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  1. #1
    Racer
    Reputation: metalMTB's Avatar
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    Sep 2005
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    bleeding avid codes

    I bled my codes today about 4 times and it's a perfect bleed. They feel a tad bit better than out of the box. The problem is when I turn the pad adjustment knob to the firmest position the lever still moves about 3/8 of its total travel before it contacts the rotor. Is there a trick I can do in the bleeding process so that the pads will engage quicker? I bled the brakes at the firmest position as the manual says (out, counterclockwise). If i did it all the way in would it make a difference maybe? Btw, these brakes have amazing power. 1 finger stoppies, 230 pounds, pads not even broken in yet...

  2. #2
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
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    There isn't much you can do. The Codes are an "open" system, like most brakes. This means that the bake line is open to exchange fluid with the reservoir when you release the lever. Unless you totally overpressurize the system so the reservoir membrane is turgid and can't take up more fluid, then you will basically always end up with the same contact point. There may be some mechanical modification you can make to the adjustment knob to eat up some play. I think this may prove to be pretty difficult though.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: psunuc's Avatar
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    I have tried the same thing with my new Juicy's. I like the lever to bite ASAP. So I did 2 or 3 bleeds and both levers feel very firm when they contact, but it still takes ~0.5 inch for them to contact the rotors.

    I have learned that you just need to adjust to the levers traveling this far. You can make the lever travel less and less by adjusting the contact knob but soon your pads will be dragging on your rotors.

    My pads are about 1.5mm from my rotors and I think it is as close as I can get without that annoying rattle of the rotors hitting the pads. Good luck though.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
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    I bleed mine with the contact knob in a couple of turns and it completely fixed the reach problem.
    Been workin' on bike's since I was 14. I'm 25 now and still don't know everything.

  5. #5
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    Contact knob does not affect the position of the pads.

    You can intentionally overfill the system by having the knob a couple turns from out. But don't overdo it. If the system cannot compensate for fluid expansion after heating up, then it will push those pistons out and either drag or lock up those brakes. This can be remedied by bleeding out a little fluid from the lever. You've just got to find a nice compromise.

    It is true that the Codes run a little closer to the bars.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Contact knob does not affect the position of the pads.

    You can intentionally overfill the system by having the knob a couple turns from out. But don't overdo it. If the system cannot compensate for fluid expansion after heating up, then it will push those pistons out and either drag or lock up those brakes. This can be remedied by bleeding out a little fluid from the lever. You've just got to find a nice compromise.

    It is true that the Codes run a little closer to the bars.
    Agreed, I wouldn't turn out the knob more that a few full turns. I am sure when I did mine that It was probably a MAX of 3 full turns from all the way out.
    Been workin' on bike's since I was 14. I'm 25 now and still don't know everything.

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