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  1. #1
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    BB7 'Road' brakes on a MTB?

    Is that ok? I just picked up a new set of BB7's for realy cheap and being a newb didnt know there was a difference between the road and MTB models. Can the "Road" BB7's be used on an MTB? Is there a major difference between the two or any drawbacks for using them on an MTB. I installed the rear yesterday and rode with it and it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys!
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  2. #2
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    I use them, they work fine. I just grabbed them off the shelf of the shop one day and didnt even notice they said road untill i had been running them for about 3 months. Im not sure of the difference.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdotbat
    Is that ok? I just picked up a new set of BB7's for realy cheap and being a newb didnt know there was a difference between the road and MTB models. Can the "Road" BB7's be used on an MTB? Is there a major difference between the two or any drawbacks for using them on an MTB. I installed the rear yesterday and rode with it and it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys!
    The Road caliper uses a short cable pull. If used with long pull mtb levers (all current levers) the braking effort will be higher, but still work.
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    Thanks for the replies guys. The brakes came with something called an 'In-Line Barrel Adjuster', I guess its used to remove cable slack. Do you think installing this will help the problem with the longer pull levers?
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdotbat
    Thanks for the replies guys. The brakes came with something called an 'In-Line Barrel Adjuster', I guess its used to remove cable slack. Do you think installing this will help the problem with the longer pull levers?
    No, most road bikes don't have an adjuster on the brake lever its on the brake itself so this is why you would need an in-line one when going to disc.

  6. #6
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    Yea what he said. MTB levers have adjusters.

    i didnt use it

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoilerUp
    Yea what he said. MTB levers have adjusters.

    i didnt use it
    They still feel ok, even with the longer pull?
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdotbat
    They still feel ok, even with the longer pull?
    The brakes will be less powerful with the long-pull levers. It will take more hand effort for the same braking force.
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  9. #9
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    If you can source a pair levers designed for traditional cantilever brakes, you won't have to worry about it.
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  10. #10
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    i got a pair of bbdbs for pretty cheap, but one of them turned out to be a road caliper. I was planning on just installing that on the rear and the mountain one on the front, i figured that would kind of compensate for the rear feeling squishy, and because i don't use the rear all that much anyway. Good plan?

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    Wouldn't the opposite be true? ie it would feel like you are having an effective shorter pull?

    this is why you have trouble running v brakes w/road levers on a cx bike. the levers are meant to be short pull but the brakes are long pull. The result is not enough cable is pulled to active the brakes necessitating a rollamajig or some sort of leverage modifier

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrod22
    i got a pair of bbdbs for pretty cheap, but one of them turned out to be a road caliper. I was planning on just installing that on the rear and the mountain one on the front, i figured that would kind of compensate for the rear feeling squishy, and because i don't use the rear all that much anyway. Good plan?
    I would not do it, but try it is you must.

    "Squishy" feeling is either because of poor installation or high mechanical advantage. The former will have little power, the latter lots of power but a soft feel.

    A road caliper with V-lever usually is poor power with a firm feel.
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  13. #13
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    sorry, by squishy i meant how you can't get the front and rear brakes to feel exactly the same because theres so much more cable going to the back. I don't really have a choice in whether or not to do it, unless i were to buy a new caliper. I've got speed dials so i should be able to get it to feel fine, and about power, i almost look at that as a positive as it won't lock up the rear wheel. I don't weigh much and i don't downhill, so i'm sure it'll be fine.

  14. #14
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    You could also sell the BB7 roads to me, and buy Mountain calipers.... PM if interested!

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    Update: They seem to be working fine for me, still breaking them in. I got a new pair of AVID Speed Dial 7 Levers and they seem to work pretty good with the BB7 roads.

    Sorry ahilliard, I dont think I could find a pair of MTB BB7's for the same price I found these.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan0930
    Wouldn't the opposite be true? ie it would feel like you are having an effective shorter pull?
    Yeah, what he said. V-brake levers pull more cable, but the caliper itself requires less cable travel to achieve the same amount of pad movement. Using a Speed Dial lever would allow you to adjust for power/modulation as usual...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdotbat
    Update: They seem to be working fine for me, still breaking them in. I got a new pair of AVID Speed Dial 7 Levers and they seem to work pretty good with the BB7 roads.

    Sorry ahilliard, I dont think I could find a pair of MTB BB7's for the same price I found these.
    Turn the speed dial knobs until they are all the way in. This is make them have a cable pull closer to that of a canti(road) lever.

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