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Thread: bb5 or bb7

  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    bb5 or bb7

    I'm thinking of upgrading to Avid disc's. The bb5 seems simpler to install and adjust.
    Any opinions?
    Also when I switch to winter wheels and studded tires, will I need to readjust the brakes?

  2. #2
    Meh.
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    They're both the same to install. The BB7s are actually simpler to adjust.

    If the winter wheels have the same hub, you may not need to, but otherwise you likely will. It takes all of a couple minutes, so it shouldn't be a big concern.

    Tires will not influence the brakes.

  3. #3
    neutiquam erro
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    I've only ridden BB7s, and while they may seem more complicated because they can adjust the pads from both the inboard and outboard side (BB5 can only adjust from the outboard side), that feature makes them easy to stay dialed in once you have them set up. I, for one, like the increased adjustability BB7s offer over BB5s. Go for the BB7s

    I think most people here on MTBR will agree that there is no better mechanical disc brake system than the BB7. It's a time-tested design that works incredibly well.

    You shouldn't have to readjust the brakes when you swap tires. Some folks have issues with the disc alignment any time they remove a wheel - there are lock-nuts you can use with your QR skewer if you have those issues (to make sure left-right position of the wheel is always the same on its axle).

    Cheers, Chris

  4. #4
    Meh.
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    BB5 only has the inboard (static pad) knob. You adjust the position of the outboard (dynamic pad) via cable tension.

    The BB7 also uses a pad that is easier to find, and the performance seems to be a little better.

    He is not just talking about swapping tires, but by the sounds of it, different wheels completely.

  5. #5
    neutiquam erro
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    Yep, my bad. I didn't look at the BB5 directions close enough when I was running my yap-trap - my point was just that the BB7s have better/easier adjustability, and I should've stopped there instead of puking out inaccurate info. Thanks for the clarification Will.

    Cheers, Chris

  6. #6
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    Yes guys, I switch out the whole rim set to my studded tires. They are different wheels with different hubs. Will the rotors line up to the point where I won't have to adjust the brakes?

  7. #7
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    I doubt it. Different manufacturers produce to varying tolerances of the International Standard.

    You may be able to get it close with rotor shims and what not.

    It's literally a 2 minute adjustment. Don't let it concern you. Even with rim brakes, unless you have the same rims, you usually have to adjust the brakes as well.

  8. #8
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    I forgot to ask, will the disc brake conversion make brake require less lever pressure to stop?
    Sometimes after a long ride, my forearms are tired from applying the brake. Increased brake pressure atthe rotor from the same amount of lever pressure would be good.i.e. increased mechanical force?

  9. #9
    Meh.
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    Depends on how you brake, where you're braking, how the brakes are setup, pad compound, rotor size, etc. Don't set up the brakes so that they engage instantly. Have the contact point be about half-way through the throw. You'll have more leverage this way.

    The brakes will not perform well when brand new. They need to be bedded in, just like on a car.

    Some people will say that discs provide a greater mechanical advantage, others will say just the opposite. Sometimes the comparisons are unfair. For instance, XTR v-brakes are going to perform better than Tektro discs. IMO, the beauty of discs is modulation, consistent braking, and independent from the rim.

    Hydraulics will usually have more power.

  10. #10
    Tech geek and racerboy
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    Discs usually give better braking in nasty conditions than rim brakes (again, depending on pad type and setup), resulting in less arm-pump. Disc brakes need about 20-40 stops before they reach full power, although you will see a huge increase even in just a few hard stops.
    A hardtail is forever

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