.
    Reputation: J. Random Psycho's Avatar
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    Now I see -- I should have looked more closely at the photos.

    The OP's frame seems suited for closed cable/interrupted housing setup, at least at the front triangle. So it's the opposite to when a steel pipe is useful. So I would not open up cable stops on frame except what clearance may be required to make a closed cable system's plastic tube fit through.
    26" faithful.

  11. #11
    better than I deserve
    Reputation: roblee's Avatar
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    I decided to run the cables the way the frame was designed to.I tried the brake w/ full housing first and like this and could not tell a difference.I think it just looks cleaner.Ran the rear brake down the middle slot and the two der.on the sides using Jagwire ferrules.

  12. #12
    Plays with tools
    Reputation: customfab's Avatar
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    depends on your conditions. Try the broken housing first. If it gives you fits with contamination then switch. Personally I'd rather run an interrupted sealed system than a full length. When you double the length of the housing it's going to make the brake softer. High quality housing can do a little to combat this but it only gets you so far. I prefer a really firm brake lever though.

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