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  1. #1
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    Brake set up on Hayes Stroker

    Ok, I just posted this in another guys thread (sort of-as he is considering these brakes). I have a set of Stroker Carbons. I did not really like the look of the levers but have since gotten past that and really think they are pretty frickn comfy. They work quite well, would probably work a little better if I had some rotors with more meat on them though (running KCNC's) but over all I am pleased.

    My problem is that they don't self center. I have been through the brake set up so often now that it has become second nature. I find myself having to recenter them after about 1-3 rides. I go as far as taking the caliper off the bike, inserting the spacer back in to move the pads back out and then start the set up process.

    Once the pads have been spaced and the caliper is placed back on the bike, I squeeze the lever to engage the pads on the rotor. I then snug the bolts down (1/4 turn-not tight but enough to hold it in place while squeezing the lever). I release the lever and find that it is rubbing on one side. I loosen the caliper bolts and repeat the process. Same results. Apparently, the caliper moves ever so slightly when the bolts turn. Tighten the bolt turning clockwise and the caliper shifts inwards, loosen to the right and it moves outwards.

    I have since put a little grease on the shperical washers and caliper tabs to try to get things to just slide instead of moving but this hasn't seemed to make much of any difference either. As a result, I have had to pretty much eyeball it every time to get it right and you almost need 3 hands to hold the caliper where you want it while squeezing the lever (could use a rubber band or something here) and then tighen the bolts.

    Anyone have any thoughts? Other than the, you should have gone with a different brake. Trust me, that thought has crossed my mind many times but money was tight and now I'm broke so I gotta make them work.

  2. #2
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    Try this http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG219 , click on "Centralize pistons" and watch the video. It works even on non-Hope systems.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  3. #3
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    I will give this a shot the next time it starts to rub and see if it helps any. They are set up good right now but we will see how the ride goes this afternoon. Got my multi tool with me just incase.

  4. #4
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    Just an update I got from Hayes today. I have not tried this yest as I am at work but thought I would share the tech tip with you guys in the event you are struggling with a similar issue. This should pretty much work on any hydro brake set up for the most part.

    OK, rereading things here a bit and I think I may have it figured out, and it may be silly simple to remedy. Grab your 5mm allen key and two business cards. Like I said, silly easy.

    Loosen the caliper mount screws up just enough so that the caliper slides on the mount easily. Sandwich the rotor with the business cards and guide the rotor and cards between the brake pads, one card between each side. Grab the brake and hold firmly. Now here's the kicker- lightly tighten down the top screw (not anywhere near full torque), then tighten down the bottom screw (again, nowhere near full torque). Go back to the top one and lightly tighten it some more, and then repeat on the bottom. Repeat the steps again until full torque is achieved. Once done, release the lever, pull the cards out, and give the wheel a spin. I'll wager it'll pass right on through.

    What happens sometimes is that there is a slight irregularity to the screw head, washer, or even the paint on the caliper that will cause it to bind up a bit as you tighten the screws down. This irregularity will cause the caliper body to twist ever so slightly on the mount, and voila, you got rub. Let me know how it goes, but as an FYI if you only get occasional rub on the ride, that is one of the downfalls of bikes in general, and qr's specifically. As you ride, things twist and bob around a bit, and these deflections cause a bit of brake chatter, especially in hard climbing and cornering, as the components come out of neutral plane with each other. Through axles are better at mitigating this, but even they aren't immune. It's just one of the prices we pay to have strong & light components.

    John Trusky - Warranty & Tech Support Coordinator Hayes Bicycle Group
    Ph: 888-686-3472 I Fax: 414-462-0214
    5800 W Donges Bay Rd Mequon, WI 53092

  5. #5
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    Sounds good! It will be put to good use tonight. I'm getting a used set on my bike. Thanks!

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