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  1. #1
    Weekend Warrior
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    Brake Pad Life Expectancy?

    I was wondering what life I should expect out of Disk Brake Pads. With V's I can tell just by looking at it, but with the disks, its harder too look into it without really taking them out. I got now semi metallic and they seem to be just a tad bit louder (in regards to contact to the disk, but there is no squealing) compared to the Organic that came with the BB7s.

    I'm just curious as I want to try maybe something like ceramic and don't want to throw away a good set if I don't have too. My Koolstop pads have awesome braking power but after riding a couple other bikes it has a little too much of that ON/OFF feeling.

  2. #2
    Botox User
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    What kind of brakes do you have? You can remove the wheel and use a flashlight to look into the caliper to check how much pad you have left.

  3. #3
    Weekend Warrior
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    bb7

  4. #4
    MTC rep for LPCPCAC
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    I use the dime rule. Check your pads regularly for wear. One the pad width is less than the width of a dime, it is time to replace them. I run through a pair about every 9 months. But I don't ride aggressively ride down hill. You might go through them quicker or slower depending on riding style and weight. Heavier riders will eat up pads quicker, all things being equal. My hayes pads run about 20 buck a set. They do wear faster than pull breaks but the work much better. I think the extra cost for the maintenance is better than sore hand from cramming on the break levers in a panic as I try to slow the run away train down!

  5. #5
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    @daleksic: nice to hear that now you have the power you wished to get with your BB7s from the beginning.
    Another point is now to control this power. I've tested a Avid Juicy 7 with Swissstop pads (very strong organic pads) and 203 rotors. This brake had at least the same power as my 160 BB7s. But it was more difficult to modulate, because the power "explodes" within a very short lever range. With the mechanical brake however the range at the lever is wider because of the cable stretch, and you can enforce this with the speed dial turned fully counterclockwise and the pads very close to the rotor to get an early beginning of the braking. What settings do you use?

  6. #6
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    My Ti levers are set to Modulation not power. The pads are about 4-5 clicks out because the rotors seem to go out of alignment very easy and have a slight wobble. I trued them 2 times very well and once just good enough to get me going. Once they are trued I can start with 2 clicks out and then it grows. Within 10-15 miles they are out of true again. I wanted to get new rotors but wasn't really into spending $100 on new rotors. It seems that my 160mm rotor is doing much better than my 185mm. So i want to get new pads and rotors when they are worn out.

    The stock avid pads were horrible and crumbled right out of the box, further I couldn't get the power down, now with the KoolStop pads (metallic not sintered) i have good power but especially in the front I can't really modulate very well and on the trail in hairy situations I tend to only use the rear and completely disregard the front because of its power.

    I think I need just stronger rotors and was thinking of the Alligator serrated rotors with the coating (cheap and seems to have an overall good review). At this moment I just need a front rotor that stays straight. In regards to the pads i was thinking of going with Hard Ceramic Pads once these are done. I looked at several different brands but that all looks the same to me. I don't want to throw my pads away if they are still good.

    With the dime method I think mine have at least another 500-800 miles left.

    P.S.: My wheels have been trued several times and the rotors have been reinstalled after trueing to elimiate any outside influence on the rotor. Maybe I just got a bad rotor in the front.

  7. #7
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    premature pad wear can be stopped by

    Hey Ho rider, your pads will last longer and the braking be better when the rotors are running true. the best tool on the market to keeping them true is the morningstar drumstix set. and they also make a dial indicator that tells you where and how much to realign the pancake. morningstartools.com ask 'em questions.
    good luck and have fun. D.F.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by daleksic
    My Ti levers are set to Modulation not power. The pads are about 4-5 clicks out because the rotors seem to go out of alignment very easy and have a slight wobble. I trued them 2 times very well and once just good enough to get me going. Once they are trued I can start with 2 clicks out and then it grows. Within 10-15 miles they are out of true again. I wanted to get new rotors but wasn't really into spending $100 on new rotors. It seems that my 160mm rotor is doing much better than my 185mm. So i want to get new pads and rotors when they are worn out.

    The stock avid pads were horrible and crumbled right out of the box, further I couldn't get the power down, now with the KoolStop pads (metallic not sintered) i have good power but especially in the front I can't really modulate very well and on the trail in hairy situations I tend to only use the rear and completely disregard the front because of its power.

    I think I need just stronger rotors and was thinking of the Alligator serrated rotors with the coating (cheap and seems to have an overall good review). At this moment I just need a front rotor that stays straight. In regards to the pads i was thinking of going with Hard Ceramic Pads once these are done. I looked at several different brands but that all looks the same to me. I don't want to throw my pads away if they are still good.

    With the dime method I think mine have at least another 500-800 miles left.

    P.S.: My wheels have been trued several times and the rotors have been reinstalled after trueing to elimiate any outside influence on the rotor. Maybe I just got a bad rotor in the front.
    Stock pads crumbled? Did you get a replacement set?

    Metallic and sintered pads are the same thing.

    Truing your wheels has absolutely nothing to do with the rotors or their mounts.

    I'd check your setup again before replacing rotors.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  9. #9
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    it is easy to keep rotor true with the correct tools

    morningstartools.com for the best on the market- check out the fix it section of utahmountainbike.com for truing rotors

  10. #10
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    9 months?!!!!! Holy cr*p, in the UK I've been through two sets of pads in one ride! At a recent 12hr enduro I went through 6 pairs. The winning pairs team did 16 laps and went through 16 sets of pads.

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