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  1. #1
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    Brake Fluid on Pads..

    A while back I got some brake fluid on my brake pads and magura said that once that happens the pads are automatically bad and must be replaced, is this true? I mean I understand that oil acts as a lubricant but can't you clean off the pads so that you can use them again? What about alcohol?

  2. #2
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    that is true (especially in the organic pads magura usually use), since it is very hard to get the contaminant out by heating (usual way of getting it out), you can try to clean them out and sand them and could succeed, but the safest bet is new pads...

  3. #3
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    hell no!

    i "contaminated" my magura pads lots of time, and they are vary easy to clean.
    you put them in alcohol 96% (no such thing as to much), and light them up. when the fire is out and they are very hot pore water at them. then you put them in place and go for a test drive.
    if the brake feels weak, you descent for about a 100 yards squeezing the brake (pedal hard against the brake). then stop, and pore water on the caliper and disk - the more the better.
    if the brake is hot enough, you will hear the water boils - this is good.
    after this they will perform much better then before.

    if for some reason the brakes seem week, you do the second part, and it will usually solve the problem. im guessing the pads absorb dust from the trail, and gradually become dirty. the heating and the water cleans them up.

  4. #4
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    Pour water on a hot rotor. Brilliant! Let's see how unevenly we can cool the rotor, comeon warping!

  5. #5
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    Pads havea tissue that soaks up fluids . It has millions of microscopic and macroscopic holes and vents so if a fluid contacts the surface itll find its way through the pad .
    Once i had the same problem . I filled ' burned ' sand papered ' boiled and ... the pads and the last solution was my wallet for a new pair.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Pour water on a hot rotor. Brilliant! Let's see how unevenly we can cool the rotor, comeon warping!
    Who doesn't like a good warped rotor? Nothing like getting ABS on a car or bike with out having to pay for it!

  7. #7
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    warping the disc!!?

    its less then 200 degrees Celsius, nothing would happen to it.
    i did this several times, it worked every time.
    its not like you have anything to lose, all the others guys say you should replace the pads. save the money.
    this isnt rocket science, just dirty pads

  8. #8
    SLX
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    Not sure about magura pads but with metalic you can flame them (less than 400 deg c) and burn off the oils.

    with pads out of the caliper...

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    are you not paying attention?

    i said i did this with magura pads. regular resin pads. and i didnt use alcohol, i used butane burner, which is around 1100 celcius. they do smoke a bit, but they dont burn.
    using alcohol wouldnt get them hot enough to damage them.

  10. #10
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    Yeah the front brakes definately work but they won't lockup now which actually worries me a bit.. Would the normal wear of the brakes make the oil that got on the brakes go away or are they still bad? I mean I can slow myself down with these brakes but they're definately not as strong as the rear.. I'm thinking of switching the pads with the rear cause the last thing I need is the rear locking up right? Or is preventing the front from locking up better? I mean sure I don't want to go over the handle bars but I feel like I've lost some braking power by not being able to lock them up.

  11. #11
    POG
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    I've only had the dreaded contaminated pads once (so far). I tried the "cook them in the oven" approach and it made the brakes work a little better but I could never get them back to normal. I wish the pads didn't cost so doggone much! I also wish they lasted longer whether contaminated or not. I seem to wear out pads quickly - probably has something to do with my large carcass.

  12. #12
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    If I have my full weight on my brakes, shouldn't they be able to lock up? I just realized both my front and rear CAN'T lockup... For example I'm in my house, on the staircase with my bike and I'm facing UP and the rear tire on the edge of the step. I tried locking up the rear tire with the brake trying to hold it it, the rotor continued to move, albiet slowly but it couldn't keep me in place at ALL.

    Would this be due to the type of brake system I have or the quality of the pads? cause the rear tires I'm pretty certain aren't contaminated at ALL so I don't know why they're performing like the front..

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    its less then 200 degrees Celsius, nothing would happen to it.
    i did this several times, it worked every time.
    its not like you have anything to lose, all the others guys say you should replace the pads. save the money.
    this isnt rocket science, just dirty pads
    If that's the case, why does Galfer spend so much time figuring out how to prevent rotors from warping? Rotors DO warp. And splashing cold water on hot rotors certainly is not good for them.

    Yes, you can clean pads, but they will never be 100% again. And splashing water on hot pads and rotors is pretty pointless if you've already gone to the trouble of heating, washing, and sanding them.

  14. #14
    POG
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    Quote Originally Posted by imzjustplayin
    If I have my full weight on my brakes, shouldn't they be able to lock up? I just realized both my front and rear CAN'T lockup... For example I'm in my house, on the staircase with my bike and I'm facing UP and the rear tire on the edge of the step. I tried locking up the rear tire with the brake trying to hold it it, the rotor continued to move, albiet slowly but it couldn't keep me in place at ALL.

    Would this be due to the type of brake system I have or the quality of the pads? cause the rear tires I'm pretty certain aren't contaminated at ALL so I don't know why they're performing like the front..
    You probably should be able to lock them up but I always try to avoid locking up so I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure my rear will lock in a hard stop with my weight shifted forward.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    If that's the case, why does Galfer spend so much time figuring out how to prevent rotors from warping? Rotors DO warp. And splashing cold water on hot rotors certainly is not good for them.

    Yes, you can clean pads, but they will never be 100% again. And splashing water on hot pads and rotors is pretty pointless if you've already gone to the trouble of heating, washing, and sanding them.
    did you ever warp a rotor? ever seen a warped rotor?
    after i burn the pads, the oil is gone. but they are still weak - maybe the surface changes or something. like one of the guys said, the brake wouldnt lock.
    thats why i install them, heat them on a long descent, and pour water at them. after that they bite, and lock, and work great.
    im pretty sure the warping disc is an urban myth.

  16. #16
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    did you ever warp a rotor? ever seen a warped rotor?
    after i burn the pads, the oil is gone. but they are still weak - maybe the surface changes or something. like one of the guys said, the brake wouldnt lock.
    thats why i install them, heat them on a long descent, and pour water at them. after that they bite, and lock, and work great.
    im pretty sure the warping disc is an urban myth.
    you've never had a rotor that rubs only in one spot while it doesn't everywhere else? that's a warped rotor...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    did you ever warp a rotor? ever seen a warped rotor?
    after i burn the pads, the oil is gone. but they are still weak - maybe the surface changes or something. like one of the guys said, the brake wouldnt lock.
    thats why i install them, heat them on a long descent, and pour water at them. after that they bite, and lock, and work great.
    im pretty sure the warping disc is an urban myth.
    Yes, and yes. I've seen rotors warped out of the packaging. dogonfr had a Galfer rotor that would warp whenever it heated up, but would warp back after cooling. It had to do with the memory of the steel they used. I used to run dual 203mm rotors. I ditched em, went 160/140. Apparently I thought my dirtjump bike was an all-out DH monster. Didn't take long for that rear rotor to go all wacky. Went back to 160/160.

    If there are no such things as warped rotors, why are there tools to fix a problem that doesn't exist? Why is this myth addressed in disc brake FAQ?

    A bike rotor can warp for the exact same reasons that a car rotor can warp. And don't even try to tell me that car rotors don't warp.

    You let them bed. No need to spray with water.

    Again, there is no way to clean pads 100% after being contaminated.

    And if you just need to clean crap off your pads or de-glaze them, a little bit of sandpaper goes a long way.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Again, there is no way to clean pads 100% after being contaminated.

    And if you just need to clean crap off your pads or de-glaze them, a little bit of sandpaper goes a long way.
    it is possible to clean the pads 100%, the way i described it. and the sandpaper isnt that good.

    if you have seen warped discs, then i guess youre right. i havent, and the heating/cooling with water didnt make my disc warp. i did that to a magura louise fr, and two magura julie brake sets, and all three worked great.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by POG
    You probably should be able to lock them up but I always try to avoid locking up so I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure my rear will lock in a hard stop with my weight shifted forward.
    Yeah it definately locks up with weight shifted forward but then the front won't lock, with the weight shifted backwards, can you lock your brakes? I want the ability to lock my brakes because then I don't feel like I'm being starved of braking power or what not.

  20. #20
    POG
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    Quote Originally Posted by imzjustplayin
    Yeah it definately locks up with weight shifted forward but then the front won't lock, with the weight shifted backwards, can you lock your brakes? I want the ability to lock my brakes because then I don't feel like I'm being starved of braking power or what not.
    I'm pretty sure they will lock if I squeeze them hard enough both front and rear.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    it is possible to clean the pads 100%, the way i described it. and the sandpaper isnt that good.

    if you have seen warped discs, then i guess youre right. i havent, and the heating/cooling with water didnt make my disc warp. i did that to a magura louise fr, and two magura julie brake sets, and all three worked great.
    What? Are you a computer that can measure brake torque or contaminants in parts per million? Once a pad has been contaminated, you can not remove that contaminant from every single pore.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    What? Are you a computer that can measure brake torque or contaminants in parts per million? Once a pad has been contaminated, you can not remove that contaminant from every single pore.
    pore shmore
    i know my bike, dont you?
    and im telling you, it feels the same as before. is it really that hard to believe that you can clean pads? its only oil, for christs sake.

  23. #23
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    Feel is not an accurate measure. I said they can not be restored to 100%. I did not say that they could not be salvaged.

    Yeah, it's oil on a POROUS SURFACE.

    It's time to stop talking because you obviously have no clue.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Feel is not an accurate measure. I said they can not be restored to 100%. I did not say that they could not be salvaged.

    Yeah, it's oil on a POROUS SURFACE.

    It's time to stop talking because you obviously have no clue.
    man, you really are full of yourself, arent you?

    i know magura brakes better then most people. i fixed an 04 louise that the National Distributor, and four other guys couldnt.

    you may have been into bikes longer than me, but you are dumbass if you discard other peoples experience just because you think youre right.

    we all have something to learn from others

    ps

    my three year old braked with the oily pads work terrific

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by brake jack
    man, you really are full of yourself, arent you?

    i know magura brakes better then most people. i fixed an 04 louise that the National Distributor, and four other guys couldnt.

    you may have been into bikes longer than me, but you are dumbass if you discard other peoples experience just because you think youre right.

    we all have something to learn from others

    ps

    my three year old braked with the oily pads work terrific
    I did not discard your experience. I said that pads CAN NOT be restored to 100%. And feel is not a gauge. Can your feeling measure brake torque accurately? I don't think so. Can your senses detect contaminants in parts per million? Can you tell if burning has changed the makeup or characteristics of the pad? It might FEEL the same to you, but calibrated tools might show otherwise. I did say they can be salvaged. But being salvaged is far from being 100%.

    If anything, you're the one full of yourself. Congratulations, you know how to torch pads. Yes, it can help salvage pads. No, it does not make them 100% new again. I don't know how many times I have to reiterate myself. I'm thrilled they work for you. It does not work for everyone or all the time.

    You were so set on the idea that rotors don't warp. Well, obviously they do. In that instance, you were wrong. You aren't completely incorrect about torching pads, but you are far from omniscient.

    I've fixed all sorts of things that other's have written off. I have 3 Minutes that Manitou sent us replacements for, but decided they didn't know what was wrong with them. I've fixed each one and loan them out to buddies. I've worked at several shops over the past 4 years. I have a loyal group of customers. I've offered plenty of good advice and tips on these forums since I've joined. In fact, some of these members are indeed my customers.

    I believe that post is a direct flame, and is against the rules and guidelines set forth by MTBR.

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